Posts by CharlesTurner

CharlesTurner · console CharlesTurner July 27, 2011 at 4:45 PM

Shouldn't be any problem with the thickness of the carpet as the console doesn't start making contact with it until a little forward of the shifter area.

The orientation of the floor bracket how you have it is correct.

CharlesTurner · console CharlesTurner July 27, 2011 at 3:22 PM

The bracket needs to be mounted flush to the floor. If you've got it mounted on top of your sound deadener, that is only aggravating the issue.

Edited by - caspian65 on 07/27/2011 15:23:10

CharlesTurner · Bright Plating Needed CharlesTurner July 25, 2011 at 7:52 AM

I had some done at a place called Surtronics in Raleigh, NC. But, last time I was there, they were getting aggravated and didn't want to do anymore car parts. They are a large production shop that does stuff for like John Deere and other big companies. So, the old car stuff was just done out of courtesy, not something they normally offer. Sorry I don't have a good lead. There's plenty of other places out there.

CharlesTurner · Paint seuqence CharlesTurner July 8, 2011 at 2:21 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Was pinch weld painted all the way tp the fron or masked off etc.from doors back?Did they do this on all Dearborn,San Jose and Metchen plant cars?

Typically full length of the rockers and done before the front fenders went on. It was generally thought that only light color cars had this done, but a lot of medium to dark colors have been found with it also. I'd apply it to pretty much every color except black. The bottom edge pinch weld of the rear quarters was supposed to be blacked out also. Some cars had this, some didn't.

CharlesTurner · 66 front suspension rebuild CharlesTurner July 5, 2011 at 7:30 AM

Lower ball joints rarely wear out on these cars. The boots usually crack and open up and cause problems. If your originals are in good shape, you can put new sleeve bushings on the ends.

On the uppers, there are many aftermarket ball joints. None of them are exactly like original, but unless you have a thoroughbred level restoration, not sure that the little details matter that much. There are some places you can send the control arms to and have new ball joints riveted on like original.

Of course, NOS is an option, but don't expect even the Ford replacement parts to be exactly like original assembly line pieces. The lowers usually go for $100-200 each and uppers a little more, usually $150-250 each.

CharlesTurner · 65 K Coupe Race Car CharlesTurner July 5, 2011 at 7:23 AM

Look forward to updates. <img src=images/icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

CharlesTurner · Gas CharlesTurner July 5, 2011 at 7:22 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

I try to always use Shell premium which is 93 octane in this area. It seems pretty consistent from tankful to tankful. I don't have any compelling logical reason for not using other name brands, except my obsessive-compulsive nature.

I'm the same way and try to use the same gas in my daily driver... a 400hp 32V V8 "family car". It does require high octane though and my chip tune also requires it.

CharlesTurner · 65 K Coupe Race Car CharlesTurner July 3, 2011 at 8:27 AM

Sounds like a really interesting project. You ought to start a new thread in the restoration sections and post updates as you progress.

CharlesTurner · 65 K Coupe Race Car CharlesTurner July 2, 2011 at 8:33 AM

Are you putting it back to how it was raced early on?

There are a few picture hosting places, but some of them don't like you to link over from another site. You could create a blog and upload pictures, then link to the blog. That's what I did with the K convertible resto.

http://65kresto.blogspot.com/

CharlesTurner · WTB: Misc '65 parts CharlesTurner July 1, 2011 at 11:35 AM

Sent this to a few friends, but thought I would try here again. Looking for the following parts for a '65 San Jose car, built in early Feb.:

-Original convertible kick panels (I don’t care what color they are), small repairable cracks ok

-Negative battery cable, any used original is ok

-Zinc-dichromate brake shoe hold-down cups, need 16, would take originals and get them re-plated

-Original distributor hold-down bolt, can re-plate, just need a good original with no wrench marks, has a curvy ‘F’ in middle

-Yellow print convertible power top wiring lead in engine bay, black wire with yellow Ford number printing

Thanks for any help!

CharlesTurner · radiator CharlesTurner July 1, 2011 at 11:14 AM

I believe the only way to achieve that would be to use original tanks and sides and use an aluminum core. Most all of the aluminum radiators I have seen are squared off on the top.

CharlesTurner · VIN numbers, date codes CharlesTurner June 28, 2011 at 12:11 AM

Those date codes in sheet metal are not year-specific. They usually just indicated month/day and then a shift and/or plant code.

The "How to Restore your Mustang" book was published sometime in the mid 80's if I remember right. I wouldn't put too much faith in a non-Ford publication of that sort, especially being printed almost 30 years ago. Not a whole lot that is useful in the book these days.

CharlesTurner · VIN numbers, date codes CharlesTurner June 27, 2011 at 3:47 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Well I just read that plants were allocated number lots so there were'nt number duplicates. W.

Where did you read that? A quick thumbing through the Smart/Haskell Mustang Production Guide shows the same unit numbers being used at different plants.

CharlesTurner · VIN numbers, date codes CharlesTurner June 27, 2011 at 9:25 AM

Each assembly plant ran through the same sequence of unit numbers except for Metuchen in '65. They started numbers at 130001 in Feb '65. Obviously Dearborn's numbers ran much higher than the other plants and they had to skip the Mercury numbers (400-500).

Dearborn started 100001 in March '64, San Jose started with 100001 in July '64.

The unit numbers will be in different ranges at the 3 plants during '65 production.

Arcadian Blue is a mid-year '65 color. Color code F on earlier cars is for Guardsman Blue. I had a May '65 Dearborn car that was code F- Arcadian Blue.

CharlesTurner · OK big decision to make, need imput CharlesTurner June 25, 2011 at 8:24 PM

Sounds reasonable, but at the end of the day, you need to do what is best for you.

CharlesTurner · 66 plexi glass side windows CharlesTurner June 23, 2011 at 7:13 AM

There is cutting involved to fit the plexi-glass windows. You'll most likely need to source the sections from a parts car to repair properly.

CharlesTurner · coolant decal CharlesTurner June 16, 2011 at 9:33 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

I'm surprised to hear that the decal is wider than the top of your radiator support-mine takes up the whole width but does not hang over-are you absolutely sure you've got the correct decal?

Most of the repro's I have seen are a tad too big for an original rad support.

CharlesTurner · WTB:'65 Alternator Condensor CharlesTurner June 16, 2011 at 9:32 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

If I am understanding Bob's book right my July 27 scheduled build date Dearborn '65 may not have had this condensor originally, the book talks about after July 9th Ford going to an internal condensor....The judge that judged my car at Jax says I need 1.....

Remember that the date on your warranty tag is just a scheduled date. Regardless, the norm for a '65 is for there to be one, but if you are willing to do the research and find original examples and/or documentation to support your claim, then that would just need to be presented before judging.

CharlesTurner · coolant decal CharlesTurner June 14, 2011 at 2:20 PM

Most figure that since it comes in the decal kit, that it should be on the car. Half of them are useless. Best to just buy the ECS ones individually based on what you need.

CharlesTurner · coolant decal CharlesTurner June 14, 2011 at 8:19 AM

Not something we typically find on original cars. Would recommend leaving it off.