Posts by CharlesTurner
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It could be either color. If you have the original, should be able to determine what color it was.
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Looking for a Ford 3.50 ratio ring/pinion for a '65 K code. NOS would be nice, but a nice used set would also be acceptable.
Have a 3.25 gear set to trade or sell outright.
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Quote from cobraboy
Charles
I think the penny has just dropped - outerlocks = springclips.
So springclips on both ends - I will get another joint for the front.
Thanks
No problem, figured it might be a terminology issue. Agree with Fred that someone may have installed u-joints with inner locks. If you remove your u-joints, you will quickly be able to determine if you have the correct drive shaft.
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Quote from 6hypo5conv
Where is the correct place to put this tag on my Kar?
Usually just hung from the turn signal lever.
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Quote from 6hypo5conv
Is there any real difference between them as to how they fit and work?
There is a visual difference, but otherwise should function the same, if cut properly.
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Quote from cobraboy
It is the pic from the resto blog above of the K convertable driveshaft dated 30 December.
Second pic down shows front joint with spring clips on the caps with rear joint with flush caps.
As prevoiusly said my front joint has the flush caps with two spring clips on the rear caps that are not in the diff yoke.
I wondered if it would be ok to leave the front caps as they are, I did not want them to move out as they have no clips to hold them in.
I can see that the shaft has been assembled back to front.
The 2nd pic shows outer locks on both the trans. yoke and drive shaft. I'm not sure what you are referring to as flush caps? Here's a larger image of the one you are questioning:
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Quote from cobraboy
Charles
I notice in the pic of your driveshaft that the front UJ has the circlips whilst the rear has the flush caps.
Mine is the other way round - all of the front caps are flush, with the two rears having circlips.
Is this a huge problem or can I leave it until a joint replacement is needed.
Thanks Mark
Which picture are you referring to? The u-joints at both ends were outer-lock, which is correct for a '65 hi-po.
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I cleaned off all the rear u-bolts that attach the shaft to the rear carrier. Did not find any pink traces at all. Also, in looking at the run lines of the pink splotches on the end, they appear to be going in a parallel direction to the tube, so I don't think they were applied once the shaft was installed in the car.
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Pony carbs does do a nice job with their rebuilds, but some of the plating of the individual parts is incorrect. I can only guess that the reason they plate the parts is for simplicity or maybe they just don't know. I've had several carbs restored/rebuilt by them and they all ran fine. Of course, you have to have a good carb to start with, otherwise it's tough to make it right.
As far as negativity on the board, it really only pops up once in a great while. It's easy for folks to hide behind a keyboard and post things to a forum that they otherwise might not say face to face. There's a lot of us that have been on these forums a long time and it's only natural that once in a while we bump heads or have some exchanges. The main thing to remember is that we all have a common passion and it's for the best to just let bygones be bygones. No disagreement about these cars is worth carrying a grudge over. We learn from each other, which is what keeps this place going.
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Quote from kar-nut
From blog:
"I found yellow paint splotches all over." Not sure where you found the yellow paint....
The pink paint on the differential end of the shaft could indicate the U bolt nuts were torqued to spec. during assembly.
The yellow splotches were on the trans. yoke, not the drive shaft.
The pink on the end looks like it was applied before the u-joints were installed. I should have the original u-bolts, which I'll clean to look for pink paint. Direct link to images: http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/K_vert/12_22_09/
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Quote from 66KGT
Sure wish we had this kind of documentation for a Dearborn kar. I assume you will pass this info along to Jack?
I might send the shaft to Jack for restoration, but will definitely share the pics with him.
Has anyone looked into where drive shafts were made for Ford and if they were done at multiple locations? Were they manufactured somewhere and then balanced later, like at the assembly plant?
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The green stripes are consistent with the Ford doc. Appears that 'vert' means light green in this case.
I didn't find any yellow marks on the tube. Maybe the stripes on the rear were applied as part of the balancing process.
The Ford doc doesn't explain the pink paint all over the rear of the shaft.
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Here's a few pics of an original redline tire next to a repro.
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I believe a real K carb core from Pony carbs is around $700-800. Add the cost of restoring/rebuilding to this and you're up to about $1300-1400 for a ready to run carb.
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I don't see any harm in using a clone hi-po carb. The only thing I would ask is to be honest about it when the time comes to sell the car or the carb. I personally do not agree with stamping original hi-po codes on the base, but that is my opinion. Unfortunately, if a clone carb is used on a show car judged on authenticity, then it would be deducted for if the judges spot it. There are a few very obvious features of an original hi-po carb that are not present on a clone carb.
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For that time period, the predominant undercarriage color for SJ cars would be red-oxide. If your car has not been stripped, you should be able to find some traces of the original color, which I advise to have color matched if you want to do it right. Also, keep in mind that the red-oxide up under the engine bay might have been a different shade of red-oxide.
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There are many small differences from year to year and even through a production year. To generalize:
-Primer/paint characteristics (mainly in front wheel well area)
-Handwritten and stamped markings throughout the car
-Fasteners
-Orientation of parts/method of assembly
If you can be more specific, we can be of more help.
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Right now, planning to install on the LH side by the kick panel unless I find compelling information that proves it should be under the ignition switch.
