Posts by s2ms

Quote from 66gtk

My HB does have a timing mark on it from when my mechanic just tuned it last spring. I was told that it had "spun out a bit", hence the need for him to find a reference point and paint a timing mark.

If your mechanic had to find a new timing reference then the rubber may be failing causing it to slip. Since you're taking it off to paint it would be a good time to have it rebuilt.

If you are really lucky it will pull off by hand. It should come off easily using a puller which can be rented at any rental shop.

Thanks for your efforts Hank. The site is blazing fast right now!

I realize the sealed repop batteries are fairly new to the market but I'm curious what kind of life people are getting out of them. Anyone had one fail unexpectedly yet?

I haven't checked recently but if the current Carter replacement, part# 6588 I think, is still available, it was advertized as a replacement for both the standard and HiPo 289. I have used one for at least the last 10 years on my car with no fuel problems. This includes several open track events.

Quote from CharlesTurner

Bob: Have you ever seen a date stamp on a hi-po air cleaner base before 5A?

Or anything other than 5A for 1965 before the 6A's appeared?

Sure, any driveline shop can rebalance an old shaft. If the shaft is bend or dented they can also retube it.

Just to add one more data point, I bought a manual trans. radiator at a swapmeet two years ago that I traded to a friend for some other parts. The date code is 8-64 and is stamped Y2.

He also has a 7-64 rad and as soon as he digs it out of his attic I'll post the numbers on that one too.

C5AZ (C5AE engineering number) is the hex base hose connection valve. C6AZ (C6AE engineering number) is a round base hose connection. All the mag test articles I have for 65-early 66 GT350's show the C5AZ valve but I'm wondering if anyone knows when the C6AZ valve came into production?

The oil formulation issue is a complicated subject which Bill summarizes well. From what I understand the main issue is with the critical break-in period but even broken-in cams are having problems. Part of the problem is coming from offshore inferior cam stock but evidence suggests that the reduced amount of zinc in newer oils is partly to blame.

The amount of zinc additive, or ZDDP, is being reduced because it fouls catalytic converters. The problem is our older flat tappet engines need ZDDP because it's an excellent lubricant for metal-to-metal contact, i.e. lifter-to-lobe surfaces.

Another issue is oil drain intervals. ZDDP is sacrificial, it's levels are reduced with use. If you don't drive your HiPo much and change your oil every 500 miles or so, then the new formulations probably won't be a problem. But if you drive the car a lot and extend your drain intervals past 3000 miles you might have a problem.

In addition to the solutions Bill mentions, another approach is to use heavy duty diesel motor oils like Shell Rotella T or Chevron Delo. These will work perfectly fine in our engines and still have fairly high amounts of ZDDP but even in these the levels are being reduced due to emission issues.

FWIW, I'm just crudely summarizing the stuff I've read on the website mentioned above. There's lot's of people who post there with way more knowledge on this subject.

Bo, If your friend is using a flat tappet cam, you may want to tell him that a lot of people are now not recommending using these oil restrictors due to the issues involving flat tappet cams and new oil formulations mandated by the EPA. There is a ton of info about this on the Bob Is The Oil Guy website. Dave.

Quote from BMaloof

The S1 intake has physically smaller runners than the S2 does. That is a little known fact, but true. Therefore the S2 intake will make slightly more power than the early intake does. The S2 intake will actually make some pretty good power...

Another little known fact is that the late 65 GT350 R-Models used S2MS intakes due to their greater power making ability. Every little bit helped.

There's a guy on ebay who sells "restored" pins fairly often so you might keep an eye out for one of those if interested. The finish seems a bit to bright to me but is better than the silver finish.

Here's an example, item# 150095963835.

I recently bought one from Virginia Mustang with the hole in the proper location. I think it was also a Scott Drake handle. I decided to replace the repop that snapped off in my hand with an NOS one so I'm not going to use it.

Wow, Daytona has really increased their price. I paid $50 for my kit two years ago.

There is some confusing info out there on this subject but as Bob noted the C30E-6380-B flywheel is not HiPo specific. However, AFAIK only HiPo's should have a specific version of this flywheel which is balanced differently than the standard 289 version and will have a Brinnel hardness test mark and, if it's never been hot-tanked, an orange paint daub. I've never seen a non-HiPo flywheel without the test mark.

Since your's still has a 160 tooth ring gear I assume it's the original flywheel. The 160 tooth gear was replaced by the 157 tooth gear sometime in that late 60's.

If possible please post some pics of your flywheel.

What are the Carter numbers stamped on the mounting flange? I assume 4193S?

Glad to have you aboard Bob. I've had your book for a couple of years now and it's always the first place I look for answers. I'm already thinking up more questions!

Dave

Thanks Bob, I was wondering if high RPM durability was the only reason myself. Welcome to the forum! Dave.

Quote from Joe6pack

the body castings different from regular mustangs? I just looked at a 4193 pump I have in the garage. It has a dimple cast onto the body for a spring, but not on the lever.

The body castings are the same for 4193's and 4201's. There's some detailed pics at this thread:

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4840

Does this happen more often when you slow down quickly? If that's the case check the front float level. If it's too low all the fuel in the front primary bowl may slosh to the front under hard braking and momentarily fuel starve the engine.