Posts by RalphJr

I've never heard this.

I have heard from multiple FoMoCo parts managers and machine shop buddies that these blocks were for TRUCKS and Marine, plus some heavy duty applications - but never as a direct HiPo replacement.

I think all the stories in Hot Rod in the 80's about this heavy duty block have perpetuated this rumor - HiPo's were scarse even then and the Mex302 was readily available. Hot Rod and others commonly mentioned finding one of these blocks "as a repalcement" for the true HiPo block.

OK my 2 cents.

Gary,

Marti has an order form - I think online - where you fill out info on your car and they do the rest.

For 65-66 cars he has to "educated guess" some datecodes if your original tags are missing. Some of mine were - but other dates were available and my tags turned out AWESOME! You will need to give him the build dates or casting dates from your engine parts to get a datecode for the engine tag - look at your block drivers side front - right where the head and block meet - there is an assembly date stamped into a boss on the block for when it was machined and assembled.

I give Marti a 99.9% thumbs up for service and quality - only issue is the blank for my repo door tag is slightly different than the original - printing and font style - but so good I will use it and keep the original in the safe!

Ralph

Ralph

Gary,

I have 1 or 2 extra bell housings if you are interested. I know one has had the pivot point replaced - so you see the replacement screws instead of rivits but it is otherwise in nice shape - I'll have to check the other one. I can also check the dates - but the datecode won't show once the tranny is installed - so a "correct" date is only for your edification.

Send me a private email if you are interested and I can email you some picks.

Ralph

I have collected a few 'stangs over the years - my wife reminds me very frequently that she has NEVER parked in the garage during our 15+ years of marriage. I have a hard time selling them! You can either call it a passion or sickness!

I've had my '65 K since '79 - my first car and paid $3300 for it - I'm in the middle of a restoration now - and I too could not afford to replace it - and my wife is seriously questioning the restoration!!

The '66 A code was pulled from a barn in pieces a year ago for my daughters - it now has a '91 GT EFI AOD restomod setup - imagine what my wife is saying about 2 Mustang projects at once!

Ditto here - I've only seen and heard of NJ cars having buck tags. My '65 K Dearborn car doesn't have one, but my '66 A code NJ built car has one in the proper location - did have correct screw and lack of paint underneath.

Another cool point is that my "A" code car is a very early '66 - and the NJ factory actually used a '65 door tag blank - turned over - to stamp the buck tag - I guess they didn't want to throw them out! I was shocked at first when I took it off seeing what was on the under side!

Wouldn't a Marti Report on this car clear up a lot of this?

VIN looks hand made and rearend looks like a '65-66 8" to me.

No offense taken - re-read my post - that is exactly what I said.

Leather or similar material used in regular pumps - Neoprene in the performance pumps - at least according to the guy in Boston.

This information is partially accurate. Based upon information from a Fuel pump rebuilder / restoration place outside Boston the 260/289 had the same pump numbers (several listed - sorry I didn't write them down) before '65 - but his books that old are limited. The "X" signified a "High Performance" pump - not to be confused with the "K" HiPo. The pumps were quieter, but the main difference was pumped volume and diaphram material type. The regular pumps back then used leather elements - which were easily broken down by racing gas and additives - so they began using the better neoprene elements for racing or performance pumps. Something very common now.

I have a screw together CARbureTER canister "X" pump date J4 and stamped 3908S - this was on my APRIL '65 K when purchased in 1979 - it has the extra spring and lever under the arm (for high RPM operation), but does not have a button top. It also had a FoMoCo rebuild sticker on it at that time. It is now restored and waiting for the remainder of the car.

I'd love to find a correct button top pump - but this one will do and won't cost me a small fortune.

Oh I forgot to add - post some photos if you can - the guys here will help deteremine if it looks legit.

First - buy a copy of Tony's HIPO book. It'll be the best $30 bucks you'll spend.

Verify all 3 stamped Vin#s on the engine compartment inner fenders match - make sure these 3 match the door tag.

If the car was built in NJ (T factory code) it should have a buck tag - confirm this shows HIPO or HIPERF and has the same VIN number.

The only way to 100% confirm a factory GT is with the buck tag showing PI or PIO for Performance Image Option (GT).

Dearborn and San Jose cars don't have this tag - determining a true "factory" GT is a little harder with these cars or a NJ car without the buck tag. There isn't a 100% fool proof way - you just have to look at all the unique GT items to make sure they are there - then look at the special holes for the fog lamp wiring and the switch - do a search on the archives for this - many people have posted good photos of factory holes.

