I've seen at least 2 versions of the plate (short and long). It is my understanding that the rear build up was unique to K codes when it was first used in production due to the snubber design, but it carried over to GT A codes since they were also dual exhaust cars.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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First one may be an inspector name, flip image 'SNYD?' Whatever it is, it's not common.
Second appears to be 'K unit'
The others are typical San Jose frame markings which identify which fenders go to the car (hook numbers)
Check the RH side of the radiator support for a rotation number, usually written in chalk.
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NPD sells a reproduction. Or, you can try and find NOS.
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Quote from dunc289
what a find, the FIRST scheduled San Jose Kar.
Not necessarily. Remember that the last 6 digits are an order number, the car didn't have to be scheduled to be built before any of the others just because it had the first number. In fact, there are a few early San Jose cars with a higher unit number that have an earlier scheduled build date(13H) than this one(20H).
As I have mentioned to JR, the only thing we know without documentation is that it was the first/lowest unit number assigned to a '65 San Jose car with an alternator. Remember that San Jose built very few 64.5 cars, starting at 100001 and then when they skipped to alternator production, the sequence was re-started at 125001. The car is also the lowest unit number San Jose K code and fastback that came with an alternator. Again, though, I would have serious reservations about using the term "first" in just about any context regarding the car.
Regardless, though, it's a really neat find!
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Last one I had done was around $300 and the guy had a hard time finding the right core size.
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It is usually held on with one of the attaching nuts around the perimeter of the center section. Usually on one of the sides.
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I actually have not had any paintwork done on a caspian blue car in a while. I was going to do some touch-up on my k fastback, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
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When was the scheduled build date of your car. You might want to do a little more reading here on the forum before you go searching for a HEH-BX. Your car very well may have come with an HEH-T.
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Sounds like your motor mount insulators are worn out. Take a look where they connect to the chassis. If they're squashed down bad and the rubber is cracking, they need to be replaced.
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Quote from wlewis
I don't want to replace it because it works well. Anyone know how to tell if it's a close ration?
You'll have to count the teeth on 2nd gear. Should be 28 for a close ratio.
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Quote from wlewis
Tony's book doesn't list a HEH-BT at all.
Sorry, typo. HEH-T is the most common in '65. The changeover in the Ford parts books does not reflect the actual changeover from the HEH-T to the HEH-BX. There are many later '65 hi-po's found with HEH-T's.
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What condition are you motor mounts?
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Your '65 most likely had an HEH-BT. It sounds like your trans is not original.
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Convertible/fastback/coupe glass?
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There isn't much consistency with how they were installed at the factory, so either way is fine.
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Those holes were probably made into the piece before it was welded together to the rear build-up. They were definitely not drilled after the car was painted.
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San Jose radiator, stamped on top tank with C4ZE-Y2, W-MO, dated 7 64. This is a true manual trans radiator, no fittings on the bottom tank. Original 2 row core that supposedly does not leak, but I did not test it in a car. No damage at all, good honest original part. $400 + shipping. Pics available upon request.
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The hanger stud brackets would have been installed after the car was painted.
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Quote from Bramick
My Dearborn Kar was also done with the red oxide.
I suppose you know that is not factory primer?
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Quote from jbarela
so is there a consensus on the right color and brand to shoot our front end with that will be correct for judging..
Not really as there could be variations from the assembly plant. Generally, though, 30% flattened black is acceptable. Personally, I have had good luck with using DP90LF epoxy primer with .5 reducer added. The reducer allows it to dry out to a nice sheen. I did this engine bay about a month ago with DP:
