Posts by s2ms

  • Flywheel

    Merlyn, the auction pic (which is terrible as usual) almost looks like there is a "smooth" area in the 2:00 position on the thick pad. Is that real or not? If real look for the "BB" impression. If the flywheel has been hot tanked and/or bead blasted may be hard to see the test mark. Dave.

  • WINTERIZATION

    Quote from Laki

    Boy do I feel sorry for you guys back East because there is no way that I could my Kar under wraps for 5 months without a little spin somewhere. California living. :thumbup:Laki

    Even up here in the rainy Seattle area I can usually find at least one dry day a month for some car exercise in the winter. I do check tire pressures before each winter drive and trickle charge the battery at least every 60 days. Regardless of what time of year I always disconnect the neg. cable when the car is sitting. Currently have one of the old acid Autolite repops which is now 5 years old and still going strong.

  • Flywheel

    The flywheel thing has been discussed a few times around here and despite what the books say a C3OE-B Engineering number is not HiPo specific. The HiPo unit will have an orange paint daub but even if that is missing all original HiPo flywheels I've seen also have an obvious Brinnel hardness test mark and are balanced differently. If you can see the test mark it's likely a HiPo flywheel. If not it should be no big deal to have the one you bought rebalanced to HiPo specs.


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5208


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4582


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4033

  • KONI REAR SHOCKS

    Quote from paul

    Both pairs are part #'d 82-1389 and are used but in excellent condition. Any chance someone out there has a set, front or rear, that are dated correctly for my 65 GT 350? Dates could be 11-64 thru 5-65.

    The original Konis used on 65 and early 66 GT350s also had different part#s, 82-1326 front and 82-1327 rear.

  • pinion snubber bracket

    Quote from cchesley

    I think that is a correct early one. The later one is deeper and has another step down on the right side of the bracket if you are facing the yoke from the driveshafts point of view.

    Any ideas on when the "later" early style appeared? My late March 66 original bracket has two steps downs on each side making it more symmetrical than the earlier style pictured above.


    This is not to be confused with the Boss, BB later style shown on the ebay auction above that has the slanted and notched side.

  • Master cylinder rust prevention

    Using DOT 3 wouldn't be such an issue with regard to MC rust if the disc brake cap & rubber gasket did a decent job sealing the MC, these things are terrible IMO. I use Castrol DOT 3/4 and change it out every two years, it's still clear after that time just a little more reddish in color.


    Charles is right, DO NOT use DOT 5 if you are driving the car hard like racing or open track situations.

  • Hood Hinges

    I'll throw in a second plug for Steve at brakeboosters.com. Had him clear zinc plate a bunch of parts a few months ago. The quality was excellent and the price very competitive, even with the shipping costs. He told me he's definitely looking for more Mustang customers.


    Oops! Sorry, didn't notice you were down-under so shipping will be a bigger issue. Worth a quote anyway.........

  • Wanted: 66 HiPo Heads

    Your car it quite close to mine, 6S1757. I've been able to determine from my Ford VIN that it came out of San Jose in late March 66 so I would guess yours was built within a day or two of mine. I still have the original heads, both are dated 6A31 so you can use that as a guide. Anywhere between mid Jan - early March should be safe. You could probably go even earlier, my original flywheel is dated Nov. 65.

  • Original Battery Holddown Clamp

    Thanks Charles for working to get to the bottom of this. I assume most of our cars would have come from the factory with the smaller 22F yellow cap battery and larger clamp anyway, too bad nobody repops the 22F. I ran a Motorcraft service 22F in my 66 for a while but it looked weird. When it died went back to the repop Autolite 24F.