Posts by RalphJr

Just to add a little here - my K is a Dearborn car April '65.

I also have an early '66 A code New Jersey coupe (August '65). The buck tag on this car is actually a '65 door tag turned upside down and stamped with the buck info - Ford recycling! This tag still had nice paint / ink on the back side and also had the "G" in the lower right corner of the inked area.

Maybe for did have a different supplier for the West Coast because I looked at an eBay car recently with what appeared to be an original tag with no "G".

I paid $25 I think for the threaded version NOS.

If you can find one of the correct '65 valves still in a salvage yard I'd be surprised if they would even charge you - but maybe $2-$5 MAX. But I think it would be rare part to find one now 40 odd years later.

I've never seen a used one for sale anywhere - eBay or swap meets.

The same spacers were used on lots of Fords - as long as it is the right length I think you are good.

HiPo's didn't have special radiators - just 4 speed radiators in '65 - and either one depending upon tranny choice in '66.

I've got 2 - my original from mid April '65 - short length - and a longer version from an August/Spet "A" code '66 - neither one has any numbers - just a very small logo on the very tip where it goes thru the fan.

I sold autoparts in high school in late '79 & '80 - at the same time I aquired my HiPo.

That red/brown color looks very familiar. We sold Walker Exhaust products at HiLo Auto Parts in Houston, Texas - that color looks like the same one used on the Walker performance mufflers we stocked.

I didn't run them and don't remeber what they looked like inside - but do remeber the color - I always thought they were weird looking - so unlike the Thrush and Cherry Bomb colors.

Not sure that will help - but who knows.

FYI - My car still had the original in place back in the day (1979), but it was totally useless as it was in 2 pieces.

It defintely was made from tire side wall as it had a nice section of white wall in the middle and this is where it broke into 2 pieces.

It was bolted to the firewall/shock tower brace with the common sheet metal screw Ford used.

Sold auto parts in high school and college - saw this happen a total of 2 times in about 7 years - I wouldn't worry. The plugs won't degrade and are crimped together - only if the crimp is bad would this happen.

I ran Autolite 45's in my HiPo for a number of years after the other plugs got hard to find - never fouled one either.

I've always tried to gap on the low side of the recommendation. The gap will increase as the plug ages and the tip erodes, so you stay in the correct gap range longer - just don't over do it.

I'm not sure for a very late '65 car, but the '65 valve was natural steel with a 6 sided blot look exposed between the valve cover and hose.

The '64 style valve looks almost the same - it just has threads instead of a hose fitting.

This is what I'm planning to use on my April '65 K.

I have a picture of both I think that I can email to you.

As far as I know the blue plastic ones are the later NOS reeplacements and not 100% show correct.

Looks correct, but could have been "manufactured" yesterday.

Many people make their own since this part isn't repoped, but is easy to copy and make.

Without a FoMoCo bag, box, or part number label I wouldn't pay much for it - no way he can prove it is NOS FORD.

PCV set up is the same as other 289s.

NOS or show correct valves with the hose nipple are hard to find and expensive - hose is the same as an A or C code.

Many people use the earlier '64 "threaded" type valve and either cut the hose and use the elbow - or just clamp it as is on the threads. This looks very close to stock.

Road draft equiped cars need a special HiPo only draft tube due to the HiPo exhaust manifolds.

glchypo,

The eBay ad said the block was VIN stamped - is this not true?

It is not unexpected for the block dates to lead the car build date by several months - especially since the engines were built in Cleveland and the sent truck or rail to California.

Have you looked for the VIN just above the oil pan rail on the passenger side of the block below where the ground cable bolts?

Have you pulled the oil pan yet?

If it really doesn't have the original engine sorry to hear the news - it looked like a cool original car with some history.

Blocks pop up from time to time, so keep your eyes open.

Dan,

Fred is correct - all the documentation I have shows the disty datecode as year (number), month (letter), and week (letter).

Sounds like he has what you need for a '64, August, 2nd week date code - 4HB.

I finally found a 5BB disty for my April '65 K.

How about some photos when you get this rare HiPo motor finished?

I agree.

My original April '65 also has the "G" in the lower right corner - my repop from Marti does not - plus the text font Marti uses for the black overlay is slightly off size. Stamping is a little heavy too, but close enough. He has the stamping spacing spot on!

