Couldn't the rust holes be filled in with high temp epoxy - then filed flat. I guess it depends upon where the rust holes are.
Or for that matter - check with a really good welder - I'd bet you can build up the holes above the surface with a TIG - then lightly surface it to bring it back true.
3 - 1963
E - 5th month May
28 - 28th day
H - builders code
Autokrafters sells these - they are not 100% accurate, but very close.
Way better than the plastic clips.
I'm not sure anyone knows for sure.
Here is what I've heard and read posted multiple times:
The "MUSTANG" version was used on the Mustangs from the factory.
The "FORD" version was the FoMoCo over the counter part and could be used on several models - Falcon, Fairlane, and Mustang.
I have a photo of a NOS kit with a "FORD" tach.
My original "FORD" tach Rally Pac came from a '66 Coupe - Pac was dealer installed, but has a Dec '64 date stamp.
Keep in mind that Ford could have used either one from the factory depending upon supply available at the time of assembly - so who knows for sure???
I tried to send you an email but it bounced back.
I have a set I took off a very early '66 A code coupe (they are the '65 style mounts - Ford didn't change right away) - I have all of the critical pieces, but the rubber mounts are gone I think - I'll have to check.
Make me an offer.
Glad I could help!
Yes getting OLD and Forgetful is.......what was I saying?
The head casting number is on the underside in the lifter valley - I'm not sure if you can see it when the heads are on the block. You might try a mirror to see if it is visible.
I definitely recommend getting a copy of Bob Mannell's book - worth every penny - he shows this detail and 10,000 more at least!
Bo is correct - this is the early style air cleaner lid - only correct for early 64 1/2 HiPos.
This lid was also used on the Cobra, 63-64 Fairlanes, and some full size Galaxy big block cars.
I'll bet he gets well over $1000 for it, but not sure it will reach $2500 - it will be interesting to see how high it goes.
From the outside and what you would see in the photo they are virtually identical.
The photo does show the "early" completely close valve covers and the vent tube in the timing cover.
Looks like a truck or boat application to me.
NEVER seen an air cleaner like that.
Not much I can add beyond this.
Anyone know what that "cable" is coming out of the back of generator? Looks like a TACH drive cable, but that can't be right????
I purchased my rebuild kit from a pump restorer outside of Boston -
http://www.then-now.com/contact.htm
Fit like a glove with no modifications.
And it looked just like the AMK picture above - only it didn't come with new screws - I purchased those from AMK.
Regarding my 3908S pump - the key to usage on a small block is the arm number - not the body number - and it does appear to be equiped with a small block arm, but I will check it again to be sure. It ran perfect in the car for about 5 years - PLUS ran mid 14s in the 1/4 mile - so fuel delivery wasn't an issue. It did have a FORD REMAN decal and they may have used any body available to build pumps.
FYI - the early screw together type pumps did NOT have the button.
I have one for my '65 resto - was on the car when purchased in '79 - lucky for me I kept it. Carter number on mine is 3908S - it does have an extra arm spring, but not the button. The button began with the crimp style pumps.
Check eBay - they pop up once in a while - typically NOT CHEAP even used.
I'm glad I could help out in a small way - and I did forget to mention that RPM would be a factor - thanks jwc66k!
My company is headquartered in Plymouth, MI - so definitely count me in for an invite. I'm sure I can swing a trip up to attend.
My car is a mid-April '65 Dearborn car - defintely had none of the original exhaust in place when I started the resto. Even if this system isn't 100% accurate for my car I like the louder, deep bass exhaust - count me in too. I haven't bought anything yet and this sounds like an awesome opportunity to have a unique system on my car.
round2k,
While I am not an Acoustics Engineer - I am an Electrical Engineer and know a little about resonance and wave attenuation.
The goal of the extra tube is a 1/4 wave length "wave guide" to create a wave attenuation channel. These were used all the time in the old days for Radar Microwaves.
The key to your system will be getting the "pitch" right (sound pressure level) - which means frequency matching the "attenuation tube" to the sound frequency of the engine so that you get wave cancellation.
OK - now for the easy part without all the big words.
Here is how I would "prototype" the system - you will need everything in the car with a relatively good tuned motor. Get a sound pressure meter (you can buy one at Radio Shack). You will need to make what looks like a slide trombone for the attenuation tube on the muffler. Find 2 pieces of pipe that fit ID to OD really really tight - but that will still slide with thick axle grease between them - one end is closed up and the other goes into the muffler. You will want at least 6-12 inches of movement either direction with a good rough estimate of the proper tube length being in the middle. It doesn't have to be exact - just in the ball park - then put your "slide" attenuation tube in the middle - start the car and measure the sound pressure level. As you move the slide in or out the "sound" will change - you will see this as you take measurements with the sound meter. You are looking for the "noise attenuation point" - the slide position where you get the lowest sound pressure reading - this is the proper tube length to create a 1/4 wave attenuation of the exhaust noise.
If you have more questions please let me know. I did something very similar to this with Microwaves in college - physics are the same between sound waves and microwaves - only the overall system sizes change.
The first converts didn't have them. I remember reading somewhere that Ford had a TSB for "Cowl Shake" and adding these braces fixed it.
I need to check some really old photos I have - I have seen this car's TWIN at the Tulsa, OK National Show in the late 80's.
I'm interested in the bumpers if they are the older style NOS and in good shape. I have newer NOS ones that are almost junk.
NICE JOB! The car will definitely be nice when it is finisherd.
It is great to see them at this stage with all the rust fixed.
Reminds me of my '65 "after" shots - the "before" shots were scary!
Since the auto trans wasn't offered in '65 for a HiPo - I need a non-automatic Jan-early April '65 rad core or restored radiator.
Mustangs Unlimited and others sell an adapter plate to use the stock clutch and linkage with a T5. The input shaft of the T5 is about 1" longer than the stock Toploader - so you need this spacer to properly mount the tranny to the existing bell housing.
The T5 trans mount is in a different position so you need a new cross member. Not sure about the drive shaft or speedo-cable. You also need to be sure of which tranny you use - the regular T5 and the World Class T5 look similar, but rear mounting position is slightly different - so be sure to get the right cross member.
I haven't done a T5 swap, but have done an AOD swap - stock drive shaft worked for me but in this case you need to use the later model yoke (requires a special u-joint to work), needed a special speedo cable to keep the VSS sensor (for EFI computer), and a special cross member for the different rear mounting position. I made a custom linkage to use the early Mustang auto shifter with the AOD. I can give details and photos to anyone interested.
I also remember Mustang Monthly doing several articles on these swaps in the past - you might try seaching there website for info.
Ron Morris Performance also offers some of the swap pieces for late model stuff going into early 'stangs.
I hope this helps.
I'm interested in finding a rad too - Dearborn - Jan thru early April '65.
I would take either a restored unit or a rebuildable core.
Thanks.
