Posts by RalphJr

OK call me crazy....but where's the choke cable hole?

Appears to be missing or at least isn't where I think it should be.

Is it just me or does this car look familiar?

Seems like we say one exactly like this a year ago with a questionsable door tag and fendor stamp.

When questioned about it the owner at that time started doing the back stroke!

Am I crazy or does anyone else remeber this?

Regardless I'd check the car over very carefully.

Got mine this afternoon - AWESOME.

Great job guys!

I agree - it is very likely Ford had only 2 body buck build instructions to keep things simple. "Sheet metal unibody assembly instructions"

1 - Regular cars - single exhaust - standard 8" rear end and round axle plate - no seat or tail pipe reinforcements

2 - HIPO "K" or "A" code GT cars - dual exhaust reinforcements - curved heavy duty 9" axle plate - which would work OK for the 8" A code GT cars too.

This is also what the photo documentation to date supports.

Thanks for the great comments guys - I appreciate it.

I don't have a real love for eBay or the monkey business going on with the parts I see there - bad for the hobby IMHO.

I'm sorry to report I sold the intake this week, but it did go to another HiPo member who had asked about it several months ago.

So as promised it went to a good home.

Several of my hot rod buddies use DOT5 in their cars and I plan on using it when my HiPo is done. They swear by it.

Spongy pedal is caused by trapped air - some guys had to bleed the system 3 or 4 times to get all the air out.

DOT3 fluid will draw moisture and this is why it turns black - I think it is called "hydroscopic".

It is a 4BBL intake - same one was used on all 4BBL cars including the HiPo.

It is the earlier C4 casting with small temp sending unit hole - correct for a 64 1/2.

Originally came from a '64 Fairlane.

It is in a box in the basement & I'm not in a hurry to sell.

I'd rather sell it to a good home than eBay. Shipping will be the big issue - probably $40-$50.

Let me know whne you can afford it and I'll make you a deal on it since I have no use for it.

I have an early '64 (Jan) 4bbl intake if you are interested.

As a side note I've seen race car and hot rod builders use a magnetic angle measurement tool to check the tranny and pinion angles - remember you can even screw up the driveshaft angle with the pinion/rearend too.

I think Sears or the Home Depots of the world sell this in their tool department.

Unfortunately I'm not an expert on the angles, but the closer you are to 0° between each one the better I think.

If the engine becomes angled DOWN in the rear - I would expect you could angle UP the pinion to compensate. The ujoints compensate for slight angle differences, but not big ones.

Anybody out there done this???

You could call it a killer - but it appears all the hipo stuff was transfered over. The original owner has passed away, so I'm not sure if anyone knows what happened. All the externally ID-able hipo parts are there and dated correct for the car - the pan will need to be pulled to confirm the crank, caps, and rods. If these parts are there you could find a datecode correct 289 block and be back to original configuration with a little machining.

This car has been discussed here before. I'm only a few miles from the car, know the seller, and have inspected the car. It is very very original and 100% as advertised.

If anyone has questions about the car please send me a private email.

According to the new owner and extensive documentation that came with the car - the original owner put the Shelby items on the car in '66.

The carb datecode supports this.

I too have only seen this Export Brace on original GT350's - but guess that is what you would buy over the counter in '66.

At least the original owner left the stock brace brackets installed on the shock towers - you could return this to original very easily.

I got a chance to look at this car tonight and it is exactly as advertised - it is a very original very solid survivor car.

This would make a great restoration car as it is incredibly original and unmolested. Has the correct dated fan, spacer, shroud, alternaltor w/ correct early "C" pulley, closed emissions Air cleaner bottom (top is repo), HEH T tranny, heads, correct dated balancer, correct dated distributor, motor mounts, original clutch Z bar..........I could go on. It is only missing the original block, exhaust manifolds (has headers), orignal exhaust system, carb, valve covers, intake, radiator, and fuel pump. It has a small letter original Shelby "Cobra" intake, Cobra valve covers, LeMans carb, Export brace, and Monte Carlo bar. It has an original heavy metal even bolt spacing Export Brace (the original fire wall / shock tower pieces are still in place).

The car looks very nice over all and could be a nice show driver "as is" with some elbow grease, good cleaning, and a little TLC - motor sounds solid and started right up. You could do a full restoration on this car easily - it is very very straight and rust free and has no signs of accident damage. The interior is AWESOME for a 40 year old car - it is in very very good shape.

The original Shelby parts are correct period parts NOT newer repops - LeMans carb is a 66 dated original.

I have the VIN and data plate information for anyone interested and could visit the car again if needed.

Send me a private email if you are interested in the car or have any questions.

I don't think this stuff is in the catalog yet - I got a card in the mail about it and I think an ad in MM or another car mag. Might be on their Website - I haven't checked

I bet it is still ACC - their fit is not the best.

Anybody tried the "new" 80-20 carpet from California Mustang?

They say it is molded of a new material that looks just like to correct 80-20, but without the fading and fuzz issues of the original material.

My car "in-progress" - paint is "days" away. 1965 K 2+2 - Raven Black / Red interior.

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BIN @ $1000 ???

He's joking, right ???

Be interesting to see if these sell with that BIN price and a Reserve.

Anyone smell "shell bidding" ???

I guess I'll throw my 2 cents in............This sounds very much like some "Hot Rod" people I have been associated with. Funny how they would argue about "all steel" verses fiberglass rods - then someone came out with repo steel bodies........then they started the "real steel" verses "repo steel" debate - made me sick. Guess what....this will happen soon to the 67-68 Mustang fastback crowd - ala Shelby clones need bodies. Already has been released for the 69 Camaro and just released for the 69 Camaro convert.....Check out this months Hot Rod. Can you image the day when you can buy a full unibody and build anything? Rebuild a total rust bucket? Re-body here we come!!! Image if they do this for the 65-66 fastback. Any old K code VIN will be a mini gold mine for the less than honest crowd.

Having owned an original K for many years, I have had more than my fair share of people telling me my car was fake, not real, etc - most or all wanting to "steal" the car from me hoping I was dumb enough not to know better - FAT CHANCE - took me and my Dad 5 minutes to know what the car was in 1979 when we bought it and what it was worth even then.

As for the debate - build what you love - AND drive it - there are a few people who still drive their Shelbys and they should be praised - I will drive my K even after pumping big money into a resto - that is why they were built.

The next time someone calls your car a fake or comments that it is a clone just ask - "So smart ***, WHERE'S YOURS?" You will be surprised at the reaction/response you get!