My original was not painted over, but is not in great shape - I haven't decided if I will put it back on the car or in the safe deposit box.

All in all I am very happy with all the repop tags I received from Marti - only 2 complaints are the door tag not being correct and the carb tag (maybe this came from Pony Carbs - I'll need to check) not having the correct FoMoCo oval stamp - it has Autolite instead.

Marti's service was fast and tags look great.

"I have never seen a documented plain Jane A code or C code car with factory duals or 9" rear end."

Yes a little off topic. I was just pointing out the differences in the rear metal build and that it should be easy to spot a T code that has been modified -- completely missed the point that a T code 6 cylinder would never have had duals or a 9"!

OK sometimes my age shows and I'm a little slow!

I think from previous posts and discussions we have clearly established that a TRUE "A code" factory GT car DID use the same chassis metal build as ALL HiPos (obviously built from Spring '65 on).

What this means is that originally the HiPo was the only Mustang avaiable with a dual exhaust set up from the "factory" - this included the relocation of the rear brake hose and various other metal changes like the rear muffler supports under the seat and depending upon when the car was built different frame rail supports for the tail pipes.

Now add to this that all HiPos received the 9" rear end - therefore they received a different axle bumper plate as part of the floor pan.

Now keep in mind that FORD would have been thinking of manufacturing efficiency and COST. So when they launched the "GT" cars with dual exhaust included, they needed a metal frame set up for this. They didn't "create" a new one model only frame build for the "A code" cars - they aready had what they needed with the K code metal set up.

This is another way to confirm a "FACTORY" GT car if it is an A code.

Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong, but based upon my 25+ years working with early 'stangs only the K code had "factory" dual exhaust and a 9" rear end - only a factory A code GT had "factory" dual exhaust.

I have never seen a documented plain Jane A code or C code car with factory duals or a 9".

Back to the point of the original post --- --- franKcode --- You my man have a rare conversation piece. If everything checks out as you have described you have a very rare factory mis-stamp. Guard your documentation with your LIFE! And enjoy the car!

If you do a full resto on the car I would document every aspect of the metal frame in raw metal as part of the proof that the frame is virgin and only the VIN stamp is incorrect.

One word of advice though - CAREFULLY approach this subject with your local DMV. I know in Georgia they are a little picky about the VIN stamp. That is what they use to ID the car - door tags and other documentation don't count. They even cut out VINs from theft recovery cars! and assign then a new "Georgia sequential VIN". Just make sure that if you ever sell the car that the new owner is aware to be careful - laws vary state to state.

Rad support and apron appear to be repop's - I've seen these bad stampings several times.

Could just be damage repair and a re-stamp - I'd check it out closely.

Looks like a nice car from the limted photos.

You do have an original radiator - DEP is the company who made them for Ford (not sure what the exact name was)....maybe Detroit E(something) Products????

C4ZE 8005-G1 Ford engineering number

4DD - 1964 4th month 4th week

I recently purchased a C4ZE 8005-G1 5BD for my April '65 K 2+2.

As long as the tanks and sides are in good shape re-coring can be done by any good radiator shop.

A leaky head gasket or intake can put water or coolant into the cylinders - as Fred asked - Does it go away after a short drive? If it does it is just exhaust condensation.

If NO - then does the exhaust vapor smell sweet or like antifreeze?

If it does I'd first run a compression test on each cylinder - that may help locate the source - then pull the intake and heads.

Another possibility is if the car is an automatic you could have a bad modulator valve. Tranny fluid will smoke white out of the exhaust - fluid is pulled up into the intake by the engine thru the vac line when the valve leaks.

Water vapor smoke disappears really quick - tranny fluid some hangs around a while.

I hope this helps.

Your alternator pulley is correct for an early car.

I have purchased one for my mid-April dated K 2+2 - assuming that the alternator would have been built earlier - since I'm so close to the change over date.

I had to really search to find one of the correct "C" part number pulleys - not the more common and repop'd "H" pulley - AND it wasn't cheap.

I've only seen one sell on ebay in 4 years - part of a complete alternator - and it went for about $200.

By the way - this pulley uses a flat cooling fan too - so don't seperate them - I don't think the later style cooling fan will work with it.