Natural, unpainted.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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Quite impressive! Although, we have no way of knowing if the transaction will actually be completed.
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Going by memory, I think it's just a date like 4 65. I can check tomorrow if someone else doesn't answer definitively.
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Concur. I have 6 NOS '65 SS wheels and they all have K/H and date stamps on the inside of the rim where the tire would cover.
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Not sure I follow that. D code 64.5 production was probably around 30% of the total Mustangs built from March to August '64.
The D code is not much of an engine with dish pistons and low compression ratio. Factory rated at 210hp while the A code 225hp, when it was first introduced, had the same compression ratio as a K code at 10.5:1. It was later downgraded slightly, due to the addition of valve reliefs in the pistons to around 10.1:1 ratio, which required premium fuel like the K engine. A 2V C code was only 10hp less than a D code.
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No surprises, Ford service parts are notorious for fit and finish issues. The NOS glove box insert I have has the wrong size screw nuts, meaning you can't use factory style screws to attach it! I'll eventually rob the speed nut fasteners off a repro one day...
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Quote from r.states
very early K car, Henry Ford II?
Uh, no... how about a regular ol' D code intake?
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Sorry for that reply. I've been meaning to change the shifter knob on an '05 Ford GT and it has a hex nut base, sorry about the confusion!

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It certainly would be a nice car to drive and have fun with, but a car built like that (I'm avoiding the word restoration here) really shouldn't be judged as a "correct" car at national shows. The reality of the matter is that the car is actually modified and should be represented as such.
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If it's the car I suspect it is, the owner has shown it at many MCA events. For a while, he was adamant that the car was correct and the dealer accessories were realistic. The unfortunate truth is that for someone to have installed all those K components on a C code car would have ended up costing something like 3 times what it would have cost to simply order a K code. It was way too far fetched, and I think that the owner, after a while, realized the same. I judged it a couple times at MCA shows in concours, don't remember the results, but I did take off for excessive dealer-installed options. It's a very nice car, but too far fetched to represent something that a dealer would have delivered to the original owner (which is how MCA concours cars are judged).
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Red with a vinyl top?
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Quote from 65gt
Would the early short bend shifter always come with the bolted-to-the-floor shift boot retainer, rather than the chrome floating plate?
Don't know for sure, but I don't ever recall seeing a shifter bezel plate with the curved arm... only with the straight.
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Rear valence: Top middle, reverse stamped so you can't see it very well from the front
Front valence: Top, over to the driver side on one of the tabs
Rock panel: On top, usually driver side, reverse stamped
Grille support: Bottom
Hood: Driver side back by the hood hinge, reverse stamped
Trunk lid: Usually stamped in 2 places, bottom edge underneath and along one of the ribs, bottom edge is top stamped, rib is reverse stamped
Doors: Stamped inside behind the door panel for the inner piece and the outer skin is stamped close to where the vent window attaches, where you can't see once it goes in.
Pot metal parts: sometimes are hard to tell, may have a circle with numbers and a pointer to the date code
All other welded sheet metal that makes up the unibody will have a date stamp on it somewhere. This includes inner fenders, quarter panels, cowl panels, etc...
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The change happened sometime in the Fall of '64, probably around October '64. Your May '65 car would have the normal curved 4 speed shifter.
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Quote from 350gt66
My 66 fastback has all original sheet metal and paint as I can figure. The front lower pan as well as the rear lower pan have dents. Are these parts date coded? I think I should fix them and save as much original paint as I can. I would like opinions on this. Thanks in advance. Les
Yes, all sheet metal parts are dated, as well as bumpers and almost everything else on the car!
The tricky thing is knowing the difference between original Ford sheet metal date stamps and some of the later Ford service replacement part date stamps. The original sheet metal should be stamped like "5 14 D2", whereas you may find a Ford NOS part with "A 65". For most owners and cars, this is not a big deal, but if you want a real numbers matching car, then you'll want to pay attention to these kinds of details.
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VIN stamp sure looks fishy...
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Sometimes the obvious is so.... well... obvious!
Still learning about these cars, that's what makes it so interesting!


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Trans crossmember depends on assembly plant. Dearborn was typically natural, Metuchen black. Don't recall San Jose.
Door hinge springs would be body color.
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I've also wondered that too. Maybe they were locator holes for the fan motor that were put in the wrong place and they didn't bother to change the tooling?