You can still get a Motorcraft regulator from Ford, don't remember the part number off hand but the old points style is no longer available anyway. I'm sure you can get it after market at PePBoys, Autozone, etc.
Posts by s2ms
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btw, I have already replaced the voltage regulator...
Pat, did you replace the voltage regulator with a modern solid state unit? I was having exactly the same issue with my car using one of the AMK repop voltage regulators. Put in a new Motorcraft regulator and problem solved.
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As far as rebuilders the short answer is no. Nobody has come up with a rebuilder for the crimp style pumps and lots of us have looked into it. Most of the discussions about this are in the "Archived Posts", here's a few:
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…e&TOPIC_ID=1673
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…e&TOPIC_ID=4271
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=4457</p><p>
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Interesting observation about the orientation of the checkered flags, I'd never noticed that before.
I emailed Jim about this and he said he had seen original decals both ways and that the ones he had done were exactly like a NOS air cleaner he had maybe 20 years ago.
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Here is a hi-res scan of one of Jim Cowles' decals. The lines and text are very crisp. It's the best decal I've seen, I'm not sure if he has them made especially for him or if other suppliers carry it as well.
[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/hpdecal.jpg]
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The one currently on ebay does not have the spring under the arm, I asked. The arm is also not the correct 4201 arm so doesn't have a provision to mount a lower spring. Also, if you notice on the zinc dichromate crimpted part, the vertical connection towers are rounded at the bottom end, not squared like originals so this must be a later piece.
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Quote from rcgt350
Forgot to mention, the decals are repro. Just thought I would put on the one that looks the closest to original. Randy
Some of the better repops do have the engineering# like originals did, that's what I was trying to say. The ones Jim Cowles sells even have the cellophane top layer and are really nice IMHO. Other vendors may carry these as well.
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Originals had the Ford part# in very small print in the lower right hand corner of the decal, that would be another thing to check for on yours.
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That's a lot of different codes. Here's what we have so far in order:
2A, 2D, 3B, 3D, 3G, 4B, 4D, 5B(2), 5D, 6D, 7A(2), 8D.
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Including the one on my car I have four original coils. The codes are 2A, 7A, 4D, and 8D. It would be interesting to know what other people have for codes.
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Pull a valve cover off, if "Buddy Bar Casting Co" is cast on the inside they're original. If not, they're repops.
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Quote from CharlesTurner
The original spokes were chrome.
Right, I was referring to the Dynacorn wheel which I was told has stainless spokes. Would like to confirm that.
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Quote from Scott302
Actually what you see listed are two different wheels from two suppliers. The wheel only is VERY nice and should not upset too many judges. It's draw back it that some of them have issues with the chrome trim ring on the perimeter of the wheel becoming loose with changes in temperature & humidity. This was more evident is eearly production pieces and is much less a problem now....
Scott, isn't the "wheel only" the Dynacorn wheel? I have one of the later production units and it is very nice. Certainly some sublte differences when compared closely to an original but still quite nice. I was under the impression the spokes are not chrome but stainless on it, is that correct?
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Now this is some fun stuff!
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Quote from b9folk
One other thing... I have an old repro fan shroud without the rubber pad. I've read the numerous previous posts about it. Is there someplace to get the staples and/or the pad, or should I just get the newer correct repro?
I just swapped in a correct date coded radiator and decided to add the rubber pad to the Ford service replacement shroud at the same time while things were apart. I got staples that look pretty close at a hardware store and a chunk of correct thickness sheet rubber at a shoe repair place. For about $4 I think it looks at least as good as the repops.
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Ditto that. Bill rechromed/rebuilt my original shifter. Price was more than fair.
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Quote from round2K
I don't consider Shelbys to be K codes; they are Shelby American cars. They may have started with a special order version of a K on their way to becoming Shelbys, but they ceased being K codes when the VINs were covered with Shelby American VINs and completed with Shelby's various changes. If a car doesn't have a K code VIN it's not a K code.
While this thread has gotten off track a bit I respectfully disagree that Shelbys aren't K-codes. They do have a K-code VIN. OK, it's hidden, but without that VIN (excluding the exception discussed above) it's not a Shelby. The primary way to validate an original 65-67 GT350 is to verify that the Ford K VIN matches the Shelby American VIN, that's the very first place to check. The link is very strong. We can split hairs about this but I think the fact that there are so many Shelby owners on this forum shows we consider our cars K-codes. I wouldn't belong to this site if I didn't think so.
I have certainly gained more information and enjoyment from this forum than any of the other Shelby or Mustang sites together.
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John, here's the text describing that picture: "A new gas tank was found that has the US Steel stamping, which was on the sheet of steel when the fuel tanks were stamped out." Your guess is as good as mine if they mean NOS or not. Possibly Ford was still supplying service replacement 65-66 Mustang gas tanks back in 1991?
It's hard to tell for sure but the date code on the Boss 302 tank appears to be "11 27 69" which makes sense. The code on the GT350 tank looks like "10 (1or2)5 65" so maybe it is a NOS OE tank assuming nothing was altered.
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John, you are right, the 66 GT350 convert. article is from the Sept. 91 issue of M&F. My bad, sorry about that.
I agree the Inline Tube GM stencil looks a lot like the Boss pic except the USS logo is larger like the GT350 tank pic. I would guess there were several different versions of the stamp.
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Quote from map351
I restored a 66 Hertz car for Fran Kress and found a interesting fact. When Fran was in the process of buying car i lifted the Shelby VIN plate to make sure the chassis had the correct ford VIN # under the plate. And to my surprise it was a C code car i contacted SAAC and the verified it was the correct Ford Vin for that Hertz car. I also know of a T code Shelby and verified by the experts. There's a few more Shelby's that are Not K cars but are the correct cars & VIN # . I understand there's a double stamp C&T code and a few A code Shelby around here too..
Who said all Shelby's were K cars! Don't believe everything you read...
As the story goes The assembly plant was short on K chassis and the Old Man needed cars so they sent what fastbacks they had...
I can't speak for the other years, but for 65-66 SAAC has records for exactly ONE car that didn't have a K in the Ford VIN. The unit sequence number was correct for that car according to Shelby American records, everything else about that car was perfect. The car is obviously a factory fender mis-stamp, not some assembly line substitution. That may well be the car you restored for Fran Kress but any other 65-66 GT350's without a K VIN are clones with a story or rebodies.
