I'd try a strap wrench before resorting to the Channel Locks.
You can find them at most places - usually a thick rubber band or cloth strap - I'd try to find a cloth one 'cause it sounds like it is in there good.
You might also want to try it when the engine is hot - if it is stuck due to paint or oil sludge this might free it up a little easier.
I wouldn't attempt it on a rare HiPo carb unless I could set up a fixture in a mill or drill press to make sure everything was true. I NEVER get the drill bit to hold in the center - it always walks - and once it does you're ....... well you know!
I'd let them do it unless you have access to a good machine shop.
The rear brakes had BOTH self adjusting levers and cables - AND the screw adjuster for inital adjustment. In fact the "self" adjusting levers actually move the same screw adjuster from the inside.
Sounds like someone removed or didn't replace the self adjusting parts during the last brake job.
You can buy all these pieces from any Mustang Shop or Auto Parts Store - buy BOTH the spring kit and the self adjusting kit and you'll get what you need.
You need to check the drive line too.
I'd take the driveshaft and have new u-joints put in and a re-balance performed.
While you are under the car check out the transmission mount and rear axle pinion angle.
All of these can cause "at speed" vibration problems too.
Rally pac looks original - but the Tach doesn't look like any original Ford I've seen. It does look like some '60's vintage Sun Tachs I've seen.
Door Tag is definitely a REPO and the car is not a factory 63B Deluxe interior or GT car by the date - these options were not available until Feb or March '65 and the car is dated September '64.
Can't tell for sure if the carb has the choke stop from the picture - if it is not there the carb is a fake.
Someone did a nice job of putting all the details on the car and the added GT and Deluze stuff - just not 100% like it left the factory.
Over-all nice looking car - price is as expected for a dealer, "resale" red, and the "GT - Deluxe interior" adder which isn't accurate for the car but I'm sure the dealer expects.
My pump is dated "H4" - August '64.
I'm not an expert on the Carter codes and I've seen a few different date formats pictured or posted for them, so who knows for sure - but the screw together pumps are earlier and a 3500 number would indicate earlier than the HiPos 3939 and 4201. The date could be later if it was built as a "new" replacement pump before another number replaced it. I'd still bet on the 2K being the year and month - but then again could be 1968, 2nd week of "K" month (October?).
That is an early Carter pump - probably built in 1962 from the date code "8 2". Carter used sequentially increasing numbers as they revised all their pumps - so the higher the number the newer it is. As a reference the HiPos used 3939 and 4201 - so your pump is a few years older. I have a similar pump I'll be using on my HiPo - 3911S - screw together X body pump. Sometimes there is also a number stamped into the steel arm - this will be engine specific for pumps that use the same housing but have different actuation dimensions.
Contact this guy outside Boston - he might be able to help you ID it further - and he has rebuild kits:
Antique Auto Parts Cellar
781) 335-8860
Shelby performed this modification exclusively according to all the documentation I've seen.
Shebly had to EITHER modify the suspension OR modify the engine to run the GT350 in B Production racing - he chose horsepower over handling - therefore he had to put all of the race "SUSPENSION" modifications on the GT350 street cars so the race cars could have more under the hood.
Shelby did pick up the Export Brace from Ford, but that is about it - the A-arm mods, Monte Carlo bar, over ride traction bar, Bill Stroppe 1" front sway bar, and axle limit cables were all cooked up by Shelby's development team on 2 COUPE development mule cars provided by Ford. He even limited the A-arm relocation to 1" MAX because going any lower would have risked broken upper ball joints.
EVERYONE really should read the thread regarding this.
289route66 -- I don't happen to agree with you - but you are entitled to your opinion.
I still would caution anyone considering doing this to have a GOOD LAWYER - I've yet to see a single rebody that didn't change hands and the "truth" get lost somewhere/somehow.
Just like the owners who list "original" HiPo carbs that are fake remakes from Pony Carbs or all the "TRUE FACTORY" GTs and Pony interior cars from "early" 1965 before Ford ever offered these options on eBay all the time.
Someone will always end up with a car worth far less than they paid - thinking they have a great original car only to find out it is something not "as original" as advertized - finding out too late what they have bought - and want their money back.
SAAC started their Shelby data collection a long time ago and only share VINs and car data with verified owners - plus they list known wrecked or destroyed cars - WHY would they do this except to protect the value of exisiting cars and prevent FAKES or Rebodies.
Honestly I've never seen one of the clutch arms with the offset hole in question.
I've only seen the "replacement style" with the hole in the center - I've also never needed to replace this part - only the bell housing or the pivot.
Maybe a member here with access to Ford documentation can look up this part and determine when and if it changed - there should be some revision history out there for the clutch arm.
I've had at least a dozen 6 bolt bell housing assemblies over the years and ALL had the center spring hole style end. I have one restored now with an original pivot in place with a '65 date code that will go back on my '65 K - and it has the center hole style arm - everything looks original, so I don't beleive the arm has been replaced.
