Have an HEH-T in a Feb '65 K convertible. Hopefully the "book" will be proof-read a little better when the next version comes out.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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Yes, it appears quicker today. I noticed some database messages last night when I couldn't access it.
It had pretty much become the norm that I would click the hpmx bookmark I have and then go to another browser and do something else while I was waiting for hpmx to come up. Click on a forum, go to another window, click on a thread, go to another window.
Hopefully things will be better now!
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So why is the website so slow? It's been painful to access this site the last 6 months or more. Is this a money issue? Why can't the web host be changed to a more reliable/quicker one? Participation is dropping off at an alarming rate.
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That's an interesting list. For the most part, I would agree with the shades of black. Additionally, though, gloss is a result of several other factors including the type of paint used (lacquer vs. enamel), the conditions and mixture of the paint, the type of material being covered(cast vs. stamped steel) and whether the part was dipped or sprayed. A good bit of advice was given in the article, which was to replicate what you find on your car. A nice parts washer and mineral spirits go a long way in determining the original finish of parts.
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Sold. Has a new home attached to a '66 Shelby engine.
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Either one would be fine for your car. Some sources say that A/C and or power top cars had the yellow print cap.
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There's a guy here locally that will blast and do an epoxy coating on a pair of exhaust manifolds for about $160. I've had a couple sets done, looks very nice. He cures them at 800F.
Your car should have the ramp-loc bolts. Only the first couple months of production in '66 had the '65 style locks. You could probably get the bolts epoxy coated also, or just use stainless.
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Have a '66 4201 fuel pump for sale. This one may be NOS, but not sure. At the very least it is a Ford re-built pump. The reason I say it might be NOS is because the "nub" at the top still has perfect gold zinc plating which is usually blasted during a rebuild.
The pump has 'CARTER' on the side, so it is the later replacement. It has both springs in it, one on the arm and one up top under the 'nub'. The plating condition isn't the greatest on the bottom portion, but would be presentable once installed. The pump has "4201" stamped on the bottom.
This is a real Ford replacement hi-po fuel pump for a 66-67 K code. Can send pics on request. Would like to get around $750 for it.
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Bob: Have you ever seen a date stamp on a hi-po air cleaner base before 5A?
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I'd expect a car like yours to be priced around $25-35k. With the correct parts, would probably be an easy $30k.
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There seems to be some residual DNS errors from the changeover to the new server, which is usually isolated to some ISP's.
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I usually use either NPD or Va. Mustang. There are different brands of parts which you can inquire about when you order. In NC, I have to pay sales tax if I buy from NPD, so I find myself ordering from Va Mustang more often. Get all your fasteners directly from the AMK website where you can order online. Also, Va. Mustang has online ordering which I prefer, NPD does not.
Always go for the higher quality when it's offered, do not go after cheapest price. Try to obtain NOS Ford when you can, especially for the soft metal parts like hood lip moldings and grille moldings.
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Hagerty has "restoration" insurance, for like $50-100 a year.
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I've noticed that pony interior cars in general usually have a few more options, but the remote mirror was part of the visibility group option and not required with interior decor group.
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You can dull the gold zinc by putting it in boiling water. At least that's what my plater told me. Don't leave it in very long though.
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Looks great!
Not sure how difficult the production process is, but you might want to consider talking to Scott Halseth at NPD about selling bulk. Va. Mustang would most likely be interested also.
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Because they have a 64 1/2 timing cover. Note the blocked off section for the oil filler neck. Most likely a pieced-together motor.
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I thought the other set that went over $1k was crazy!
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Yes, the car is a little rusty, but fixable.
Looks like a decent project for someone.
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This is one of those things that would be tough to nail down to a specific point in production. For San Jose, all I can tell you is that in January/February of '65, the non-indented pedal pads were still being used. For Dearborn, I have seen non-indented on a late May '65 car(disc brake pedal pad).