Posts by RalphJr

    You don't have to drill out the brass threaded insert - you can use a broken bolt remover. Take out the sending unit and put in the bolt remover - one that fits down inside the bushing all the way and fits snugly - bushing should come right out.


    A late '65 intake will have the bushing, but earlier intakes will not have the larger 3/8" pipe thread hole - Ford switched sometime in late '64 or early '65 from the cast small 1/4" NPT hole to the larger 3/8" NPT hole - GT cars use the larger temp sending units, but the non-GT cars used the smaller 1/4" sending unit with the bushing.


    It doesn't matter which size you use - it is all resistance and you just need to use one that works correctly - AND like Murf sadi check your temps really well before during and after to make sure the guade is reading correctly.


    I don't have an infrared thermo - I have a Fluke meter with a thermal couple to check the water temp - does require leaving the system open or making a special fitting - but it works. Mine is nice because it is calibrated to a 1/2 degree.


    I've known old timers who used large meat themos in the radiator too.


    Just find something accurate to calibrate your guage....you don't want to over heat and not know it.

    The top bar was just a support bar - not a sound tube.


    It was necessary in '65 to keep the system together due to the weakness of the chambered mufflers.


    Today's technology and metal strength allows the mufflers to be made without the need for the external support bar - but for show correctness they add it anyway.


    If you don't plan to show the car in a judged class buy the system without the support bar and save some money - but get the same "KILLER" sound.:D

    CLOYES still makes the HiPo chain and gears - your local auto parts store - not a chain store - but a good full service store - should be able to order you a set.


    You can search for it in the archive - I have posted the part numbers here several times.

    My rubber bumper is actually on the body - bolted into the outside holes - appeared to have been that way from the factory or very early in the cars life - when I removed it for the restoration there was freash primer on the body under the bumper.


    I don't have a bumper on the axle, but the correct axle plate.


    Not sure why - maybe they were running low on parts that day - our cars were built the same week - a couple of days apart. Maybe the worker on the line made a mistake?

    Fact or Fiction?


    Definitely FACT, but the system was pretty rare because of the rarity of K codes to begin with, the short time it was used (only on K codes), AND the number of systems that were replaced early on by Ford or owners who didn't like the "sound level".


    Plus - I don't think a company like NPD would invest in selling fictional exhaust systems - especially at $500 a pop.


    Defintely search the archive - there is a great treasure hunt that took place to bring this system back from from the dead. Many members here contributed to the effort.


    Take the time to watch the You Tube video too - gotta love the sound!

    I agree 110% - you are mistaking my meaning - duals of any kind were not an option - without the K motor or GT package. The GT trumpets were never offered seperately either - except maybe by a dealer after the fact - but NOT a Ford option.


    What I was referencing is the Ford exhaust illustrations from that time - they do show either clamp on turn down tips or GT trumpets - maybe I'm mistaken in what I remember from the shop manual illustration.


    The Arvinode was stopped around the same time the GT package started, I would think they had to be planning to use this system for the GT as well in advance - maybe it is just in the illustration and never made it to production - then again maybe I'm having a senior moment. I think the Arvinode system would have continued in production if less owners had complained.


    Does the Walden repop system have clamped turn downs or are they welded?


    If they are welded the pipes will have to be cut and adjusted to accept the GT trumpets - otherwise they should work if the tips are long enough to mate up to the pipes without the turn downs.


    As I said before - probably best to contact Walden's directly and ask them if it will work or if they can make one for you with the trumpets.

    I am pretty sure the Ford documentation shows the GT tips as an option - but Ford didn't keep the Arvinode around long enough.


    I'd contact Walden's directly and ask them - they might work as is or they could modify a set for you to work with the GT tips.


    Also, any good muffler shop should be able to modify the rear pipes to accept the GT tips too.


    My April non-GT K would have had the replacement system, but I plan to use the Arvinode for the sound and performance - I have never really liked the GT tips myself, so I'll just use the turndowns.

    I have an April '65 Dearborn K and it has the later style larger plate - like shown in the 1st red and the white photos in this topic thread. I have traded correspondance with a couple of factory GT owners before and after my car - K and A code - all have the same plate.


    I hope this helps a little.

    Great pics. Especially the last one!


    I wish I had a photo of my black '65 K 2+2 along side my black '82 GT.......Still have both cars, but the '65 is still being painted.


    I love my '82 GT almost as much as my K - it can't hold a candle to the K in the raw HP and fun department, but it will win hands down when the road gets twisty.

    I didn't take any photos, but I can confirm that the tubes are correct. They are not re-used 8" tubes - they are brand new. I asked the seller/builder how he made them......and he winked at me! He has come up with a way to make the taper on virgin tube stock and isn't sharing his secret. If I had the key I wouldn't share it either!


    You will not be disappointed with his housing.

    I think I have almost everything you need.....but I will only sell the console stuff with the whole console - I have a fairly nice original with no breaks or cracks.


    I definitely have a set of heater cables.


    Send me an email and I'll send you some pics.