I glass bead in my cabinet at about 60 psi.
Yes, usually parts are disassembled for cleaning/stripping.
Posts by CharlesTurner
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The trick is to leave it in there for a short amount of time, the 15-30s is all I do on those cast parts.
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It was hot (180F) manganese phosphate solution.
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I don't know the Ford spec on the finish, but have used a 15s dip in phosphate, followed by a soaking in oil. I then use coarse steel wool and rub out the parts, which does a nice job in replicating the original finish. Here's some pics of a steering box I restored using this process:
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Wouldn't make any difference in Concours judging. In Unrestored, it wouldn't matter either, since exhaust is one of the items that we allow to be replaced. In T-bred class, it would make a difference.
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'c/o' on a buck tag does not mean 'customer order' as we have found original Order Types inconsistent with the buck tag code. Best we can come up with, and what Kevin Marti notes in his Tagbook, is it was an internal code. The 3 digit number is a rotation number.
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You'll want "Ford Blue". Don't believe there is an offering of Medium Blue for those early years.
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I have heard of places that can do clear ceramic coat. I have not seen the results, but knowing how well other ceramic-coated pieces hold up, this might be something to consider.
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Should be only one size of the 2+2 emblems.
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Quote from iowaDisplay More
have a question about the emblem on the front side.
my K car had the standard black interior
ie no GT no pony etc.
would the emblem on the side say 'mustang 2+2?'
thanks
iowa
Yep
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Quote from club 33
Probably you, Charles! ...but, with some of those parts that you still are looking for, I'm not sure.
I was hoping to see your restoration completed at VA Beach.
I think Va Beach is a pipe dream, unfortunately. If I make it to Asheville, it will be a miracle. I'm going to put up a good fight to make that one though!
If you have a free weekend, make a road trip to Raleigh and check the car out!
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Bets to who will finish first?!?
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Quote from round2K
What's the plan for this car when you're done?
Is it a keeper or will it be for sale?
Won't be sold!
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Thanks Fred. Just trying to share what I'm doing with others. Hope to get the engine back soon and give everyone some K-candy.
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Should be an HEH-T for that time in production. It was a close ratio toploader, 2nd gear has 28 teeth.
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The later version has the engineering number on the back edge of the rubber, so it can be seen without pulling the rubber off. Although, if I remember right, the rubber is bonded to the metal on the later version.
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Biggest difference would be the engineering number stamped in the base.
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My guess is that's a typo. I think I have a collision parts catalog that might have better info. Will take a look later.
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Cool, your car definitely falls into the Arvinode time period.
Not sure if they sell the H-pipe also.
