Thanks Fred,
the vin. stamp on my transmission
is on the bottom, maybe it’s in the wrong location.
Relicdog
Thanks Fred,
the vin. stamp on my transmission
is on the bottom, maybe it’s in the wrong location.
Relicdog
Pulled steering box an sent to Dan at
( Chockostang) for rebuild, installing
today, but it’s been snowing here, so will post results when weather allows.
Relicdog
For a Dearborn Kar, is vin. stamp on
transmission in correct location.
Relicdog
I to want to wish everyone a merry Christmas, it’s been a tough year, I was one of the unfortunate ones who was infected with COVID 19 I’m
starting to feel a little better now, it’s been a tough road, haven’t had the Kar out in awhile.My sympathy to all others that was affected by this horrible pandemic.
Relicdog
Happy Thanksgiving from the east coast, can’t exercise Kar children an grand children are visiting, an yes I’m grateful for everything,
Relicdog
After changing to manual steer idler arm everything turned out fine, I’ve been told the power steering idler arm should have worked but for some reason it presented a problem.
Any way all is fine now, going for alignment soon I’m thinking or should I say trying for 2positive on caster, .5 or .75 negative on camber an 1/16 - 1/8 on toe in. I’m open to suggestions if anyone knows a better setup.
Thanks,
Relicdog
Thanks Fred,
The idler arm that I was using has teeth, I have one without teeth, hopefully that fixes my problem, I will post results.
Relicdog
Which idler arm has metal teeth, power, manual or both.
Relicdog
I did the work, followed all torque specs, assembled according to manual, was supposed to be assembly line originals, purchased from J. D. Larson ( all classic motors)
Maybe the wrong idler arm, people say Manuel an power are the same what’s your opinion on that.
Relicdog
After rebuilding front end the drag link is making contact with starter when turning wheel all the way to right. Replaced all tie rods, drag link, Idler an bracket an had front end alignment, any suggestions on possible cause.
Relicdog
I use Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 10-30 Plus I add Cam Shield every oil change.
Thanks Evan,
Finding original trans. would be great, since the Kar has original vin.
stamped engine.
Phone # 540-247-4596
Relicdog
Still looking for transmission for
5F09K753346
Evan,
on the previous forum before the crash I wrote a 3 part story on the risks of buying kars at auction, an I’m
talking from experience because it
happened to me. The Kar I purchased at auction was advertised
as being totally rebuilt, motor, trans.
rearend, undercarriage etc. etc. it was totally false, so whenever I do
anything to the Kar I go all the way,
then I know it’s correct.
Relicdog
Evan,
I wanted the motor to look an run
great, I did a lot more than what
the pictures show, replaced everything internally even the crank
( got from Fred) it runs extremely
well, since I wanted to do it only once
I spared no expense, it was worth it.
Relicdog
The pictures aren’t in the correct order, I have pictures of the entire
engine rebuild. I picked only a few
to post.
Picture#1 running motor on dyno
after complete an total motor rebuild
Picture#2 line honing main caps
Picture#3 had to bore 40 over due to
ring groove
Picture#4 block after boring
Picture#5 dynamically balancing motor
Picture#6 motor after assembly an
prep an painted by Maple Hill Restorations.
In all my years around Mustangs an it’s quite a few I’ve never seen an Dearborn built Mustang with the undercarriage red oxide, I could be wrong but I’ve never seen one until this Kar.
On non GT Kars front disc brakes was an option.
Hi Fred,
I’ll send my email address.
Larry
WTB: Nos pitman arm for 65 K-Code
Thanks,
Relicdog