Posts by RalphJr

Not surprised - I just saw it in passing - eBay strikes again!

There is a red "NOS" radio delete up on eBay right now.

AWESOME!

Try a search of the archive - this has been discussed in detail several times.

General concensus is a bulk rubber material available from a sheet rubber manufacturer and regular staples used in various Mustang applications.

There are other options too - you might find something at a hardware store or Home Depot.

I second and third the recommendation of Classic - I've used their stuff on two cars now and couldn't be happier with their quailty or customer service.

Never seen the cast iron ones in cars - except the COBRA scatter shield - rare and expensive.

The cast ones were used in trucks of that era - seen a bunch in older pick ups and large Ford trucks.

They pop up on ebay from time to time - and Fred is correct - they use the larger flywheel/clutch assembly.

I'd ask for close up details on the hardness test marks or any other markings on the crank.

In or Out - they fit so bad it is hard to get them installed regardless.

I've had the biggest problems where they bolt up to the block - they just aren't stamped well at all.

Everyone I've used for the last 20 years was Made in India or China junk.

They require generous bending, hammering, and sometimes drilling to get them to work - I've even resorted to long grade 8 bolts with the heads cut off - put into the block - then let the weight of the engine do the work lining them up - on the frame side a long slightly under size steel rod - or screwdriver - works wonders to line up the holes.

Having a second person to jack up and down on the engine lift is also necessary.

Sure looks similar to me - was originally posted as in the Atlanta area, so now it is in South Carolina - not that far.

Is it just me or is there a GIANT rust spot in the transition area aft of the "new floor" just below where the seatbelt is mounted near the frame rail?

Sure looks awful big to me - and also looks like there is a sheet metal screw holding down part of the floor too.

You gotta love eBay!

Depending upon when your car was built in '66 your housing may be correct.

I've never seen numbers on the housings - but I've only seen mine and 2 others - all '65s - one was even from a '65 GT350.

Ford did a running change on many parts at various times in Mustang production - they changed to the different rear housing and dropped the special HiPo only motor mounts in early '66 - so if your car was built early in the model run it may have had the round back housing instead of the later style. Having the special HiPo motor mounts would be a good indicator of early production too - but your build date would be the best source - along with asking someone with a car built close to yours what they have installed.

If this really is a rust free ALL factory sheet metal '66 - where is the dimple aft of the shifter for the back up light wiring?

The REPOP full floor replacement lacks this feature - I'd bet $10 this car has had some metal work. Plus it lacks the heavy sprayed sealer around the seat platforms - but this could have been cleaned off - the dimple missing is a big gotcha.

I have a question - WHY would it say "Excluding Shelbys"??? Did someone take the Shelby numbers right off the total? I doubt Ford did.

As far as FOMOCO was concerned these cars were produced with a Ford "K" VIN - in almost every case, but I'm sure there are a few rare exceptions. It wasn't until they reached the Shelby facility that they received the Shelby Serial number plate.

Ford didn't take Shelby manufacturing into their factories until 1968 - so up until then Ford would have included them in any records they had for VIN numbers in general or "K" VIN cars. I doubt Ford even knew what Shelby number went on which K VIN either.

Maybe I'm wrong - please let me know if there is better info - just doesn't make sense that Ford would "count" them or record them differently if they put a Ford VIN on the chassis and had no idea what the Shelby number ended up being. They might note that they were sold in blocks to Shelby, but at that time I doubt they were counting the differently.

If that was the case, then every K is a little more rare by reducing the number to account for GT350s.

To my knowledge the Roller timing set for the Hipo is no longer produced by anyone.

Cloyes DID in fact make one in the 70's - with the thinner profile needed for the hatchet weight.

I have the part number in some notes somewhere, but I think I have posted it here before. I received this info directly from Cloyes - their "TECH" guy was TOPS - he knew exactly what a HiPo was and what was different about it. I looked extensively on-line and contacted several NOS auto parts companies and came up empty handed on the Cloyes roller set.

You "might" be able to turn down the back of the crank gear and drill it for the hatchet weight on a regular 289 roller set - provided the chain does not hit the weight once installed - tricky, but a good machine shop should be able to do it. Not sure it would be worth the money however.

Besides if you have your engine balanced you can leave the hatchet off and use the regular 289 roller set no problem.

The HiPo springs are different than the regular 289, but the advice of letting the machine shop set up your heads and cam is good. Most cam spec sheets will give you the spring rates needed and the machine shop can set this up when they do the heads.

Check this one out VERY closely......repop door tag and re-body (or heavy accident damage) since the Rear Axle floor pan plate is wrong for a true HiPo. It also has the early spare tire plate. Car could have been sectioned or the "K" serial number put on this chassis.

My car was built only a few thousand before this one in April '65 - so I know his door tag date is wrong.

Not a true factory GT or Pony car IMHO.

In Electrical Engineering terms this is called a Hi Pot test.

It does take a special tester to check high voltage impedance and breakdown of a coil under working type conditions.

A simple DMM (lingo for handheld meter) will only show you if you have an open or a short in the windings - it will not tell you what happens under a load (coil in operation) like a Hi Pot test will.

I think that is for his '65 GT350 - not his '67.

The date codes were ink stamped on the coil metal body and typically do not survive except on very low mileage cars.

If these are the numbers from the yellow top between the two wire posts - the common idea is that these are mold markings not datecodes.

VERY cool!

Funny - the "UPSCALE" - ie more expensive - Mercury Cougar even used these cardboard shields.