Any Mustang with a "K" VIN can be put in the registry - original drivetrain is potional.
I personally would like to see it expanded to include other FoMoCo K codes m- but I think there are some others collectong data on Fairlanes and otehrs.
I does help the be honest about the car, but that will only matter when you sell it.
The main goal of the regisrty is to locate the cars and get as much info about them now and how they left the factory.
Belmont is 100% correct - it is a plate from a single exhaust car.
The HiPo and "true" A code GT dual exhaust plate should be a "smile" shape __/ 
at the top visible above the axle housing -- NOT a frown shape/--
The shape of this plate is covered in Tony's book and has been discussed here MANY times. Including many posted pictures of the correct plates.
We frequently discuss this "re-body" topic here and how the true history of modified and incorrect cars gets "forgotten" over time and ends up cheating people.
Only the guys actually doing the "re-body" think it is OK - because they stand to make more money! Just like this guy conveniently forgetting to say that the car had been cut in half!
Aren't these one of the cars used in the Mad Max Films? Specifically Max's TURBO Intercepter?
Check out this link.
You can use black tie wraps or small screws.
I have a restomod '66 that uses a Classic Auto Air system - the tie wraps worked for some connections, but for the defrosters I used small black screws.
Drill a small pilot hole and the plastic won't crack.
High Torque starter, starter heat shield and/or header wrap, and a check of the timing should fix his problem.
Had a buddy with a 460 Kit Cobra with the same problem - fix was a heat shield and header wrap.
Header wrap even helped our feet out a little.
I think he finally Hot-Jet coated the headers/side pipes and added some floor insulation panels to fix that one.
Thanks to my Editor - Yes, shame on me for a double negative!
I think the lists of show wins are the "rambling". Surprising not to see their hand written "Inspection Notes" this time! Those are always so much fun to look at and so informative!
Looks like a nice car, but the pictures could be better.
It has the longer version of the fan spacer - my April'65 K has the shorter one - but my September '65 A code '66 Coupe had the longer one - maybe Ford switch near the end of the '65 run.
Interesting to see he is trying to post a picture of the rear axle bumper plate - even though he messed up the shot in this ad. I think this is a response to a previous "K" car he had - discussed here in detail about 18 months ago - that didn't have the correct plate (probably a re-body). He got rather nasty with some of us regarding the "originality" of the car, our website postings, and use of his ad photos regarding the car.
Several nice "K" cars have been "Offered" for sale in the 6 figure range, but not sure if any of them ever sold.
"This is just not a unrealistic price" -- should read -- This is an unrealistic price in the current market and economy - regardless of condition or perigree.
Might be a great car, but not at this price IMHO. I wouldn't recommend this dealer based upon his previous attitude towards our board.
Seems like I remember this car from 3 or 4 years ago - a Las Vegas dealer had it and it was a potential re-body since the rear axle plate was wrong.
Anyone else remember this or am I losing it?
Z. Ray is right - I see no direct attack or flame of you - just an opinion regarding the potential for fraud here. And I also agree it is wrong.
Set aside the fact that some owners might ACTAULLY be honest about their "RE-BODY" cars (hard to tell if all owners would if big miney was on the line)- in many states it is ILLEGAL to modify VIN numbers.
Look what happened to Unique Performance in Dallas, Texas. They were the group building the majority of the Eleanor Shelby remakes. They were doing title scrubbing and number modifications and got SHUT DOWN by the Texas DMV and ultimately went belly up. Criminal charges will likely follow.
Ulitmately it HURTS every owner of an original or properly restored car when someone takes SALVAGE parts - and that is what you are offering for sale - and sells them as a package for re-creation of a car that was previously destroyed - even suggesting that someone could recreate this car is a bad idea and opens a whole can of worms for potential fraud, serious legal issues, and someone getting hurt -- IMHO.
