Quote from 66gtkI had some sealer goop like this on my '66 and decided to scrape it off. I figured it was just sloppy assembly work, and wasn't supposed to be there (unlike undercoating). Did you just paint over it?
It's the original stuff, we just left it there. Yes, it is painted over as it should be. The sealer was applied to the edge of the cowl before any primer or paint was applied to the car.
Quote from 65K09I thought a '65 got a radio that began with a 6
and a '66 got a radio that began with a 5
The 5TPZ radio was introduced about mid-year '65 production, which starts with a '5' on the dial. Interestingly, the 5TMZ starts with a '6', so they were most likely used interchangeably during production.
I still have the radio that was in my May '65 Dearborn car, it's a 5TPZ too.
Hey Charles just wondering if somebody cut the choke cable at one time or it broke so they just rerouted it. Also I do no for a fact the early 64 1/2 choke cables the mounting bracket is different I will try and snap a picture of the difference
It's only a 6" difference between the -B and -C cable. I assume the extra length had to do with being mounted on the left side of the steering column and keeping it from kinking.
I don't have a '64 MPC, but was interested in knowing what the -A cable assy was. Think I read somewhere that the pull handle bracket was different too, like you mentioned.
Here's a pic of the handle mounting when I got the K convertible:
http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/K_vert…01_05%20019.jpg
Incidentally, there is no hole for the tab on the bracket. I have 2 other examples of SJ K cars built at this time in assembly and they have the knob mounted in the same place.
Has anyone been able to determine the changeover from the 63.06" choke cable (C5ZZ-9700-
to the 57.62" cable (C5ZZ-9700-C)? The February '65 San Jose K convertible I'm restoring had the short cable with the pull handle mounted below the ignition switch. My early Jan '65 Dearborn K fastback had the long cable with the pull handle over by the LH kick panel.
Also, based on my observations, it appears that with the shorter cable, the rubber firewall grommet was introduced (352963-S). The long cable usually just has strip caulking pressed around the cable where it goes through the firewall. The long cable passes through the hole diagonally instead of straight through.
Not sure if you made a typo, but an HCC-AT box would be a normal steering box, not quick ratio.
Looking for either NOS or real nice original 6.95x14 U.S. Royal Safety 800XP tires for a 65/66. Not interested in reproductions.
Thanks
C7OZ-13A805-E 2 Deluxe steering wheel horn ring, both have C5, $150 ea.
C8ZZ-16A550-A 1 Pair of accessory mud flaps, $250
C4DZ-6222404-A 3 RH exterior door handle, with attaching parts, $75 ea. All Sold
C4DZ-6222405-A 2 LH exterior door handle, with attaching parts, $75 ea. All Sold
C5ZZ-17997-B 2 LH front bumper guard, $50 ea. All Sold
C5ZZ-17996-C 1 RH front bumper guard, $50 ea. All Sold
C5ZZ-6524100-AFA 2 Black door arm rest pads for std. interior, $100/pr. All Sold
C5ZZ-15511-A 3 LH backup lamp assy. , $100 ea All Sold
C5ZZ-15512-A 3 RH backup lamp assy., $100 ea All Sold
D1AZ-3B584-A 1 P/S pump seal and gasket kit, $45
C5ZZ-15510-A 1 Box of 5 parking or backup lens gaskets, $20
C5ZZ-13208-A 1 Backup lamp lens, $35 Sold
C5ZZ-7A624-B 1 Clutch pedal pad, with indent, $75
C5ZZ-2457-G 1 Brake pedal pad for manual trans, with indent, $50
C5OZ-6243505-B 2 Trunk lock kit, $75 ea
C6ZZ-8221-A 1 Grill molding center cover, $50
C7ZZ-6522811-C 1 LH lower door hinge, '68 style, $100
C5ZZ-6522800-B 1 RH upper door hinge, $50
C5ZZ-6524100-AFC 2 Medium blue door arm rests for std. interior, $40 ea. All Sold
C5ZZ-16098-C 3 2+2 Fender emblems, 2 in Ford boxes, one in FoMoCo box, $50 ea All Sold
C5ZZ-13734-A 3 Console lens, $25 ea.
