Posts by s2ms

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    Both pairs are part #'d 82-1389 and are used but in excellent condition. Any chance someone out there has a set, front or rear, that are dated correctly for my 65 GT 350? Dates could be 11-64 thru 5-65.

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    The original Konis used on 65 and early 66 GT350s also had different part#s, 82-1326 front and 82-1327 rear.

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    I think that is a correct early one. The later one is deeper and has another step down on the right side of the bracket if you are facing the yoke from the driveshafts point of view.

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    Any ideas on when the "later" early style appeared? My late March 66 original bracket has two steps downs on each side making it more symmetrical than the earlier style pictured above.


    This is not to be confused with the Boss, BB later style shown on the ebay auction above that has the slanted and notched side.

    Using DOT 3 wouldn't be such an issue with regard to MC rust if the disc brake cap & rubber gasket did a decent job sealing the MC, these things are terrible IMO. I use Castrol DOT 3/4 and change it out every two years, it's still clear after that time just a little more reddish in color.


    Charles is right, DO NOT use DOT 5 if you are driving the car hard like racing or open track situations.

    I'll throw in a second plug for Steve at brakeboosters.com. Had him clear zinc plate a bunch of parts a few months ago. The quality was excellent and the price very competitive, even with the shipping costs. He told me he's definitely looking for more Mustang customers.


    Oops! Sorry, didn't notice you were down-under so shipping will be a bigger issue. Worth a quote anyway.........


    Edited by - Mad4HiPos on 08/29/2006 23:06:17

    Your car it quite close to mine, 6S1757. I've been able to determine from my Ford VIN that it came out of San Jose in late March 66 so I would guess yours was built within a day or two of mine. I still have the original heads, both are dated 6A31 so you can use that as a guide. Anywhere between mid Jan - early March should be safe. You could probably go even earlier, my original flywheel is dated Nov. 65.

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    Learning new things about these cars is lots of fun and part of the hobby. It keeps it interesting!

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    Bingo! <img src=images/icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

    Thanks Charles for working to get to the bottom of this. I assume most of our cars would have come from the factory with the smaller 22F yellow cap battery and larger clamp anyway, too bad nobody repops the 22F. I ran a Motorcraft service 22F in my 66 for a while but it looked weird. When it died went back to the repop Autolite 24F.

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    Now we have a bunch of thirty year old guys that know for a fact that the motor has never been out of their forty year old car....

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    Hold on there. I know for a fact the motor in my car is not VIN stamped. Wait a sec, I forgot (happens all the time, guess I'm not 30 anymore), that's because the original <b>was</b> blown up. Crap. <img src=images/icon_smile_angry.gif border=0 align=middle>


    At least I know how it happened. The owner at the time threw a rod during a SCCA road race in 1973. The block was destroyed but fortunately everything else except two rods survived and he rebuilt the engine using a D1ZE Boss 302 service block and Boss rods.

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    The one with the locater tab is the correct one. The tab actually fits into the original battery. This is something we put in the MCA rulebook this year for concours judging.


    I'm surprised to see an NOS one with the tab, it seems like all the service ones I have seen did not have the tab. I have 2 originals with the tab.

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    Thanks for the info Charles. I bought both of these from a small town Ohio Ford dealer a while back. I don't need both so will probably sell one, now I know which one to keep!

    These older Motorcraft FA-41's are a tad smaller than the original FoMoCo filters like Bo has pictured above and as such IMHO look a little goofy inside the HiPo air cleaner housing. The repops now are so good and fit better.