Happy Thanksgiving from the east coast, can’t exercise Kar children an grand children are visiting, an yes I’m grateful for everything,
Relicdog
Happy Thanksgiving from the east coast, can’t exercise Kar children an grand children are visiting, an yes I’m grateful for everything,
Relicdog
After changing to manual steer idler arm everything turned out fine, I’ve been told the power steering idler arm should have worked but for some reason it presented a problem.
Any way all is fine now, going for alignment soon I’m thinking or should I say trying for 2positive on caster, .5 or .75 negative on camber an 1/16 - 1/8 on toe in. I’m open to suggestions if anyone knows a better setup.
Thanks,
Relicdog
Thanks Fred,
The idler arm that I was using has teeth, I have one without teeth, hopefully that fixes my problem, I will post results.
Relicdog
Which idler arm has metal teeth, power, manual or both.
Relicdog
I did the work, followed all torque specs, assembled according to manual, was supposed to be assembly line originals, purchased from J. D. Larson ( all classic motors)
Maybe the wrong idler arm, people say Manuel an power are the same what’s your opinion on that.
Relicdog
After rebuilding front end the drag link is making contact with starter when turning wheel all the way to right. Replaced all tie rods, drag link, Idler an bracket an had front end alignment, any suggestions on possible cause.
Relicdog
I use Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 10-30 Plus I add Cam Shield every oil change.
Thanks Evan,
Finding original trans. would be great, since the Kar has original vin.
stamped engine.
Phone # 540-247-4596
Relicdog
Still looking for transmission for
5F09K753346
Evan,
on the previous forum before the crash I wrote a 3 part story on the risks of buying kars at auction, an I’m
talking from experience because it
happened to me. The Kar I purchased at auction was advertised
as being totally rebuilt, motor, trans.
rearend, undercarriage etc. etc. it was totally false, so whenever I do
anything to the Kar I go all the way,
then I know it’s correct.
Relicdog
Evan,
I wanted the motor to look an run
great, I did a lot more than what
the pictures show, replaced everything internally even the crank
( got from Fred) it runs extremely
well, since I wanted to do it only once
I spared no expense, it was worth it.
Relicdog
The pictures aren’t in the correct order, I have pictures of the entire
engine rebuild. I picked only a few
to post.
Picture#1 running motor on dyno
after complete an total motor rebuild
Picture#2 line honing main caps
Picture#3 had to bore 40 over due to
ring groove
Picture#4 block after boring
Picture#5 dynamically balancing motor
Picture#6 motor after assembly an
prep an painted by Maple Hill Restorations.
In all my years around Mustangs an it’s quite a few I’ve never seen an Dearborn built Mustang with the undercarriage red oxide, I could be wrong but I’ve never seen one until this Kar.
On non GT Kars front disc brakes was an option.
Hi Fred,
I’ll send my email address.
Larry
WTB: Nos pitman arm for 65 K-Code
Thanks,
Relicdog
Thanks Fred,
I will let you know when I receive the PCV valve, I asked a question on a different post about door tag dates, In your opinion is it scheduled date or actual build date that’s on door tag.
Thanks,
Larry
Thanks
Fred an Mark I appreciate the info, I’m not worried about the vin. stamped block as much as the same dates with motor assembly an door tag dates being the same.
Like I said read Bob’s comments on this subject.
As far as the vin. stamping on block
the fellow who rebuilt my motor thought the vin. stamping looked correct. This is the same guy who rebuilds (Brants -Va classic mustang) his K-codes an Shelbys motors an also rebuilds motors for ( Maple Hill Restorations) in other words he’s seen his share of vin. stamped blocks, it’s the same date on motor assembly an door tag that I would like your opinion on.
Mark I also have been around Mustangs along time, my senior year in high school 1973 my first Kar was a 1965 K-Code droptop, loved that Kar wish I still owned it.
Thanks,
Larry
I've had my '66 since 2005 and it has all of it's original paperwork. It was ordered on 12/26/65 and built on 4/26/66. So agree with Fred on the difficulty with keeping up with production, on K-Codes at least. Mine is a Dearborn build, and was delivered to Grand Rapids on 4/27/66. So it was built on or most likely a day or so before the scheduled door tag date of 26D. My engine casting date is 3/25/66 (6C25) and was assembled on 4/7/66 (6D07C). I've always heard engine assy. dates to be several weeks to several months ahead of the Build Date, but never the same day. If the casting date pre-dates the engine assembly date, and the stamped VIN is correct to the Kar, then I suppose it's possible. If the VIN is missing or the stamp font/characters look wonky, or not in the right location, then I'd say not. There's also a Date Code stamp on the oil pan sealing service that should coincide with the assembly date as well. To be continued????
Mark
NEVER may be the wrong word to use when we’re talking about Ford
Production back in 65. My Kar is also
Dearborn built, the motor casting date is 5-24-65 the assembly date is 6-8-65 (this is same date as door tag) an yes the block is vin. stamped in the right location, not sure what you mean by wonky but the numbers an letters are not perfectly straight an the stamping is light an heavier in spots.If you go to old posts in Research section page 3 Bob Mannell talks about this exact same subject an says it’s possible an he’s had a Fairlane with the same dates.
Another member also had the same
dates with his Kar.
I’m not looking for a debate or argument, just looking for correct info so when I decide to sell my Kar
I won’t be false advertising any info.
Any help on this subject would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Larry
Picture taking at Endless Summer
Cruising Ocean City, Md. the other
pictures are various stages of complete an total motor rebuild.