You looking for a complete T10?
Posts by CharlesTurner
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Yes you can. The car is judged exactly the same as if it was a driven concours car, but obviously your class designation is not the same as if you had entered driven concours.
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Not to be picky, but the "Steve McQueen" green is actually Highland Green, which is a '68 color. The '67 green was called Dark Moss Green and is quite different than the '68 color.
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I would suggest you post an example of one of your stampings. Are you using a fixture or stamping each character individually?
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When stripping the lower parts that are gold zinc plated, the results would be better if some 320 sandpaper is used to smooth out the metal after bead blasting.
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It's a 4D1, let me know if you're interested.
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I think I have a March or April 4V intake, will check tonight.
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If parts prices weren't crazy enough, they just keep getting worse! If anyone has any parts to sell, it seems now is a good time!
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You're confusing assembly plant with stamping plant. The sheet metal parts were made at stamping plants and then sent to the assembly plant.
The '07' in your VIN doesn't tell you the factory where it was made, '07' is just the code for a 2 door coupe. The second character is for the plant. F is Dearborn, R is San Jose and T is Metuchen.
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Those are date codes. There are different formats used throughout the parts on the car.
4F02B is June 2, 1964, B shift
8 11 D3 is August 11, 3rd shift at Dearborn plant
8 24 C is August 24, Cleveland plant (not uncommon for shift code to be missing)
Note: Sheetmetal is not year-stamped, just month and day.
Also, keep in mind that Ford service replacement sheetmetal uses a different stamp, like 'A 65', or if the plant is 'W' for Woodhaven, you know it's replacement sheetmetal. This is an area overlooked on a lot of restored mustangs. If you want a true numbers matching car, the sheet metal dates on the car should fit with when the car was built.
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I've never had a problem with any of the AMK hardware not working or fitting. The only problem is that markings or finish sometime do not match up with originals that came off a car.
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The "Z bar" being referred to is the shifter linkage. The area where this attaches to the block would be the driver side rear bottom, just above the oil pan.
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He sold me a bunch of "extras" from his car, which included a beautifully powder coated bellhousing. Sorry Rus, I just can't let that one go!
Hope the one Rich has works for you. -
This VIN stamped, rebuilt HEH-T transmission was NOT SOLD by eBay seller "europroxi". Reserve was not met with a high bid of $710.00.
DESCRIPTION:
This is one of the best 4 speed toploaders you can find, period. I bought this unit more than 20 years ago from a Ford dealer and never used or looked back to it. Until some month's ago, I took it from the self to find out that this complete unit came out of a 1965 K-code Mustang Fastback. VIN number is stamped on the underside of gear case. All the yellow paint marks were still visible.
Knowing that this is a low mileage unit, I decided to open it and give it a full rebuild. I do have many experiences on Mustang transmissions, engines, etc... Once the transmission was disassembled it became very obvious that there was no or very minimal normal wear on any of the gears, shafts, shift forks, thrust washers, and other parts. I ordered a high quality rebuild kit with SKF bearings, and did the full rebuild. Everything was done and adjusted by the book. Based on my experience, I can only confirm that this unit will operate perfect and shifts like new!!!!
The unit comes complete with original shift mechanism, fork, and speedometer cable connection with correct bolts for rear transmission support. This unit is ready to install, and only needs an oil fill. Included in this listing is a picture of the old parts which came out of the transmission.
Please understand that this is a perfect, low mileage, fully rebuilt and hard to find original HiPo 4-speed Mustang transmission. Many hours were spent to inspect and assemble correctly. Ready to use. I do have a reserve price on this unit. Please only bid if you are serious.
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Another Z2 radiator here too... auto trans cooler lines at the bottom.
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All parts on the motor would have to be dated before the assembly date.
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I would say that is more "orange" than red-oxide and if you found the same color on the steering linkage, then this was definitely done by a previous owner. The drag link and tie rods should not have any paint on them.
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Couple pics from one of the cars I restored:
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Did he phosphate the shift rods or are they cast blast paint? The shifter cage should be zinc plated.
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Quote from 66KGT
Why wouldn't a 5A base be painted blue originally if they made a ton of them? Anyone ever see a base dated earler than 6A (which could be too late for my Jan 12 kar). Anyone with a nov, dec, jan 66 kar have a 5A base? If not what date code?
Could be a number of reasons. For instance, different paint requirements for dress-up kits.
A Nov/Dec 65 or Jan 66 would most likely NOT have had a 5A base from the assembly plant.
