Posts by s2ms

s2ms · Wanted: Original Air Filter base for 1965 K s2ms January 28, 2007 at 1:09 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

What dates have you seen for 66?

The original base on my car is 6C and I also have a 6A base. I have seen 6B and 6D plus if Charles has a 6F possibly there was a 6E? Merlyn, I think a 6A would probably work for your Jan. 12 production date since my car has a 6C and a late March 66 San Jose production date but agree the 5A you have is likely the original.

s2ms · Wanted: Original Air Filter base for 1965 K s2ms January 27, 2007 at 1:34 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Not really Charles, if you had a 5M or 6A I would be interested in a trade. Would could talk about an outright sale or trade for something else...

Did they even make a 5M base? The only date code I've ever seen for '65 was 5A, like they made a ton of them or something. Seen several dates for '66 and '67 though.

s2ms · Wanted: Original Air Filter base for 1965 K s2ms January 26, 2007 at 10:38 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Look Again, It does have the dimples.

It appears to have one dimple to me, looking through Mannel's book (pg. 3-37) this looks like a 63 HiPo base. Later HiPo bases have two dimples.

s2ms · Ignition Coil Rebuild?? s2ms January 25, 2007 at 2:21 PM

No, AFAIK coils can't be rebuilt. Some vendors such as Virginia Classic Mustang now offer a repop that is a big improvement over the ones that have previously been on the market and are total crap IMHO. Price is pretty reasonable, about $30 I think.

I've heard some good things about these new ones, anyone here tried one yet? Supposed to be identical to original yellow tops in looks and performance. The only difference I see in pics is they don't have the numeric code (date or what?) cast between the terimals.

s2ms · What to put in a Toolkit for the trunk? s2ms January 25, 2007 at 2:10 PM

If you're running a Pertronix, have the original plate, points, and condenser handy.

s2ms · My car is in this months MM... s2ms January 20, 2007 at 4:50 PM

Congrats Merlyn & Bob. It does kind of make up for all those bruised and skinned knuckles when your car gets in a mag. Just got a shot of my 66 in the latest (Feb. '07) M&F, page 80.

s2ms · Date Codes s2ms January 18, 2007 at 11:22 PM

Everything on my 66 GT350, San Jose build date last week of March 66 AFAIK, is within the 3 month general rule except the original flywheel which has a 5L4 date code.

s2ms · Solid Lifter Adjustment s2ms January 18, 2007 at 4:36 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Thanks for that tip Dave... that is a pretty darn slick way to do it. Gary

Thanks Gary, it was an idea I came up with while running a Pertronix. After it died I switched back to trusty points and continued to use that method as it's so easy.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

The fellows that are proponents of cold lash aren't wrong, but if you're looking to get the most out of your engine it's all about fine tuning. From my experience I can tell you that a cold lash adjustment is a good starting point, but hot lash adjustment is optimal.

FWIW, I've found with the roller rockers I'm running the cold and hot lash are identical.

s2ms · Solid Lifter Adjustment s2ms January 17, 2007 at 1:48 PM

If you can't find a degree tape and don't want to make index marks on your dampner, here's another quicky & dirty way (don't laugh) to find TDC for each cylinder:

- Drill the spark plug wire connectors out of an old dist.cap and place the cap on the distributor.

- Rotate the engine to #1 cylinder TDC. You will see the rotor tip in the hole, note it's exact position relative to the hole.

- Adjust #1 valves

- Rotate the engine until the rotor tip is visible in the same position at the next hole (#5 unless you have a 351W firing order cam) and adjust those valves.

- Repeat until done.

