Posts by CharlesTurner

Nice page Joe!

One question... in any of the drawings, is there mention of the locater tab cut-out on the intermediate pipes where they connect to the H-pipe?

MCA used to have a rule that a mustang had to have a scheduled build date after Jan 1, 1965 to be acceptable as a GT. We got that changed to mid-February. a few years back My personal opinion is that actual GT production did not begin until mid to late March '65. I wrote an article for Mustang Times on this when we made the rule change. Not withstanding VIN data, additional support came from the fact that the updated dealer price sheet did not even come out until sometime in late March '65, which had the GT and deluxe interior options listed. Basically, dealers would have to wait for the new price sheet to even know the option was available.

If you look in the Smart/Haskel production guide, GT's start showing up with some consistency at the end of March '65 and later. The earlier ones would be subject to debate, unless they are some type of pre-production show car or test mule.

Quote from 65shelby

Judging by the s/n, it's too early to be a factory GT car. I've got a '65 A-code 5F09A317XXX and it's a Nov.'64 car. I realize it's a Metuchen built, but my guess is it's an Aug-Sept. '64 early fastback. Possibly too early for the Deluxe interior as well, not sure.

Metuchen didn't start production until the beginning of Feb '65 and their numbers started with 130001.

I only throw away parts that can't be used. If it can be restored, I'll keep it.

I also noticed that holding the manifolds up when tightening will help a socket clear to reach the plugs.

Woohoo, just ordered 3 sets. Thanks Joe!

I'd suggest that anyone interested in this car inspect it very thoroughly before buying!

Doesn't the higher final price mean the seller pays more in ebay fees? Seems kind of strange, should have just ended the auction.

Quote from Qman

1. On 1967 Dearborn Mustangs are the backside of the front and rear valances painted body color? 2. Are the wheels painted body color? 3. Are the underside of the front fenders painted body color? 4. Are the rear wheel wells painted body color? Thanks

1. The rear valence would have been held in with a couple or all the screws across the top when the car was painted. The bottom corners would be hanging down. The back of the rear valence would have seen a little paint over-spray around the edges. The front valence was painted off the car, so it would have over-spray around all the edges. The front and rear valences were typically red-oxide primer, but it is not uncommon to see other colors such as gray or slop primer.

2. Regular steel wheels are normally painted semi-gloss black. Have seen some 6 cyl models with body color wheels, but not sure if that was included in some type of package.

3. The underside of the front fenders would be primer with body color over-spray, like the front valence. The fenders were painted off of the car at the assembly plant.

4. Rear wheel wells that have not had dealer undercoating applied would have been body color over the top of sound deadener. The body color may not have fully covered the sound deadener in areas such as the frame rails.

Good questions!

$405 for a cast iron 4V intake?!?!?!?!

Quote from Rocket

Are cars painted with the 64.5 only colors (i.e. B,F,S,Y,& Z) more desirable, rare and valuable if they match the Warranty plate date codes?

I wouldn't consider "64.5" colors more rare or adding more value to a car.

Quote from oscart

Looking closely, the car really isn't concourse correct, but often the modified cars go for top dollar.

I'd suggest that this is not always the case and that it takes a very special modified car, done tastefully, to bring top dollar. Usually, though, it takes much more labor and $$ to do a modified car.

Sorry to hear you're selling. Hope the next owner is able to give the car the proper attention it needs.

Do you mean the accelerator crank that attaches to the firewall? If so, it should be phosphate/oil.

I'd be interested in the 2 65 radiator if you decide to sell.

Not my auction! Sounds bogus to me.

I'd say the car is probably worth what a similar condition K code is and then add the value of whatever genuine Shelby parts are on the car. Seeing as the original motor isn't even there, I can't imagine the Shelby parts being worth too much. Maybe the hood, if it's original and a few other pieces.

The ones I am calling tar-coated may be fiberglass, I don't know that I ever saw one up close. They were black and shiny with a rough texture.

Yes. Only mentioned the tar coating as a bunch of "NOS" ones came that way.

Judging by all the dust, I would suggest it might be a good used original.

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