IMPORTANT - confirm that the car has the correct dual exhaust plates under the back seat and in the rear frame rails - PLUS that it has the correct 9" axle plate - a rebody car will have the wrong plate and usually no dual exhasut plates. Again do a search on the archives for good documentation on this.

And finally the block and trans case can have VIN stamps - but Ford did not always stamp every unit. If the block is stamped it will be on the passenger side of the block - just above the oil pan rail below the ground cable bolt flange - you may have to scrape away years of crud and use carb cleaner to see it. The tranny is stamped somewhere on the bottom of the main case - it varies - check the archives again for this.

I hope this helps.

I have inspected this car (so called "HI PO Expert" mentioned in the sales ad - I won't say I'm an expert but I've owned one and researched HiPo289s for over 25 years) and you guys are missing out on a good one here - IMHO. Yes you will pay a little bit more for this car, but it is ALL original and unmolested except for the paint, block, and exhaust - plus you have a ton of original Shelby parts - NOT REPOPS. You guys are passing on a very good original car worth a full restoration - no rust - great trim - and VERY nice original interior. Keep in mind guys that if this was a real Shelby missing the original block a restorer would find a correct dated 289 block and probably stamp it - plus the car would be 5-6 times the price. Besides any 289 block will do provided all the other HiPo bits are there - which I think is likely. And I'm sure the current owner would pull the pan to confirm before a sale. This car is worth more than you guys think based upon the original sheet metal you WON'T have to replace due to rust.

I'm above $20,000 just for paint and body due to rust - so what do you want - a bargin????

MY 2 cents.

I have a restored almost perfect H64 (August) original HiPo fan.

It is too early for my April '65 car - but I'd only be willing to trade it for an almost perfect A65, B65, or C65 fan closer to my build date.

Otherwise I'm afraid I'd scare you with the price - since I'd rather keep this original than hunt for the late date and pay who knows what for it - especially since mine wasn't cheap to start with.

If you can locate one or have an early 65 date fan - I'd be very happy to swap.

5 (1965)

F (June)

4 (4th day of the month)

T (Builders ID code)

Holes look original to me - factory used a hole drill bit and would leave a lip like this - looks like the 3 or 4 factory GT holes I've seen anyway.

Wire is in the correct location in the firewall, but the switch is very low on the dash compared to other cars.

My 2 cents.

Welcome to the site. Looks like a SUPER Nice find. You'll have fun working on this one.

Check your switch wiring - if the lamps are wired off of it without tapping into the main harness that goes to the tail lights then the rear lights the dash lights won't turn on. The switch wiring is made to tap into the main harness to control all 3 when the fog lamp switch is in the ON position, but you can by pass this and just run the lamps. I know 'cause I just added this to my daughters '66 Coupe and made it work right - but didn't have to.

You will find the best group of guys here very willing to help. Just ask.

Hard to say for sure if it is a "factory GT" - does it have disc brakes up front? If it does all I can say is "could be".....but unless you see original holes "filled in" in the fendors for the correct GT badges and MUSTANG letters I'd say someone added the GT stuff at some point - maybe when it was last painted??? Without discs it can't be a factory built GT.

Which version are you looking for - there are 2.

Before April 1st '65 - and after.

The early "C" part number pulley is very hard to find and expensive - mine cost me several hundred $ after looking for 6 months and stumbled on one. The "C" refers to the last letter in the part number stamped into the pulley. On the "C" pulley the number is stamped in a straight line.

The later "H" part number pulley is available almost everywhere and has been repoped for about $50. NOS ones turn up on eBay because they were used on the Boss302 too. the number on the "H" pulley is stamped in a curve.

Most NOS ones are di-chromate anodized (yellow), but for a HiPo they should be painted semi-gloss black.

I did basically the same thing. Glass beaded the can then used a small can of slightly off white (ivory color) from Walmart no less. Looks very good once the decal is applied.

You are probably correct - but I haven't seen that many K cars and looked close enough to confirm.

Welcome Welcome Welcome.

Sounds like you have a great car - definitely keep us posted on the progress.

This is one of the best groups of guys always willing to help - just ask.

Best of luck on your project.

I've seen one of these repops at Mustangs Unlimited.

Rivits are wrong, blade shape is wrong, no weights - and MADE IN CHINA.

IS it worth $100 - not in my opinion - it isn't close enough to my original.

The '80's repops are pretty good - US made by the same compnay that made the originals.

These occasionally show up on ebay for $100-150 - cheaper than originals which now go for $500+ - and that is about what I paid for an original a year ago.

If your budget is a concern - but you want to at least look close this fan will do - but I would check the balance once it is installed to make sure it spins true and won't hurt your water pump bearings.