If using points you can also obviously pull the dist. cap and watch how the points line up relative to #1 TDC and repeat for all cylinders. The drilled cap is a little easier IMO and can be used if not running points. May sound goofy but if done carefully should be just as accurate as the other methods.

s2ms · HiPo fuel Pump #numbers s2ms January 15, 2007 at 10:12 PM

Just replied to this in a "General Discussion" thread but it likely belongs more appropriately here:

65: Carter# 3939-S = Ford# C5OZ-9350-A

66-67: Carter# 4201 = Ford# C6ZZ-9350-A

s2ms · Help removing the parkbrake handle s2ms January 13, 2007 at 4:35 PM

Rene, Bo is right, when my original one broke I replaced it with a repop and the hole was on the wrong side. I also have a NOS one that doesn't have any hole drilled. Dave

s2ms · 289 "Shelby" Lettered Hi-Rise Intake ?? s2ms January 10, 2007 at 9:26 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

I had a 67 350 years ago that was missing the intake.

Wow, a '67 Shelby Mustang must have been pretty impressive back in 1657. Bet it's mighty rusty by now! <img src=images/icon_smile_clown.gif border=0 align=middle>

Well, the roads were pretty lousy back then but at least one didn't have to worry about them being salted.

s2ms · Replacement Axle Tag s2ms December 24, 2006 at 2:10 AM

Gary,

The tag you got is a 66 Shelby type and is almost identical to the original on my 66 GT350 which reads:

DSO C6ZX-B (Top line)

3.89 6BD 925 (Bottom line)

There is no Ford logo. No idea why the Shelby tags were different but they were. An "X" in the part number usually meant it was a competition part.

s2ms · looking for advise s2ms December 20, 2006 at 10:36 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

If you notice he edited the ad on 12/15/06, after I purchased the car. the original ad does NOT state "Engine has casting code but I cannot guarantee it is an original hipo motor." The original ad states " Missing carb and exhaust manifolds. All other hipo parts there."

Hmm, I wonder....does the database for this website have info on original and edited posts? If so, that may be helpful to your situation.

s2ms · fastback screw covers s2ms December 15, 2006 at 4:46 PM

I don't have an assembly manual handy but a friend of mine told me it shows only three/car on the center three screws. The two end screws are apparently far enough to the sides the protectors weren't needed. This is what I was told and why the guy is selling three/set.

Can someone please confirm whether you need three or five?

Gary, these are for the screws that hold the molding piece above the trap door on which protrude into the trunk compartment. They go over those screw ends to cover the sharp tips.

s2ms · fastback screw covers s2ms December 15, 2006 at 1:02 PM

There's a guy who has reproduced these and is selling a few on Ebay. Apparently he has made several hundred sets and is "testing the waters" to see what the response is. Spendy but they look really nice.

Ebay Link

s2ms · Server maintenance s2ms December 14, 2006 at 12:55 PM

You have to be logged in to see them now, not sure when the change was made.

s2ms · Battery hold down bracket for 65 s2ms December 12, 2006 at 4:06 PM

Rene, check out this topic for some pics and descriptions:

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5413

s2ms · Is it a T5? s2ms December 11, 2006 at 10:36 PM

I've had an email conversation with Howard Pardee, 65-66 GT350 SAAC Registrar, regarding this issue. He has an original version of this well known photo and he said:

"from what I can see it's pretty clear that the washers are there. The export brace and bee hives (that's what they called them) were installed at San Jose."

That's significant since the cars in the pic are as delivered from San Jose before they were modified at Shelby American, the washer reinforced shock towers seem to have been part of the Export modifications.

Edited by - Mad4HiPos on 12/11/2006 23:55:44

s2ms · Is it a T5? s2ms December 7, 2006 at 1:08 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

The reinforced (washers) front upper shock mounts were something done at Shelby. Seen a fair amount of export cars and none of them had the reinforced shock mounts.

I've also seen a number of 66 GT350's, including mine, that were in the later part of the production run that originally did not have the reinforced washers either. That's why I picked up a couple of sets years ago. I suspect there was a supply shortage and they certainly didn't want to hold up production for a few washers, just my opinion here.

IMO it makes more sense for a (presumed) shortage like this to have more of an effect if it was at San Jose rather that if it was a Shelby specific modification. Plus Bo mentioned he has owned Export Mustangs with the reinforced towers.

Guess more digging is needed on this one.