Posts by RalphJr

  • Timing Chain & Gears

    For a '66 (L8 engine revison or later - this happned sometime in April-May '65) you would only need to order:


    S406T Top Cam Gear w/integrated Hub Stop

    S351 HiPo ONLY Crank Gear

    C358 Chain


    S350 is the EARLY style cam gear.


    Don't want you to buy 2 cam gears - you really only need one!


    Ralph

  • rally pac questions

    Cosemtically they look very nice - and very close to the original - however the clock movement doesn't "click' like the originals and the tach requires a connection directly to the coil unlike the originals I'm told.

  • Timing chain cover for '65 w/ aluminum water pump

    The change happened after March because my MID-March built engine still has the aluminum pump.


    Bob Mannel's Small block Ford book has a TON of photos and casting numbers of the correct timing covers by year and type.


    You can switch to the later style cast iron pump but it won't be exactly correct for an early car - I've seen a ton of people do this - especially if the motor has been swapped out.


    There are 2 on eBay right now for the aluminum pump - please see my response to your other post for the item numbers.

  • Dual Muffler brake line bracket

    Sounds like YET another part is being produced to "cheap" or China quality standards.


    Keep looking around I'm sure you can find a bracket with the correct "D" hole. I do have to say that beyond the "D" hole for the brake line it is just a bent piece of metal with an angle cut on one corner.

  • rally pac questions

    The '65 Rally Pac hoods were never completely chrome from the factory - they were partially painted with the black krinkle paint on the outside just like the body and chrome on the inside.


    The eyebrows are a full chrome part and many guys like the chrome look - so when they restore them they do not repaint them.


    I'm not sure on the factory "Mustang" verses "Ford" in the Tach or the "Rally Pac" verses blank in the center. I have an original '65 high profile "Ford" 8 grand tach with a blank center and will restore it that way - pulled it off a '66 Coupe - so it was probably dealer installed if this helps.


    I also have a picture of a NOS '65 Rally Pac that a vendor had for sale a few years ago - I'll try to pust it tonight.

  • Timing Chain & Gears

    I don't have a digital pic I can post, but if you have Bob Mannel's book see the following pages:


    3-20 Pictures 3B9 a-f for the Early style thick thrust plate, C spacer, thin cam gear, and "clutch head" counter head bolts.


    5-15 Pictures 5B5 a and c for later style thrust plate with hex head bolts and thicker cam gear.


    The C spacer is exactly what it sounds like - there should be a round spacer inside the thrust plate with a notch cut out to clear the cam pin - a "C" washer about 1/4" thick. This spacer seats the cam gear to the cam - this spacer later was just added to the back of the cam gear as a shoulder - but it required the thinner cam thrust plate.


    You can easily replace the earlier style stuff with the later items - I have - I found the thrust plate on an old block at the local machine shop - cost $5 - plus I've seen new ones on eBay. I've even seen the old ones and the C spacer for sale on eBay from time to time.

  • Dual Muffler brake line bracket

    I did the same thing on my daughter's 66 restomod coupe ('91 GT EFI & AOD - with duals).


    I used the NPD bracket and it fit perfect - remove the rear seat - locate the stamped locating ridges in the floor pan - drill 2 small holes in the floor pan - have someone hold the bracket against the pan from the underside (USE GLOVES!)and plug weld it in place from the inside - looks almost factory! You could even bolt it in place if you want.

  • Timing Chain & Gears

    Mark,


    Try this it might help......from my collection of HIPO notes.


    TIMING GEARS – Talked to a Cloyes Engineer this week concerning HiPo timing gear stuff. He was nice enough to call me after I sent an email to the CS Website. Great guy – great support – BUY CLOYES.


    S350 Top Cam Gear w/ C washer (early)

    S406T Top Cam Gear w/integrated Hub Stop (later)

    S351 HiPo ONLY Crank Gear

    C358 Chain


    GEAR HISTORY


    CAM GEARS

    S350 does not have the HUB STOP – you will need the cam “C” spacer and early style cam thrust plate (thicker with weird hour glass head counter sunk head bolts).

