Where you show the car and what class you enter it in will depend to what extent the judges check items like paint daubs.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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Hehe, come on over... I promise we don't bite!
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Horns are all black.
Steering column is the same color as the interior (painted off the car).
MCA Rules would be a good source of info like this. They are available online for members at http://www.mustang.org
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You want engineering numbers (stamped into the pipes) or the part number used by the service parts division for ordering?
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The 428CJ pump would be a 4441S, not sure about the 428PI or others!
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This set of used heads was SOLD for $800 by eBay seller "strikerskia".
BuyItNow set at $800
(These only lasted a little more than a couple hours once posted...)
DESCRIPTION:
*********MATCHED SET***********
FORD 289 "K" CODE HI-PO HEADS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION. PREVIOUSLY CHECKED FOR CRACKS. MATCHED SET. C50E CASTING. 4L16 DATE CODES. IF YOU ARE BUILDING A VINTAGE 289 HIGH PERFORMANCE MOTOR, THESE ARE THE PARTS FOR YOU. THANKS FOR LOOKING AND GOOD LUCK!
[Blocked Image: http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-6/1263969/heads041607.jpg]
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DIF: Dearborn Industrial Foundry
I had thought the E5 was a date code, but maybe not? Here's a couple springs from a '65 GT, May build date:
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It was a female I talked to, but she was very adament that they were not the original supplier to Ford.
I sure don't know who was, might have been made by Ford at the DIF.
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I thought the first character of the date on fuel pumps would be the year... 8=1968 in this case.
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I had heard a while back that Eaton was the OEM supplier to Ford for the Mustang leaf springs in the 60's, but when I ordered springs once, I asked them about that and they said it was not true. They simply have the engineering drawings for all the springs.
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Quote from kgtman
I also believe that there was an option called the "Competition Suspension". What we are trying to do is define exactly what the competition suspension consisted of. Please chime in if you have knowledge about this package.
Yes, I think you are right, just confusing some terminology.
The link I gave to the VMF thread covers a good amount of what was included, if not all of it.
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Right, but on the bottom of page 178, as Marv indicated, it is quoted "note- all 1967 K-Codes were GTs and equipped with the Competition Handling Package"
The Comp. handling package was a separate option and not part of the GT package.
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Marv, are you saying all '67 GT's came with 15" wheels? (as that is part of the comp handling package)???? If so, that is a serious error in the book.
This has been discussed previously on VMF:
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There was a totally stripped K fastback for sale the other day on ebay. Why don't you consider something like this and then transfer all of the parts?
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But you are NOT using a "replacement" body, you are using a 65/66 fastback that started out with a specific VIN from Ford Motor Company which you plan to cut out and replace with a K VIN.
You obviously are doing this for personal profit since you mention disclosing it to a prospective buyer.
With the cost of parts these days, you could probably do better selling all the K parts separately. You sure you want a fake K code on your conscience? Honestly, why bother?
Dynacorn bodies will be extremely easy to spot. It's not like they are duplicating date codes and every alignment notch for the sheet metal components. Besides, the target market for these is the eleanor crowd anyway. You won't see someone paying $14k for a bare unibody to do a concours restoration.
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I'll be there, arriving Thursday.
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There really isn't a good spot to stamp a VIN on the rear inner fenders. I believe that Ford only intended to stamp the front two inner fenders on 67/8 cars, either 2 or 3 times.
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Any numbers you come up with are purely fictional. With a specialty car like a K code, typical ordering practices would not have been consistent with C or A codes, or for T codes for that matter. Generally, if someone was going to pay the extra $$ for K code, they might have been more apt to add a few more options.
Just be content with the fact that you have a rare car and don't worry about playing the numbers game.
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Quote from LuvKcodes
OK, if you had to make the decision, would you forever destroy the K code? Or would you remove whatever you could from the K code and combine it with the donor car and turn it into the K code using the K vin stamped inner fenders and title to document it as a K? If you restore the car as a K it will be worth at least twice what it would be worth as a C and probably not cost appreciably more. If your restoration is reasonably faithful you will be putting a rare, collectible K code back on the street. If you restore the car as a C code... who cares? There are thousands of them.
The end experience can still be achieved by simply transferring all the parts to another car. It is unnecessary to change the VIN. When you close the hood you can't see the VIN anyway!
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I'm not saying "only". The '67's I have seen and owned have the VIN stamped on the front 2 inner fenders.
For 65/66, the driver side front was supposed to be stamped in the "visible" area and then the rear 2 inner fenders have the VIN stamped on them. There are plenty of 65/66 cars that do not follow this rule though.
