Looking great Brant!
Posts by s2ms
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Because they are round I have seen several of these described on ebay as correct for 65 GT350's with factory side exhaust which is incorrect since they came with glasspacks.
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Check the seller's feedback. He's had one negative over the last year and the item was a 66 "HiPo" (same?) carb.
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I've heard that argument too. But....
What do you do if your fuel pump or axle bearing fails? What if the condensor from your points set up fails?
Why dwell (get it?) on the Pertronix? If we live with "what if's" we would need to pull a trailer full of spare parts.
Just know that on an old car like mine, with mostly old parts holding it together and making it go, anything can go wrong, and it won't happen in my garage. Just take it in stride as part of the thrill of owning an old car.
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I guess my point (pun intended) was this isn't a "what if" in my case and at least four others I'm aware of, but a "did happen"...not exactly the definition of reliability IMHO, hence the recommendation to carry a backup. That said, lots of people have used a Pertronix without any problems, I can only go with my own experience.
I do carry a bunch of backup parts for things that can be easily fixed on the side of the road - fuel pump, ignition stuff, hoses, clamps, etc.
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Make sure to keep your original plate and points (or an extra Pertronix) in the trunk in case of a failure. I had a Pertronix fail on me and know of at least four others including one right out of the box.
Guess I'm just old school but I think the HiPo dual point is a pretty cool piece just as it is.....
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Jim,
I agree with Bo. I have two original idler arms, the one from my car and one I bought as a spare years ago from a 66 GT350 in the early 300's. Both are identical with a block FoMoCo logo on the top front (as mounted) and the XRR part number on the bottom front. I also have a replacement purchased from Branda in the 90's that I'm using on the car with a roller bearing kit at the moment. It is like the arm you describe.
One thing I'm not clear on is if the replacement arms with the oval Ford logo are Ford service replacements or repops.
Dave
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Jim,
I'll let others comment on the finish, as for the other stuff....
My 66 GT350, 6S1757, is also a (late) March build. If the logo is a round "Ford" these may be replacements offered by Branda (and probably others) since the mid-80's, don't know if that is a concern. My original idler and pitman arms have rectangular FoMoCo logos. The location of the part number and logo is also different on the replacements. On my original idler arm the part number is on the bottom while the logo is on the top side, both at the front. I've seen oval FoMoCo logos on original 65 GT350 idler arms but not "Ford".
The original bushing is the same for the standard Mustang with (oddly) power steering, C3DZ-3356-A. If these are drivers I would recommend roller bearing kits otherwise aftermarket (Moog, etc.)should be fine since NOS are tough to find.
Dave
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Wayne,
Smart move having it re-sleeved. I tried to rebuild mine with a Cobra Automotive kit. Nothing wrong with the kit but it was a total disaster. The bore may look OK, mine did too, but will likely have micro scoring and/or pitting that causes undetectable damage to the piston when disassembled. The valve will probably never go back together the same way and jam, at least that's what happened to mine. Ended up having it re'sleeved as well.
Dave
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I used a Dynacorn wheel (only) for a while. It fit fine with the original horn parts and collar. The repros are nice but IMO there's no substitute for an original. Ended up having my original restored.
Here's another thread with a discussion on this topic:
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Gary, the original block in my 66 GT350 is long gone but near as I can tell the scheduled San Jose build date is 3/29/66. Still have the original fan which has an A66 date code.
Dave
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My father's name is there. I added it to the VW shortly after they opened the site in 1997. It has grown tremendously since then. Thanks for the link Jim.
Dave
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That is an original San Jose radiator, June 65 date code. Since it's a Z2 I assume it's for an auto trans, is that correct? It should actually be W-MO but the "M" often looks like a "H".
Edited by - Mad4HiPos on 05/26/2010 13:13:40
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Did any K code Mustangs-(Non-Shelbys) come with Paxtons? may be dealer installed?
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There was a bronze 66 fastback (HiPo I think) I saw for many years at the Mustang Roundup in Bellevue, WA that had a Paxton and 66 GT350 quarter windows. I haven't seen the car there for at least 5 years but IIRC the owner had original dealer documentation for the installation. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures so this is entirely anecdotal but I remember being very impressed with the car. Hopefully it shows up again.
Dave
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Yep. Practically the same Cobra kit (C4DZ-12050-A) had a retail price in the 1966 High Performance Catalog of.....$48.80. These were also sold over the counter by Shelby American. Their Parts and Accessories catalog lists the kit for a whole $1 more.
Edited by - Mad4HiPos on 05/04/2010 21:59:29
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Is there a VIN stamped on it?
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Set of 8 very rare NOS Autolite BF-42 spark plugs with the star logo. $150 OBO, price includes shipping and insurance. Please email me at dmgt350@aol.com if interested.
Thanks,
Dave
~~~SOLD!~~~
Edited by - Mad4HiPos on 06/30/2010 20:27:51
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If I don't recall wrong, the M1 on originals are
pointing forward and backward respectively while the
later versions are pointing up and down. As Z.Ray says,
the bracket with 3 ears are a give away on an original as is the
casting on the brackets, 1068 and 1070. 1070 was listed as used on Falcons but I have seen many 66 Shelbys having them as well.
/Bo
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Bo,
I've noticed the same thing regarding the M-1 location. Also seen 66 GT350's with both 1070 and 1068 casting original rear brackets. Those with a 1070 are cast "10-70" while the 1068's have the side in the casting and use the format "1068 RH (or LH)". The 1068's are a slightly thicker bracket so presumably a little stronger.
Dave
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In addition to the other suggestions you might try the Concours Mustang Forum
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It looks like it is an aftermarket product/instalation, but I would like to install a period correct, Ford product. Are there any that will not distract from my car, if i took it to a show?
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Bob,
Traction Master changed front and rear bracket designs over the years so that should tell you if they are the 66 GT350 "period correct" style or a later style.
Dave
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Steve,
My spare 6AC dated original has 13L and 18L settings and it's set at 13L. The original in my 66 has the same date and IIRC is set the same but it's been quite a while since I looked at it.
Dave
Edited by - Mad4HiPos on 03/22/2010 12:51:27