Posts by RalphJr

    I've purchased MANY parts from "MU" in 15 plus years - they WERE a good source until about 8-10 years ago when they expanded and started chasing big money - IE CHEAP CHINA crap.


    While I am still a customer of "MU" I VERY carefully examine every part I buy from them. I have the good fortune that my office is only 2 miles from their Atlanta warehouse.


    I've had similar "bad" reactions to parts from Cali Mustang, NPD, AutoKrafters, and several others - even when you ask they do not always know where it is made or of what "quality" it is. I've even gotten "BAD" NOS FoMoCo parts - so it isn;t just the repo stuff.


    Sad to say it is a reality of our hobby and the economy - plus the Muscle Car Craz.


    I have been very happy with almost all Scott Drake parts - he seems to really care about his part quality. So I ask for his parts whenever possible.

    AS far as I know this was on the option list for all Cougars that year, but I expect there were very few ordered.


    The one I saw was a highly optioned very rare XR-7 GTE Cougar.


    It would be interesting to see if Ken Marti has an info.


    ASC and others have been doing this type of specialized MFG for the Big 3 for years - just like Kar Kraft doing the BOSS429s.

    FYI - these were not always "vintage add ons" for FoMoCO - they were for 'stangs as far as I know, BUT you could order a '68 Cougar with a fabric sunroof from the factory. In fact, I have seen a car ordered this way - several years ago at the East Coast National Cougar Show in Atlanta.

    The fan that actually sold was a Buy It Now $795 price and had an A65 datecode.


    There is currently a late 64 datecode at $800 and Bob Perkins is selling a M63 dated fan with a Reserve. It is currently in the mid $200 range - but knowing how proud he is of all his parts even this early code fan will have a very high price!

    The pinion snubber braket is definitely missing from the rear axle, but at least this one has the correct HiPo floor pan plate.


    This seller has had other "HiPo" cars that didn't.


    Funny how the seller threatened me with LEGAL action when I pointed this out to him on a previous car (it had to be a rebody, major floor repair, or a re-stamped VIN). NOW every one of his HiPo auctions includes a CLOSE UP photo of this! Guess he has learned there is a difference!


    My April '65 HiPo has the snubber bracket and the same rubber bushing on the floor pan as this car - instead of the smaller one on top of the snubber.


    Mine had to be that way from the factory because when I removed the bushing during resto teardown it was like brand new underneath - both the floor pan and the bushing.


    FYI - the bushing doesn't do much good without the snubber - and snubber brackets are getting expensive and harder to find.


    Two other things I noticed:


    1 - Car build date is 20A - engine casting is 6D14 - correct me if I'm wrong but his claim of "Numbers Matching" isn't accurate with the engine cast 4 months after the scheduled build date. I'd check out all the parts closely.


    2 - Yes - check the VIN - it should start with a "6". This could just be a typo or misread on their part.


    It does look like a good starting point "car", but it will need some work and $65,000 is high for a the car has some "potential" issues like the block and snubber.

    If you don't plan to sell your car at Auction or Show it in a points class ANY bolt on modification is OK - in my opinion - and while it is YOUR car - enjoy it the way you want.


    The Rally Pac and most of the GT items could be added as dealer options anyway. About the only thing that requires "HOLES" is the GT fog light wiring (2 or 3). AND these can be easily hidden or repaired with a little work. If you like the GT exhaust - get a repop rear valance - have it painted to match the car and swap out the original one - you can always change it back later if you want.


    While I agree a non GT HiPo is a rarity at shows - real HiPos or cars with intact drivelines are just as rare. I see 100 to 1 cars with HiPo badges verses real HiPos at shows - and this number continues to go up every year.


    I have a non GT '65 2+2 HiPo - with the original drive line intact, but I am adding the GT fog lights and exhaust trumpets to mine - because I like the way they look, I don't plan to ever sell the car, show it much, and I don't plan to ever pass my car off as a factory GT - even though I could based upon my build date. Others would not be as honest. Plus I have pictures of the car back to '79 when I purchased it showing the non GT status - these photos add value to the car in my opinion because I can tell anyone the history of the car and exactly what has been done to it for over 75% of it's life. My kids can argue over who gets it or sells it when I am gone!


    This is not too different from adding Disc Brakes to a non GT car that came with drum brakes or adding a dual master cylinder for safety reasons. While non-stock they can be "undone" with a little work.

    I have had a bad experience with this guy - related to a previous HiPo posting of a potential re-body K code.


    He was down right NASTY to me when I offered to help him identify if the car was in fact a re-body. Because of his approach to that situation I wouldn't recommend dealing with him, but I could be wrong.


    I have also heard via a buddy in my Mustang Club that he has gotten in trouble for selling a re-body BOSS302.


    From what I can tell he is a GM guys and only dabbles in FoMoCo - his cars are "not" as good as advertized from what I have seen.

    I just purcahsed a rebuilt '65 rad for my April Dearborn car.


    DEP-C4ZE-8005-G1-5AD (5AD - 65 Jan 4th week)


    I'm not exactly sure what the number would be for the earlier car.


    Some time in April they switched from G1 to Y1 - but the base part number is the same.


    These pop up from time to time on eBay - and I've heard of several people finding cores from any 4 speed mustang.


    The 4 speed radiator is not unique to the HiPo.

    If the car was early enough to be fitted with the transverse muffler system it will have the rear seat plates, but no the rear frame rail supports.


    This system actually used different hangers closer to the rear axle up the frame rail, but did use the rear seat mounting points like the later system.


    I believe this has been discussed here before - search the archive for transverse muffler and I think you'll find what you are looking for.

    Does anyone know for sure how to decode dates on bumpers?


    I've found 2 fronts with the following codes:


    1 21 M6

    3 3 M5


    Using the sheet metal codes they would be

    1st week 21st day Monroe, Mi stamping 6th shift (or year???)


    3rd week 3rd Monroe, Mi stamping 5th shift (or year???)


    I haven't yet found any rear bumpers with clear codes yet.


    Any help is appreciated.


    FYI - I'm looking for a good front and rear core for re-chrome for my April '65 K. If anyone here has some for sale please let me know.

    SOUNDS AWESOME GUYS!


    Reminds me of my K in High School! I ran it with 16" Trush straight thru glass packs.


    You can hear the tranny whine, gears, and the suspension too.


    Now I can't wait to get my car done and hear it with this system!


    It has been WAY too long since mine was parked!

    First off 10/64 is not too early for disc brakes - as far as I know they were an option from almost the start of production. Plus Shelby was building Fastbacks at this point and they HAD the disc brakes.


    I'd be surprised if anyone can tell when this cap was used, but I doubt it came that way from Ford. Copper is used as a base plating metal becasue it is soft and easily polished and other things stick to it really well. Besides it is highly reactive and will corrode very quickly. I'm surprised it is not tarnished green already. I've never seen raw copper used on auto applications beyond the electrical system. But then again you never know with Ford!