C4OZ-6240282-A 2 F hood letter, $30 ea All Sold
C4OZ-6240282-B 3 O hood letter, $30 ea All Sold
C4OZ-6240282-C 2 R hood letter, $30 ea All Sold
C4OZ-6240282-D 2 D hood letter, $30 ea All Sold
C5ZZ-16098-D 4 Ceramic GT fender emblems, $50 ea. All Sold
C7AZ-16606-A 1 F hood letter, $30 ea
C7AZ-16606-B 1 O hood letter, $30 ea
C7AZ-16606-C 1 R hood letter, $30 ea
C7AZ-16606-D 1 D hood letter, $30 ea
D1ZZ-6540282-A-G 1 Set of MUSTANG stick on letters, $100/set
C5ZZ-5C299-A 2 GT exhaust trumpet bezels, $100/pr
C7OZ-16098-A 4 GTA fender emblems, $100/pr
C3OZ-16228-B 4 289 fender emblems, $50 ea
C5ZZ-1130-W 4 Styled steel wheel center caps, $100/set All Sold
Also have an NOS black '65 dash pad, $350
Prices do not include shipping, will send USPS priority mail.
Cool, that helps.
Based on the pics above, don't really see much other than nit-picky items.
-From the angles of the pics, it does appear you have the 65-66 style valve covers.
-Harmonic balancer is usually either natural or painted black
-Is the temp sending unit painted blue? Should be natural brass finish with possibly a little dusting of over spray on the lower threads.
-Bellhousing color looks off in the pics, but probably be ok for judging.
-The by-pass hose and clamps should have been installed when the engine was painted
-Looks like aftermarket head bolts
-Hard to tell from the pics, but are there exhaust manifold gaskets installed? They would be incorrect if so.
-Agree about the carb spacer, would expect it to have at least some over spray on it. Carb studs usually have block color on the tips also.
-Your lower control arm eccentric bolts should be phosphate/oil.
-Upper control arms are usually all natural on 67 and up.
-Should have a little engine color over spray on the exhaust manifolds, but probably wouldn't cost you any points by not having it. Nice touch for a restored car though.
If there is a certain level of correctness you're shooting for, it would help in providing feedback. Are you intending to show the car in any shows where it would be judged on authenticity? Like MCA?
Based on the type of restoration you are planning, you ought to search for an original fender from a car from the same assembly plant and built about the same time in production. I would not recommend using a service replacement fender.
It appears you may be confusing scheduled build date month codes with date codes on individual parts. Keep in mind there were many different formats depending on the part. 5KB on a C5OF distributor would simply mean a 2nd week of October 1965 dated part.
Online forums are just like real life folks, not everyone will get along. I'm sorry if there was an exchange in the other thread, but I will not just lay down and let someone make disrespectful comments towards me.
Agree with Brant. Would expect to see them on a properly restored car.
I am going to make it MY mission to dig up a copy of an original sticker from an original manufacturer/tire and have it correctly reproduced.
Keep in mind that the stickers may have been specific to a certain name brand of tire or maybe even specific to replacement tires. The ones I know had color bands and print on the tread were U.S. Royal and Goodyear.
OMG...pictures of an unrestored car is not a guarantee the part is original......What about talking to people that worked at the assembly plant over 40 years ago is that still good reliable info?
Ok [wise guy]. Verification would simply mean flipping the spare wheel over to make sure it is not a DOT marked tire. Also would need to check the date code on the wheel to make sure it is reasonable within the scheduled build date of the car. Wheel weights could also be checked to make sure they are period correct.
Regarding stickers on the factory spare, attached is a picture of the original spare in a low mileage '65. I realize it's a 6 banger car and not a K. It was in an original low mileage (23k miles!), car that was discussed on another forum some time back.
Most likely would need a little verification that the wheel/tire is original to the car. Mileage may be low, but that doesn't necessarily guarantee all the parts are original.
The '66 style was originally an anodized finish, like the 289 fender emblems. This finish is a shiny silver appearance, not as brilliant as chrome.
Agree with Jeff. 60's vintage tires had print on the tread and colors to identify them.
Ditto that. My '02 M5 has a 7200 rpm redline, I've bounced the needle over 7k many a time!! 