FYI - there is a 5 bolt bell housing, clutch, & flywheel on eBay right now - and it has the offset stykle arm discussed in this thread.
Could this be a running change or part of the 5 bolt to 6 bolt design changes???? Could this have happened in the late '64 to early '65 time frame???
I would say he didn't like our responses - but maybe he had already come to the same conclusion - just didn't like hearing it from others.
I re-read my post and it was agressive - intentionally so - I've had a real K - with original drive line since 1979 - and I value the car almost as much as my life and anyone "faking" or swapping K VINs potentially LOWERS the value of my car - I grew up with this car and now I'm sinking big money into it to bring it back to life - the right way - restoring what I have - NOT swapping all the pieces onto another rust free 2+2 to save time and money.
I've never been burned by a VIN swap, but know someone who has.
I also had a rather unpleasent incident witha Georgia "Resto" Car Dealer selling a potential "rebody K" - when I brought it to his attention he threatened legal action.
I kringe EVERY time I see this done or hear of someone suggesting a "VIN SWAP" - to me it is just wrong - regardless of the intention or purpose someone always seems to get burned in the end. The laws maybe a little vague on this issue state to state, but I think this was the intent of the "SALVAGE" titles most states use now. The fact that the original Mustang guy saved the VIN and title - without getting it labeled "SALVAGE" - which is what it was - started this whole thing - why save it if it wasn't "WORTH SOMETHING"??? This is why the whole thing smells bad to me - making something worth "MORE" out of something it is not.
DYNACORN bodies come with a DYNACORN VIN - NOT A FoMoCo VIN - so this is NOT the same thing. They are sold as "NEW" bodies and must be registered and tagged as such - using the DYNACORN VIN - NOT an original Ford VIN. Plus, I've read that the Dynacorn bodies will have additional VIN stamp locations verses an original Ford body.
It will be ILLEGAL to modify the DYNACORN VIN just like it is ILLEGAL to modify an original FoMoCo VIN.
What you are suggesting is FRAUD - check with ANY COP or DMV. You can go to JAIL for this.
You are taking an existing car VIN and replacing it with one that no longer exists - to increase it's value or rarity. THIS IS FRAUD.
I wonder WHY this doesn't sound WRONG to you.
Vehicle VIN manipulation is a serious crime.
I think I speak for most if not ALL of the folks here at the HiPo site that what you are suggesting is WRONG and illegal. Just ask a few of the members who have purchased "re-bodied" cars - I think you will be surprised by their reaction to what you are suggesting.
There are many free picture hosting sites on the web - search Yahoo or Google and you will find them.
Once you post the photo to the "host" site it will have an "ID" or address - this is what you need to put into the HiPo site like this:
(img)your image address here(/img)
NOTE: you need to change from parenthesis to square brackets - I had to do this to get it to show up and not think I was posting a picture.
Most of the hosting sites I've used acutally give you this complete address once you post the picture or ask you how you will be using it or linking to it in the future - then give a list of different formats for linking to the picture - like in another website.
Be sure to resize the picture if it is a large format - you can download a Windows image resizer program for free from Microsoft that works great. I usually make the pictures 640x480 or 800x600 max and they show up great. Resize them, post them to a Web host site, then put the picture address into the HiPo site as outlined above - that is all there is to it.
I don't see the fog light switch hole on the lower left hand side of the dash, but YES it is definitely stamped for the 5 dial instrument cluster - so it is very likely a FACTORY GT - I have seen a couple '65 factory GTs with the switch down by the choke cable - in fact I have a picture of this. If you look at picture 17 (inside firewall area under the dash from the driver side door) you will see the holes cut for AC lines in the middle of the firewall - definite HACK JOB but easily fixed - look to the left in this picture and locate where the square headlight harness goes thru the firewall - there are 2 round holes one above and one below the square headlight wiring opening - the upper is for the washer wiring and the lower is for the foglight wiring. Not sure why the hole is missing in the rad support - the other normal AC holes are also missing - maybe someone had an aftermarket AC system installed - this might explain the big hole on the PS of the rad support.
WOW - it still has the drip rail moldings!
These things are GOLD PLATED - finding a good set is impossible.
Look to be just about the only pieces still on the car.
Need to see the rear axle plate to be sure, but looks like a legit K body - not sure on the true "GT" status - fog light wiring holes in rad support are missing on DS side and PS has a BIG hole!
I had a similar paint marking on the inside of my firewall. Red or orange "HP" applied with a brush.
I also talked to the owner of a very EARLY '64 1/2 HiPo convertable at a MCA show in Tulsa, Oklahoma back in the late 80's - he had photos of this exact marking on his Conv. - it was also in the trunk like yours.
Good luck on your project!
Marv,
You can count me in.
Ralph
