Posts by CharlesTurner
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Quote from club 33
Thanks, guys. Assembly date is May 26th.
I'd say you could go either way. The aluminum pump will be easier to find as the correct cast iron would have "C5OE" cast into the top edge. Probably be next to impossible to find a date correct timing cover for that pump too.
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The fuel tanks were not individually stamped/dated. The sheet steel that the tanks were made from had this stamp. I would guess a reasonably close date to the cars' scheduled build date would be typical.
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The earliest I have seen cast iron water pumps on a '65 is the beginning of June.
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John Murphy did some pretty extensive leg work on trying to determine exactly what the gas tank stampings were. "Long Ternes" is actually the correct name in the middle, which indicates the type of steel.
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Do you have the engine tag? Should be Level 8 for cast iron water pump cars.
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So I now I have to prove to you guys that the plate was used in A code 65-66 GT's? *sigh* How many examples do you want?
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I have seen varying shades on original canisters.
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I was recommending white interior paint for a '65 that parts vendors usually sell in a rattle can. Of course, as mentioned, the paint could possibly lift if it were to come in contact with gas for an extended period of time. Small drips wiped off quickly would not cause any problems.
Catalyzed paint would be the most resilient, but you have to have a paint gun and compressor to spray with.
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As I said, I'm sure some slipped through, but I certainly wouldn't simply accept any K w/out a VIN stamped block as "a factory mistake."
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Neither one is correct for your car.
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Well, I am certain that a radiator dated 1963 would be a non-Mustang application, which explains the 'C1' code... which is most likely for a Falcon or other Ford.
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If you have an original carb from around the October '64 through March '65 time frame, could you please post what the codes are on your tag? Only original hi-po carbs with original tags please.
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Yes, 3KC is the date code. Third week of October, 1963 (assuming it is 1960's vintage).
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Quote from 6hypo5conv
What would a "C1" after the part number be on a Dearborn/ Metucheon unit?
What is the full engineering number?
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I think the consensus is that Ford "intended" to stamp all K code blocks. But, like anything, some probably slipped through the cracks.
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I don't know if it is the actual code, but I use 65-66 white interior paint.
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So are you arguing that only K codes had that type of snubber plate?
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It seems to reason that the 2 extra holes were added once it was decided that the rear build-up would be used on A code GT's.
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Jeff, this is the 125001 San Jose car.