Posts by HipoDunc

A block from January 66' through May...... A Dearborn block ? Thanks. Anyone?

Marv, I am interested in your low profile rally pac...please send pictures...Thanks...

looking for a door tag, and/or a engine block for the above....it came out of PA....working on a possible restoration on this car....the block can obviously be close and not necessarily the original....thanks

Thanks, I will look for clean pair of painted ones....Anyone have a pair? Thanks

Fred, are yours gone?

well...third dropping of the pan and super cleaning of everything... windage tray, threw out my amsoil, [ dang, that hurt...] new oil pump shaft, fired up and 58 psi at idle with the new pump...drove it, and it runs strong... after four figures of cash and three days of work....fbvut..got my K back....urther improvements will have to wait....

Quote from chucks302

One way to keep the valves closed while removing the springs is to feed a piece of cloth clothes line into the spark plug hole before the piston comes all the way up to TDC then rotate the crank by slowly by hand to TDC that should keep the valves closed for you to do what you need to do, leave some of the string hanging out of the plug hole so you can just pull it out after you have the springs back on the valves,

well there's a new one on me....stuff it in when BDC and then bring the piston upmight not need a lot of clothes line...or the piston might not reach TDC....

Quote from chucks302

Back in the day of the oil rubber umbrella 289 intake & exhaust valve seals they would become hard & very brittle over time then break apart in very small black pieces ,follow the oil path return down to the oil pan and through the oil pump screen and lock up the pump or break the pump shaft , what do your valve seals look like ,

At this point, I don't know...I think I would need to remove the springs/rockerto see them....it's running now but the problem has not been solved. Thinking to pressurize the cylinder to hold vales and pull the rocker and the springs on all the valves and remove all the seals... any ideas on how to hold the valves from slipping into the cylinder?

The little hot rod 289 that came with my K code has troubles....after dropping the pan to see what I had for a rotating mass, I saw stock rods, but...hold it...a windage tray! and a double roller chain driving the cam, and a hipo balancer...looking good I'm thinking...but there are tiny bits of what looks like hardened rubber, half the size of a sunflower seed, or smaller.... hmmmm. but moving right along...we Fill it with a good high zinc Amsoil synthetic. fire. it up, oil pressure at idle is 56psi,,,lovely,,and the engine quits...won't restart...start digging.... the rotor is not turning...!!! the sheer pin on the distributor shaft has sheered. ...wierd. replace...turn the engine over...won't start...investigate....shaft to oil pump sheered....drain and drop the pan... pull pump, (I have a new Melling)...lookiing in the pump itself...nothing really noteable....new shaft, reassemble and oil it back up..starts..quickly slows, rod noise...shut down...pull everything down again.... shaft is twisted tight worse than a piece of red licorice....those bits again...???? they are small enough to get through the pickup screen...trying now to eliminate any bits from what ever we can find.....engine teardown...??? what to do ??? ideas???

I have a HiPo carb that I want to get rebuilt. who are recommended ? Please be specific if you can...Thanks

I have a family friend who has the bug....any known K codes for sale? From just running to concourse trailered ? Thanks.

Kudos from a long time hipo subscriber for getting after your fastback love affair and rejoining us other fanatics.

Welcome back to the hard core hipo gang...we were not ready to let it go. post some details of your interests.. photo?

Welcome to the remnants of the old exchange and join the new members in helping create the Hipo corner of the internet. I first gained interest in the Hipo's while at Laredo AFB in the spring of '66. A GT350 was calling me but I opted for a Swift 125...and a '57 Caddy with air so I could stay cool in southern Texas!! This I expect will be a helpful site for you...I later bought a '65 GT350 from a friend and that was the beginning of a Hipo love affair.

This car is for sale in the Stuart/Palm City area. I haven't inspected it in detail, but it has been restored and belongs to a local collector who is willing to sell. not advertised. I was offered first shot at it. Although they paid $65k, they may be willing to let it go for less. send a PM if you have an interest. I may find a way to post a couple of pictures. It is rarely driven, only to get some exercise.

I had a thought. Perhaps an offer to Hank, to help to overcome his reluctance..... Hank there must be a reason you are silent....are you waiting for...??? something we can provide?

Very glad to hear of your return....there are so many out there that I wish we could reach. There is so much hipo information on our Kars that is still held by Hank from the old Forum...information that we all thought was in the public domain, but now appears to be held as private property although nothing was paid for those contributions....I hope that we soon see all of those historical archives returned to the public domain so that the momentum established over the years can be revived. Long live the Hipo Forum through the High Performance Mustang! Thank you Nicco!

Fred, sorry, it's in Florida.....Mustang gold winner....

Quote from DaveZ

Longblock motor intake to oil pan has 6F07K VIN stamp, heads dated 5L4, block assembly date 6A26

C4 auto K trans, has C servo C5TP-7D027 A

still assembled components. Taking offers on each assemblies
If you have a Hertz car these may be what your looking for
In VA. PM for info, pics

Dave,
these would work for me I think. check PM...thanks

Welcome!! Montana has seen many fast moving Mustangs over the years, Your car looks fabulous, and a sister to my 66 coupe!