If you don't mind not having a Ford clutch I would recommend a Centerforce. A stronger setup IMO with less pedal pressure. Don't think I'll ever use anything else.
Posts by s2ms
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I agree with the other comments. I've shipped to Germany, Australia, and UK using USPS flat rate boxes and never had a problem.
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According to the MPC that is the correct number.
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Quote from club 33
It is difficult to believe that we are going to start a new project right after this one, but it may be even more fun.
Well, I am particularly interested in your next project...
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Brant,
Thanks for the update, the car is looking fantastic!
Dave
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Quote from iowa
probably a dumb Q
but why did some cars have one
and others did not?
iowa
Some (all?) later service replacements did not have a drain.
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According to the Ford MPC this fits:
- 68 Fairlane 289, 302
- 69 Fairlane 351W
- 68 Mustang 289 (2V)
- 68-69 Mustang 302
- 69 Mustang 351W
- 68 Falcon 289
- 68-69 Falcon 302
Probably some truck applications as well.
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Looking great Brant!
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Because they are round I have seen several of these described on ebay as correct for 65 GT350's with factory side exhaust which is incorrect since they came with glasspacks.
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Check the seller's feedback. He's had one negative over the last year and the item was a 66 "HiPo" (same?) carb.
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Quote from 289kford
I've heard that argument too. But....
What do you do if your fuel pump or axle bearing fails? What if the condensor from your points set up fails?
Why dwell (get it?) on the Pertronix? If we live with "what if's" we would need to pull a trailer full of spare parts.
Just know that on an old car like mine, with mostly old parts holding it together and making it go, anything can go wrong, and it won't happen in my garage. Just take it in stride as part of the thrill of owning an old car.
I guess my point (pun intended) was this isn't a "what if" in my case and at least four others I'm aware of, but a "did happen"...not exactly the definition of reliability IMHO, hence the recommendation to carry a backup. That said, lots of people have used a Pertronix without any problems, I can only go with my own experience.
I do carry a bunch of backup parts for things that can be easily fixed on the side of the road - fuel pump, ignition stuff, hoses, clamps, etc.
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Make sure to keep your original plate and points (or an extra Pertronix) in the trunk in case of a failure. I had a Pertronix fail on me and know of at least four others including one right out of the box.
Guess I'm just old school but I think the HiPo dual point is a pretty cool piece just as it is.....
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Jim,
I agree with Bo. I have two original idler arms, the one from my car and one I bought as a spare years ago from a 66 GT350 in the early 300's. Both are identical with a block FoMoCo logo on the top front (as mounted) and the XRR part number on the bottom front. I also have a replacement purchased from Branda in the 90's that I'm using on the car with a roller bearing kit at the moment. It is like the arm you describe.
One thing I'm not clear on is if the replacement arms with the oval Ford logo are Ford service replacements or repops.
Dave
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Jim,
I'll let others comment on the finish, as for the other stuff....
My 66 GT350, 6S1757, is also a (late) March build. If the logo is a round "Ford" these may be replacements offered by Branda (and probably others) since the mid-80's, don't know if that is a concern. My original idler and pitman arms have rectangular FoMoCo logos. The location of the part number and logo is also different on the replacements. On my original idler arm the part number is on the bottom while the logo is on the top side, both at the front. I've seen oval FoMoCo logos on original 65 GT350 idler arms but not "Ford".
The original bushing is the same for the standard Mustang with (oddly) power steering, C3DZ-3356-A. If these are drivers I would recommend roller bearing kits otherwise aftermarket (Moog, etc.)should be fine since NOS are tough to find.
Dave
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Wayne,
Smart move having it re-sleeved. I tried to rebuild mine with a Cobra Automotive kit. Nothing wrong with the kit but it was a total disaster. The bore may look OK, mine did too, but will likely have micro scoring and/or pitting that causes undetectable damage to the piston when disassembled. The valve will probably never go back together the same way and jam, at least that's what happened to mine. Ended up having it re'sleeved as well.
Dave
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I used a Dynacorn wheel (only) for a while. It fit fine with the original horn parts and collar. The repros are nice but IMO there's no substitute for an original. Ended up having my original restored.
Here's another thread with a discussion on this topic:
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Gary, the original block in my 66 GT350 is long gone but near as I can tell the scheduled San Jose build date is 3/29/66. Still have the original fan which has an A66 date code.
Dave
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My father's name is there. I added it to the VW shortly after they opened the site in 1997. It has grown tremendously since then. Thanks for the link Jim.
Dave
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That is an original San Jose radiator, June 65 date code. Since it's a Z2 I assume it's for an auto trans, is that correct? It should actually be W-MO but the "M" often looks like a "H".
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Quote from 6hypo5conv
Did any K code Mustangs-(Non-Shelbys) come with Paxtons? may be dealer installed?
There was a bronze 66 fastback (HiPo I think) I saw for many years at the Mustang Roundup in Bellevue, WA that had a Paxton and 66 GT350 quarter windows. I haven't seen the car there for at least 5 years but IIRC the owner had original dealer documentation for the installation. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures so this is entirely anecdotal but I remember being very impressed with the car. Hopefully it shows up again.
Dave
