Found the same on quite a few San Jose cars built around that time period. If you clean the bottom of the front frame rails under the engine bay, you will most likely find red-oxide there. That's how the K convertible (Feb '65 SJ) was that I restored and how it was put back.
Seat belt locations sound right for that time period.
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Charles, Would this also be true if a car had EARLY RED OXIDE NOS quarters?
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I've got a red-oxide convertible quarter, NOS from about 1977 or so. The non-gasket quarter does not fit flush to the edge, it comes short by about 1/8". I brought this up a while back, while accidentally checking quarter extensions. The gasket extension does not fit an original '65 quarter, it hangs over the inner edge. The gasket extension fits the red-oxide quarter perfectly.
Edited by - caspian65 on 02/01/2011 21:23:09
Different for different plants. Seeing one screw on Dearborn and Metuchen and 2 screws on San Jose... and then some here and there either way.
You need the style without the gasket.
Be aware that if you have replacement quarter panels, the early ones might not fit.
Believe the correct screws will depend on the assembly plant. Found 'D' on Dearborn cars and 'CF' on San Jose. I'm not so sure that the original straps were simply cut/made from radiator hose. Might have been similar material, but the original ones I've seen are not smooth.
I would like to restore the K, but there are about 5 cars I have to do first. Probably a minimum of 3 years before I could do any type of restoration work. Someone else could make a real nice car out of it.
Thanks for the education!
The manifold bolts typically have an 'F' in the middle. AMK sells the kit with the washers.
You probably would want ceramic coating if you decide to go that route. Although, I confess that I don't completely know the difference between powder coat and ceramic coat.
Thinking of selling my '65 K fastback. Have a couple folks that I mentioned it to privately, but now that I've made the big step to actually consider selling, thought I would post up here to gauge interest. I am simply looking to get my investment back out of it. Paid $24k for it as a running/driving car about 2 years ago. Have bought approximately $10-12k worth of parts, some of them Shelby upgrades.
The car came out of Oklahoma a while back, was in a personal collection. It's originally caspian blue with medium blue std. interior. It was built in Jan '65 at DAP, so too early to be a GT or have deluxe interior. It is an original Arvinode exhaust K car. The drive train is completely original with matching VIN stamped block and trans. It has never been wrecked or rusted out, has all original sheet metal except for the front/rear valences, which I have Ford replacements. The car is currently disassembled down to a rolling shell as I was not happy with the paint. It was probably a 10 footer before, could have used some touch-up here and there to make presentable, but I would rather just give it a complete job. My plans were to knock the suspension off, put it on a rotisserie and do the top/bottom. I have most everything to put it back together. Mechanically, the car was in great shape before tear-down, so shouldn't need a motor overhaul or anything like that. It originally had disc brakes, which I have, it also had an 8k rally-pac and I was going to install a console in it. The plans were to make it a nice street-able car, not a show queen.
Like I mentioned, just looking to get back the $$ I put into it, which is around $35k. Probably will seem high and I understand that, but I also do not have to sell it either. If anyone is seriously interested, send me an e-mail using the E-mail User function in my hpmx profile. I'm not going to advertise this anywhere else.
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Charles is installing the transmission and engine the same way Ford did it on the assembly line back in the day. They did it in just a few seconds at that time. Unfortunately the video showing this assembly on You Tube has been pulled.
-Fred-
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Based on period photos and that music video of DAP, yes.
I find it easiest to install the engine with the exhaust manifolds on, H-pipe bolted and the trans/bellhousing attached to the motor.
If you're going for concours-correct, the exhaust manifolds would have had engine color over spray, which would be hard to do once the engine is in the car.
C5DA is the right one, they're date coded too, if you want to get picky.
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I don't intend to hijack, but when did Ford start putting the extra bracing in the engine compartment for the Mustang Convertibles? Like many early cars, this one doesn't have them.
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It was added around November '64.
Where in NC are you? What color console are you looking for? I have an NOS full-length shell, red.
Don't know if unmolested is the right word to describe it. Looks like a pretty decent car, warranty plate might be a reproduction, but not 100% sure.
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Do you think its a 22F unit? not picking on the car, I'm just curious.
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It looks like a normal 24F size. Agree with Fred about the caps, usually for service batteries with lower CCA rating. Believe it was the cheapest battery line offered through Ford parts in the late 60's, maybe early 70's too.
Jim Cowles has the correct leaf spring clamps. http://www.shelbyparts.com He might have the correct 9" studs too.
Dayum! Did she ever reply, I got tired of reading after the 7th page...
