You need to be looking for a '65, not a '66.
No difference in sheet metal gauge, but obviously lots of little differences throughout the car.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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I only have a C5 casting that needs a rebuild.
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Not offered as a factory option.
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Are you looking for a C5 or C6 casting? Core for rebuild?
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Sounds like a plan.
One additional word of advice... don't throw anything away until the car is back together (including cut-out sheet metal.) I'm sure you learned this from your Jeep restorations.
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Nobody here is going to get upset, it's your car and you do whatever is in your best interest. All we can do here is help when you have questions.
On the repro floor, you're going to find some differences between it and your original. Search old topics here and on other forums to educate yourself on what those differences are. You'll most likely learn very quick why I recommend a nice parts car.
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As I've said all along, it's your choice. I would rather use original sheet metal from a low option car that has little value to fix a higher value K code. You could always repair the low value car with reproduction sheet metal and put it back on the road.
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The cars I have seen around that time period had the slide style hold-down, no j-hook.
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As I mentioned previously, you could find a decent parts coupe for $5-6k. You'll be way ahead of the game if you find a solid one to get sheet metal from.
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Quote from 289route66
What about cutting the date codes out of the fenders and hood and welding them into OEM parts if the correct date codes can't be found? Is this acceptable for Iowa and others restoring k codes?
Depends on what the final goal is, but would consider that an option if one is looking to get the car as authentic/period-correct as possible.
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Depending on what your final goal is with the car, you might also consider good original sheet metal. There are still lots of nice low-option coupes that can be used for parts, including sheet metal. Finding one built at the same assembly plant around the same time in production as your car would yield the most authentic parts.
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Quote from 21.04
Is anyone interested in any particular item out of this kit, rather than the whole thing? I'm interested in the distrubutor, but I can't justify $1,500 just to get a distributor.
Matt
Send me an e-mail... I just need the wires.
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Awesome looking car. Would look much better without the GT350 badging and side stripes.
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C4ZF is a typical marking as early as August of '64.
There would never be a stamping with a trailing 'Z' as this would indicate a service replacement part and not an assembly line part.
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It's a dealer item.
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Seeing as our cars are very close in production at the same plant, should see consistencies between the two. Here is the VIN stamp on my block, which incidentally has a 5A4 casting date:
http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/caspia…26_08%20146.jpg
For reference, the heads are dated 4L18 and 4L16. The balancer is a 4L also.
Here's the trans VIN stamp:
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The '67 hi-po fan was a 2-piece design, C6OZ-8600-D with blades marked C6OE-D.
It's a rare item, but not in high demand.
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I did receive your e-mail and sent a reply. Let me know if you got it.
Thanks!
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Looking for 289 std. size pistons, NOS condition: C3OZ-6108-L and also for the accompanying rings: C3AZ-6148-B
I've possibly found 4 pistons, but still looking for more.
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Yes, there are Bendix versions, such as a 4TBZ. There are differences in the chassis and dials for each version.
