Dayum! Did she ever reply, I got tired of reading after the 7th page...
Posts by CharlesTurner
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For peace of mind, I would install new bolts.
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It's been a long standing judging rule that 64.5 K codes didn't have the metal shield. If there is evidence to prove contrary, we need to know about it and get the rule changed.
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Quote from iowaDisplay More
it is a great help
how about the very rear of the trunk compartment
where the latch is?
is it painted the exterior color as well?
thanks
iowa
Yes, all exterior color.
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K codes and A/C equipped cars were NOT supposed to have the metal shield on the generator.
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Yes, the early spare tire hold-down utilized a slide instead of a hook.
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Quote from tspiers
All this banter and still not much to go on regarding my original posting. Not that I was looking to be the igniter of such a compelling subject, but I did enjoy reading the varying viewpoints. And the search continues.....thanks to all who kept my posting relevant the past several days.
Are you looking for a project car?
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Original examples, along with a notation in the Ford documentation support that convertibles had the dimmer switch cover.
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Ok, that helps. Like Rich says, they interchanged with other Ford's. The correct length is 15". Galaxie's and some Fairlane's used a 16".
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If he just drew in the characters with a pen to highlight, I can accept that as a reason for the difference. It wouldn't be uncommon for there to be some lightly stamped characters.
Would have had to be a 6 bolt from that time period.
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Can you at least comment on the VIN stampings and how the other 2 hidden ones looked?
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Are we talking wiper blade retainers or wiper arms here?
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The stamping is a little different than I've found on other San Jose cars from that time period...
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That's right, the clamp will not loosen by simply turning out the screw. Turn it most of the way out and then put the deep socket over to tap the top of the clamp. You want the top of the clamp where the screw goes in to be the only contact area of the socket. If the screw is bottomed out in the socket, it won't work.
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The end that is satin on the later one might be able to be polished, but the correct finish on the later '65 style (beveled base) is chrome.
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I remove and re-use these all the time. Just use the long socket like Fred mentioned. The trick is to to have the socket against the top of the tower, not the top of the screw.
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Cool details on that one. There was some major work done to balance it at some point, look at all the holes in the harmonic balancer.
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You can wiggle the tabs back straight with a flat tip screwdriver. You may decide to just replace them though. We've been finding what appears to be originals dipped in black paint before installation.
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Judging by the unit number, this car was probably produced in early March of '65. Any detail related to a cross-flow exhaust would be totally ambiguous at that time in production. If the snubber plate is single exhaust, no doubt the rear build-up is for a single exhaust car.
The VIN stamp that is visible looks like a re-stamp. The '1' is not the correct style and the characters are crooked. There are many cars from San Jose at that time period that have a double impression on the first few characters, which this stamp also does not show. Would be interested in seeing pictures of the other 2 hidden stamps.
Regardless if it has a K VIN stamp, the rest of the car is not a K car and I sure hope someone does their homework to know this.
Strange that there are so many pictures of the undercarriage and not even one picture of the engine bay
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Getting somewhat O/T now. Would be happy to continue the discussion in another thread.
