L is for November
Posts by CharlesTurner
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The extension is usually blacked out in line with the cowl edge. Either taped off and sprayed/brushed or just sprayed/brushed.
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Above the starter area:
[Blocked Image: http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/vert/3_15/3_15_05%20018.jpg]
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He is probably referring to the collective experience of the staff. 2 guys with 30 years is 60 years of experience.
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The '7' of Y7 designates the color as a '67 color, which is common for late '66 cars.
Don't know about the solder, maybe a previous owner repair. If you're laying down a primer first, the rough grit is ok, but it's going to take a lot to fill in the scratches. You probably would have done ok wet-sanding with 220.
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That's over spray from then the car was painted at the factory. Remember that the engine bay was painted after the exterior paint was applied.
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The 5 dial clusters usually used the low profile with the others being used on the Falcon-style cluster. I'm sure dealers would install anything that fit though.
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Because usually the ones that you buy at your local auto parts store are different in design than the original. Sometimes you get lucky though and get a correct one.
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I have always been under the impression that "RALLY-PAC" and the word "MUSTANG" on the tach were the factory installed units. The version without either of the above were dealer items.
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Also seen red crayon marks to denote tightening of bolts/nuts on the suspension. In this case, the yellow mark simply denotes which side the "rib" is on so the assembly line worker knows to point that section down when attaching to the control arm.
With the new MCA website expected to launch in late summer, the club is planning to have a wiki area for information and pictures like this. It should become an invaluable resource to members.
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It seems the evidence is quite conclusive that the MPC dates are in error. A one page supplement to the hi-po book would go great lengths at helping clarify this issue and also the rear frame rail reinforcement issue.
Nobody knows everything and I don't think anyone claims to know everything, I sure don't. But when there is an obvious and quite significant error, it needs to be corrected asap to protect the credibility of the author.
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I also second Halon, but never use it in an enclosed area!
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Lacquer is actually the least durable of all paints and chips the easiest. The most durable would be a catalyzed urethane sprayed with a paint gun.
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Yes, the one all the way on the back wall. All the carbs were painted with cast-blast paint.
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The one I'm restoring probably was a little better as far as the body goes. In production numbers, R code 68.5 fastbacks are rarer than a GT500KR fastback. Pretty much the same car.
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Yes, that is typical for strut rods. The paint daub identified the side with the narrow raised area on the end as this side was specified to point down. Here's a couple NOS strut rods with the yellow marks applied like the originals.
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I hope his '65 K fastback doesn't have power steering!
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You have a replacement balancer. Originals are getting kinda pricey these days.
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Thanks for the heads up. I ran into a carb dealer at the Columbus parts swap who had obvious hi-po carb FAKES. Auto choke holes filled in and filed down and crooked numbers re-stamped on the base. The seller wasn't at his booth, wish I could have gotten a card so I could post their info here. It was quite appaling what they had done to the carbs.
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Just remember that the date on the door tag is the scheduled build date and can be off as much as days or weeks before or after.
Depending on how long ago the car was shown at an MCA show, there may be some records. But, the only records would be the VIN recorded and maybe what shows the car was entered in. If it was over 5 years ago, MCA would most likely not have any information about the car.
