Posts by CharlesTurner

Super glue is probably your best bet.

The convertible quarter glass frames are easily ID'd by the "76" in the engineering number cast into the bottom part.

Charcoal black was not used until '67, it has a metallic in it.

65-66 was semi-flat, low lustre black.

Seen a lot of those. Must have been a manufacturing "efficiency".

Bo: That would be my guess also.

Ralph: Yes, I have an original disc pedal pad with no indentation.

I usually blast parts like that, followed with 320 grit sanding, a nice coat of epoxy primer and then a semi-gloss topcoat.

They were used way into '65 production. I had a May '65 Dearborn car without the grooved edges. Disc brake car too, with disc pedal and no indentation.

Or a shill bidder...

Never seen the marking on a service replacement gas tank, only seen the "C5ZZ.." part number stenciled on top.

Have an early Feb. '65 San Jose coupe that has the logo on it, dated 11 64 if I remember right. The car is located in a storage warehouse right now, will try to get a pic of the tank sometime.

Would agree that the scheduled build date is probably too early to be a factory GT.

Yes, hydraulic lifters are perfectly fine. If you use them with a set of Magnum roller tip rockers, it will sound just like it has solid lifters!

Returned to "stock" eh?

Sure... if you think a motor from a car 5+ years newer is putting your car back "stock".

That dent is interesting! I'd like to know the story on that one. Strut rod attaching area looks pretty beat up.

Someone check on the unit number. The Feb date might be a little early for this car.

Fog light switch hole does not appear to be in the right location.

That Shelby pic is not definitive. That shifter could be a curved one that is up in 1st or 3rd with the pic taken.

I thought there were only 2 types of shifter handles, the straight ones used on the early 64.5 through early 65 cars and then the normal curved shifter.

What do you guys mean by short bend?

Quote from LuvKcodes

I agree with your rationale. But I have a friend who restores Mustangs and does virtually all the work himself, all mechanical, body and paint. He sends out what requires specialists to do, as we all would. This cuts his restoration costs to a minimum.

I would roughly estimate this car would require $10,000 in parts but could easily run $15,000 or more to get the right K stuff if it's not on the car in restorable condition. Even if you consider your hundreds of hours of labor to be free, that makes the cost about $32-37K. Considering all the labor it would take, I can't see restoring a car at this cost when you could likely buy a similar restored car for under $40,000.

One thing for sure you're right about, "the cost of restoration is always more than anticipated," often way over budget.

And let's not forget that this type of restoration would not be to concours level. Add in the cost of NOS or mint original parts and the cost skyrockets!

John,

If you saved your dash card, with your classification number, look on the back and it will have the instructions for getting your judging sheets. MCA only keeps them for a short time, so you need to request them asap. If you don't have the card let me know.

-Charles

Just checked one of the NOS '65 SS wheels. It has '4 65' on one of them, stamped irregular below '5 x 14 J'. The Kelsey Hayes stamp is circular with all the letters to both words spelled out (no "K/H")