    S372T replaced S350 – has HUB STOP molded in – this part was only produced briefly.

    S406T replaced S372T – has HUB STOP molded in and uses 1 pc fuel eccentric (must use the later style thin thrust plate and grade 8 hex bolts).

    S430T can be used with the later 2-piece fuel eccentric and a longer drive pin.


    CRANK GEAR

    HiPo 289 MUST use the S351 if the counterweight is retained – it accommodates the dowel pin for the counterweight. Cloyes still produces this part.


    CHAIN

    C358 is the proper chain number for all the above.


    Cloyes did make a Double Roller set for a HiPo 289 in the late 60’s / early 70’s – PART NUMBER 9-2105 Speed Set


    He also told me the Ford OEM for timing stuff in ’65 was Borg Warner – who actually subcontracted Cloyes to produce the parts. Nice – this is as close to NOS as you can get.

  • Nos 65-67 Mustang/Shelby HI-PO Air Cleaner Element

    Based upon everything I've seen "for sale" from him in the past several years - he lost his marbles a LONG time ago.


    But if someone is willing to pay his prices - Why shouldn't he?


    Supply and demand - right?


    Doesn't really help the hobby IMHO - but this is nothing new - just look at the prices of "some" collector cars and the big shop projects.


    I had to "give" away my restored '68 Cougar for over half what a similar '68 Mustang would have sold for - and they are more expensive to restore and fewer were made. Go figure.

  • Best Mustang Restoration shop??

    You should also check out Mustang Central in Byron, Georgia - just outside Macon - http://www.mustangcentral.com.


    While they do a majority of restomds and customer "request" customization, they are a family owned company with a very loyal customer base - ie repeat customers.


    They have had my K for a while - I'm not rushing them - and all of the metal replacement has been first class. They are doing all of the rust repair and panit inside and out - took them a rolling chassis and getting back the same - I'll do all the rest myself.


    The owner was involved with the DIY channel "Classic Car Restoration" '65 Mustang Restomod restification project.


    http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_dcr/…1_47684,00.html

  • Possible Book Changes Under Investigation

    I think we need to identify what type of documentation or statistics you want to collect for an item so everyone can contribute.


    My mid-April K has the original HEH-T tranny - VIN stamped along the bottom - plus I have the original VIN stamped block.


    I'd be happy to document this for the book authors, but posting everything here might not be the best - from a size and security standpoint - IMHO.

  • HEH-T

    I'll chime in a little on this one too.


    My April '65 K has the original VIN stamped block AND HEH-T Tranny.


    Here is the tranny casing info:


    CASE INFO C5AR-7006-D

    W-1 H264 (upside down)

    TAILSHAFT INFO RF-

    C4DR-7A040A

    L13 W-2


    The parts are early for a March/April car, but there is a VIN stamp - and I've had the car since 1979.


    Obviously from the posts of later cars with this tranny "after the "Ford cut off date" either Ford was using any parts to exhaution - regardless of documentation - or the documentation is just wrong.


    We all know how fast these cars were being built and how frequently Ford made mistakes.


    I for one think - and have thought for many years - that in this case the documentation is just wrong and Ford never realized it and/or fixed it.

  • Hi Fellow K-Code Owners

    Joe,


    WELCOME to the HiPo site.


    I've had my K since '79 - and I wish I could go back and slap the teenager who drove it and raced it - Oh wait that was ME!


    I had a lot of fun, but the car suffered (as does my wallet NOW that I'm having a lot of stuff repaired during my restoration!).


    NICE Motor - it will look nice under the K hood.

  • wanted hex base pcv

    They show up on ebay occasionally.


    I purchased a NOS threaded one for $25.


    The hose connection one (NOS) is harder to find and usually goes for around $75-$100.


    This is why so many people use the threaded one.


    You can search the salvage yards for one - they were used on a ton of old Fords.

  • 5F09K362491 NIR

    The GT and any HiPo HAD a stiffer susspension - IE bigger front sway bar and heavy springs. However, this package did not include the export brace.


    Only GT350s and Export cars received the brace instead of the weld in/bolt in shock tower braces - at least as far as I've seen documented.