Posts by s2ms

  • Chrome Plating

    Bill,


    It was a pleasure having dinner with you and the other guys last night, great stories.


    I have used a guy in south Seattle for a bunch of stuff. He's quite good IMO and prices seem to be a tad under the average. His business is called Show Quality Metal Finishing, LMK and I can get you his contact info.


    Dave

  • 4100 autolite

    Quote from noelfisher

    Another aside: have any of you guys ever had carburetor parts powder coated? I understand that it's an alternative to "correct" replating.

    I had the Holley reissue 715 LeMans bowl carb I'm running blueprinted by DaVinci Carbs (Texas) and they put a "ceramic" coating (their words) on it that is really nice, looks suspiciously like powder coating to me. It does look a lot like the factory Holley plating and is very durable. Dirt, oil, gas, etc. just wipes right off.

  • Under carriage detail

    Gary, that actually worked fine since when we click on your server URL a browser window pops up with the directory of your images. A more direct way to insert an image is to click on the "Insert Image" icon, on the "Format" row, when you make or reply to a post and the appropriate image HTML tags will be inserted, then just add the picture info to the end of the server path you already provided and copy and paste this info between the image tags, like this:


    [pic]http://www.systemoneonline.com/GM/UnderCarriage1.JPG[/pic]


    The example code tag isn't working so in the real code "pic" will be replaced with "img" and the result will look like this:


    [Blocked Image: http://www.systemoneonline.com/GM/UnderCarriage1.JPG]


    Dave

  • Wanted: Original Air Filter base for 1965 K

    Quote from CharlesTurner

    A Nov/Dec 65 or Jan 66 would most likely NOT have had a 5A base from the assembly plant.

    What would a Nov/Dec 65 car have then? Charles, have you seen any other date on an original 65 base other than 5A? Anyone have a late 65 car with the original air cleaner that can chime in here?

  • Wanted: Original Air Filter base for 1965 K

    Quote from 66KGT

    What dates have you seen for 66?

    The original base on my car is 6C and I also have a 6A base. I have seen 6B and 6D plus if Charles has a 6F possibly there was a 6E? Merlyn, I think a 6A would probably work for your Jan. 12 production date since my car has a 6C and a late March 66 San Jose production date but agree the 5A you have is likely the original.

  • Wanted: Original Air Filter base for 1965 K

    Quote from 66KGT

    Not really Charles, if you had a 5M or 6A I would be interested in a trade. Would could talk about an outright sale or trade for something else...

    Did they even make a 5M base? The only date code I've ever seen for '65 was 5A, like they made a ton of them or something. Seen several dates for '66 and '67 though.

  • Ignition Coil Rebuild??

    No, AFAIK coils can't be rebuilt. Some vendors such as Virginia Classic Mustang now offer a repop that is a big improvement over the ones that have previously been on the market and are total crap IMHO. Price is pretty reasonable, about $30 I think.


    I've heard some good things about these new ones, anyone here tried one yet? Supposed to be identical to original yellow tops in looks and performance. The only difference I see in pics is they don't have the numeric code (date or what?) cast between the terimals.

  • Date Codes

    Everything on my 66 GT350, San Jose build date last week of March 66 AFAIK, is within the 3 month general rule except the original flywheel which has a 5L4 date code.

  • Solid Lifter Adjustment

    Quote from garymcgowan

    Thanks for that tip Dave... that is a pretty darn slick way to do it. Gary

    Thanks Gary, it was an idea I came up with while running a Pertronix. After it died I switched back to trusty points and continued to use that method as it's so easy.

    Quote from round2K

    The fellows that are proponents of cold lash aren't wrong, but if you're looking to get the most out of your engine it's all about fine tuning. From my experience I can tell you that a cold lash adjustment is a good starting point, but hot lash adjustment is optimal.

    FWIW, I've found with the roller rockers I'm running the cold and hot lash are identical.

  • Solid Lifter Adjustment

    If you can't find a degree tape and don't want to make index marks on your dampner, here's another quicky & dirty way (don't laugh) to find TDC for each cylinder:


    - Drill the spark plug wire connectors out of an old dist.cap and place the cap on the distributor.


    - Rotate the engine to #1 cylinder TDC. You will see the rotor tip in the hole, note it's exact position relative to the hole.


    - Adjust #1 valves


    - Rotate the engine until the rotor tip is visible in the same position at the next hole (#5 unless you have a 351W firing order cam) and adjust those valves.


    - Repeat until done.


    If using points you can also obviously pull the dist. cap and watch how the points line up relative to #1 TDC and repeat for all cylinders. The drilled cap is a little easier IMO and can be used if not running points. May sound goofy but if done carefully should be just as accurate as the other methods.

  • 289 "Shelby" Lettered Hi-Rise Intake ??

    Quote from b9folk

    quote:

    I had a 67 350 years ago that was missing the intake.

    Wow, a '67 Shelby Mustang must have been pretty impressive back in 1657. Bet it's mighty rusty by now! :S


    Well, the roads were pretty lousy back then but at least one didn't have to worry about them being salted.

  • Replacement Axle Tag

    Gary,


    The tag you got is a 66 Shelby type and is almost identical to the original on my 66 GT350 which reads:


    DSO C6ZX-B (Top line)

    3.89 6BD 925 (Bottom line)


    There is no Ford logo. No idea why the Shelby tags were different but they were. An "X" in the part number usually meant it was a competition part.