This "RE-BODY" issue has been discussed here MANY times before AND several members have found out the hard way their cars were fakes or re-bodies - I bet they would agree with me and Z. Ray that this is wrong. It is easy for someone to be "taken" if they are not fully knowledgeable of what a "K" car is. That is something we strive to eliminate by sharing information about what makes a K car special AND by discouraging fakes, re-bodies, or other questionable activity. I have several BOSS302 owner/friends AND know for a fact that the BOSS crowd shares this same goal and opinion - just check out the BOSS302 registry site and search on re-body - you might be surprised. This is also why the SHELBY group started their registry years ago - to protect original cars and keep a record of cars lost to history - unfortunately some of those cars are coming back to life with the increase in Shelby prices - ask a Shelby owner what he thinks about this - oh wait Z. Ray is one!
We're not attacking or flaming you - we are simply stating what I think is the MAJORITY opinion of our small "specialty car" group - re-bodied cars are bad for our hobby, ultimately can hurt someone, and can impact our original car values.
It is great that you have cars you love - enjoy them. But if or when you sell them the "re-body' status of those cars can easily be lost / forgotten / or will simply not be shared with future buyers once it is out of your hands. How would you feel if you had a dream all your life of owning an "original" rare car - finding it - buying it - then finding out you paid top dollar for a "re-creation" that you could not re-sell for the same money? You would feel ripped off right? This is what usually happens.
Sounds like air in the lines to me.
I've always had to bleed new systems 2-3 times to get all the air out.
I've had good luck with a one man bleeder pump system, but works slower than the old "press - hold - release" buddy system with someone in the car pressing the pedal and you on the floor getting squirted with fluid!
Did you happen to use DOT 5 silicone fluid?
If you did it WILL take several bleeds to get it right.
Door tag does appear to be a repop.
In high school I put 20" Thrush mufflers(if you can call them that) - straight thru glass packs on my hi po. Exhaust was all new front to back with 2 1/4" pipe and a small cross over - the guy had a hell of a time figuring out how to hook up to the "weird" exhaust manifolds that didn't match his bending machine specs for Mustangs - HAHA! Told him it was rare and unique - he didn't believe me!
Dad actually went with me - so I didn't get taken.
Now keep in mind that the pipes went out the back - but it was so loud that my Dad refused to ever ride in the car again!
I blame my current hearing "quality" (or lack of it as my wife points out routinely) on the sound level of my hipo and all of the other race cars I've worked on for 25 odd years.
Miracle Ear here I come!
I can only imagine how much louder the side exhaust is - but the drone at speed is probably close to the same.
The cops didn't like me very much either - never actually got a "noise" ticket but got plenty of road side visits!
I loved the sound regardless and plan on using the Arvinode system when my car gets to that point.
Just like with my Harley - LOUD PIPES SAVE LIVES!
Stock Ford was a 2 row core. Going to 3 row core will change the depth - so you will need different fan shroud mounts I think.
You can purcahse a rebuild kit from AMK or check out this place on the east coast:
AMK offers a rebuild kit for the screw type early pumps.
You can also contact:
http://www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/cellar.htm
This guy does all kinds of pumps and is very knowledgeable.
Unfortunately he doesn't do the "crimp" style pumps.
I second the vote for Clevite bearings.
And don't forget good assembly lube and a pre-prime on the oil system before start up.
9" rear end is missing - lots of work to fix the rust!
Not sure April 1st is the real date as my mid April Dearborn K has the '65 style wiper arms.
Don't forget that the posts have chrome fittings in '65 in the cowl holes below the arms - in '66 Ford reduced costs by eliminating this part and changing the arms a little to cover more of the hole.
FYI - I think Scott Drake makes repop arms - his stuff is usually very good.
It would be interesting to see pictures at some point of the engine.
I've heard "RUMORS" for years of 4 bolt main racing 289's - but never seen one - even in a personal talk with Carroll Shelby he said they didn't exist.
I have seen one photograph - in the early 80's - of a Tunnel Port 302 race engine from the '67-68 time frame - VERY RARE. It was a 302 block with 4 bolt mains.
It was the "father" of the BOSS302, but Ford and the race teams found out it wasn't as strong as they needed and wouldn't breathe well enough - hence the improved BOSS block with Cleveland heads.
I only got to see the picture after I called the guy a liar for telling me he had once owned a 4 bolt main small block Ford 289/302 that wasn't a BOSS. Unfortunately he slod the race car the engine was in in the later 70's.
Anyone else seen one or have documentation of this?
