Yep, bottom of bumper on driver side, will be a code like 5 13 2M
Posts by CharlesTurner
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An even better place would be the cobra jet forum:
http://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php
If it's a stripped shell without the original drivetrain, it still has value, but not a whole lot more than a comparably equipped smallblock.
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Thanks for sharing!
My blue '65 fastback was sold to a fella in Zurich. Wonder if he is part of the local club. His name is Rolf Odermatt.
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Wasn't true with Mustangs, maybe others. Mercury cars built on the same assembly line had different unit numbers.
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In addition to what others have said, you might try putting the car in 3rd on an incline and dumping the clutch. Sometimes this will help burn off and irregularities of the clutch disc. Can't hurt to try, but it will smell gawd awful!
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I've made stencils of the driveshaft markings. Lay a piece of clear plastic over the original and tape the ends. Cut out the characters with a razor. Spray the stencil onto a piece of cardboard with yellow paint and allow it to dry, this will make the stencil more rigid and easier to use later.
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Quote from 289route66
The first car built was 5F07F100001; therefore, the car you saw was the 5,735th car built. Ford had already begun building cars in early March.
That's technically not correct, the 105735 car was more simply the 5,735th car assigned a VIN. Due to scheduling/batching, it is very unlikely that this car was actually the 5,735th Mustang built. When an order was received from a dealer, a VIN was assigned and the date set that the car was scheduled to be built.
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Let's not jump to conclusions here without knowing all the facts. The car might indeed may be an original K code, but maybe had the inner fender replaced due to accident damage or rust.
Was the rear snubber plate checked? That usually will answer the "re-body" question.
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If you paid through Paypal, you should have some recourse through ebay. You should immediately file a claim.
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Because the current owner is a dealer?
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It wouldn't make sense for someone to buy the car thinking they can bring it up to show standards. It would have to be taken completely apart for that. As it is now, it's just a weekend driver, priced right if that's how you want to keep it.
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The changeover to cast iron waterpumps happened around the end of May - early June of '65. The only difference between a regular 289 waterpump and a K code waterpump is the impeller. Same markings on outside.
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I vaguely remember some kind of ink stamps on mufflers, but don't recall that they were USS stamps.
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It's a regular ol' PPG acrylic enamel code. Should be readily available in *most* states.
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There is no paint code, per se, for a steering wheel since they were molded in colored plastic. My recommendation is to take your original wheel to a paint refinish supply store and ask them to match the color.
You are right though that there was a subtle contrast between the wheel and painted area of the dash.
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The original spokes were chrome.
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And don't try sanding out the "brushed chrome" area to make it appear more like satin! The chrome is extremely thin! I tried this with some 1500 grit paper, went right through the chrome! (*&(#*@($(@$
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Most of the 10-64 dated transverse mufflers are probably leftovers from when they were phased out. The manufacturer must have done one more run after the leftovers were boxed up.
