Hopefully you got the plenum that isn't tar coated! 
Posts by CharlesTurner
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Quote from dgstang
The way that I read his post is that this car is the original Shelby that was damaged. Then the Shelby parts were taken off of this one and put onto a different donor car and the pony interior from that car ended up in this original Shelby.
Agreed. Why even bother mentioning what the original color was or what the mileage is. Both are totally irrelevant.
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It's not a Shelby, at least not the same one that was converted by Shelby American in 1966. In my opinion, this car is nothing more than a K code with Shelby parts, or simply a Shelby clone. If it was my car, the Shelby tag would come off and be sent to SAAC and indicate to them that the original car was destroyed.
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He's an ex-parts manager for Ford... what numbers do you think are embedded in his head?!
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The pics that the seller added of the hidden VIN's looks legit... much better than the visible stamp, which is obviously not an original stamp.
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Disc brakes on a 65-66 K code were optional equipment. As I mentioned before, with a K code, you have a few things to check for it being a real GT (and really these do not prove but rather the absence can disprove).
For a '66 K code, things to check:
-Disc brake install (prop valve in right location with locater tab hole punched through.
-Fog light install, proper hole or holes in radiator support with correct wiring and switch hole in proper location
-Fenders with proper letter and badge holes, assuming they are original. It's a bolt-on part, so could easily be changed, but if dates are consistent with car, would hope they are original.
-Rocker panels with no holes for rocker moldings (all NON-GT fastbacks should have had rocker moldings)
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I've usually seen 2 wiring brackets used, but I'm sure some slipped through with 1.
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For point of reference, the undercarriage pic is of a '65 GT convertible, A code, built at Dearborn in late May '65.
If you've got several hours to burn, there's hundreds of pics of that car here: http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/vert/
I sold it at Russo & Steele in Jan '06, the car currently resides in a collection near LA.
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If it's a Metuchen car, a build sheet is usually taped to the main wiring harness behind the instrument cluster.
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Install on the motor mount to engine bolts. The 'P' points down.
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If it's a Metuchen-built car and the buck tag does not have 'PIO' then chances are unlikely that it was a GT. Have you found a build sheet? The GT option is also called out on the build sheet.
Otherwise, there are only a couple things to look for on a '66 K code, which would be the disc brake installation and fog lights.
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Ford did service the arvinode rear floor hangers. I've been able to buy NOS ones of those. Never seen the frame rail ones though. Have originals to use on the cars I'm restoring.
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Believe that they knocked the old one off with a chisel or punch. The replacement kit with filter came with a new fitting for the bottom, so it doesn't matter if you mar it up with a chisel.
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Agree with Dave, I've never used a Gold or Red Rotunda filter on an MCA concours car.
One clarification though... MCA does allow the red or gold, in addition to the filter being painted block color.
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There has become quite a following of those in the hobby interested in fox body Mustangs. Ebay is a good place to check first for parts, see lots of 80's NOS stuff on there.
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It's getting where the best thing to do is simply restore as many original parts from your car as possible.
Did buy a bunch of repro stuff recently for a '67 convertible I'm putting together. One of the items is a washer bag. Went to put it on the car last night and noticed one of the brass rivets was totally missing! How the heck can you let something like that go by? The bag was in a clear plastic bag, so it's not like it was obscured by packaging. Now I have to carry this down to a trim shop and have a rivet put on... grrrrrr!
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Don't even get me started on repro parts....
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