Posts by s2ms

I would assume the orange Autolite B7SZ-9601-A (FA-41) with round hole mesh would be correct.

Quote from J_Speegle

Bought my last Motorsport ones (believe they are marked D0...) from Summitt

Yep, the Motorsport impellers are cast with the Boss 302 D0ZE number.

Hi Bo,

I have had two of the replacement HiPo/Boss 302 impellers installed in C6OE pumps and they work great. They are no longer listed in the Ford catalogs but I believe there are still a few around so anyone looking for one can also try their local Ford dealer. It is still listed on the Motorsports website. The Motorsport part# is M-8512-A302, cost is about $35.

Dave

AFAIK all open letter valve covers are Buddy Bar castings. They were OE on all 65 GT350's and 66 GT350's up to somewhere between Shelby VIN 1400-1500 at which point the black crinkle finish closed letter style started showing up.

Quote from 6hypo5conv

Thanks for all the replies! and suggestions! I've seen the ones on Ebay, and I wonder if they or any other "old" spark plugs in general can go "stale" sitting on the shelf?

Unless they are rusted to the point they won't clean up, old plugs should work fine. I've used NOS BF-32's for years and never had any problems.

Quote from BoS

I bought Autolite 45's as a replacement for BF32's.

Guess it has been awhile since I looked at Autolite part numbers, seems the old #34 and #35 I mentioned above no longer exist but have been replaced by the #45 as Bo and Dave said. You can still get the old BF-22 equivalent as Autolite AR33 but these would be too cold for a street car. Looks like Motorcraft BF-42 is also no longer available from Ford.

The "new" equivalent for the BF-32 was Autolite #34 but AFAIK it's no longer in production. I don't believe the Ford Motorcraft BF-32 is available either.

Haven't checked for a while I think all that's left is Motorcraft BF-42 or the Autolite #35 equivalent.

Quote from bobmannel

The B3 tells you it was for an early HiPo. Shelby was getting engines at this time and probably had them fully degreed. On the Fairlanes they were not.

Bob, I assume you're talking about Cobra engines, is that correct?

Do you absolutely need NOS or will a nice OE set work? There is a set that looks pretty good on ebay right now here. I bought a LH side like this a while back and just repainted it, now looks as good as NOS.

Here are the pics of Doug's 4201:

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/4201-1.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/4201-2.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/4201-3.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/4201-4.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/4201-5.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/4201-6.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/4201-7.jpg]

The Centerforce dual friction unit in my car has less pedal pressure than the stock HiPo clutch had but I've never used a Centerforce 1 so can't compare the two.

The 69 Mach 1 CJ is one of my all time favorite body/engine combos. Have fun!

If you aren't absolutely concerned with using the original clutch I highly recommend the Centerforce dual friction.

I would recommend picking up a copy of Bob Mannel's SBF book. It is hands down the best source of info for all things SBF related from 1962-1969. You can buy it online at: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/

I haven't used him but a number of forum members have used the Damper Doctor and have been very satisfied with the results.

Damper Doctor

1055 Parkview Avenue

Redding, CA 96001

530-246-2984

Quote from BoS

I bought Pertronix for my 67 many years ago and it didn't do much difference except that I didn't need to perform the adjustments. Bought a Pertronix coil and saw some performance difference. Finally I bought Pertronix wires and that made a big difference in comparison with Marti's HiPo steel core ones. I can really recommend to use all three together. The performance and throttle response improved a lot.

/Bo

Good points Bo (no pun intended). Now if we could only convince Pertronix (or anybody) to make a high quality yellow top coil and plug wires that look like Marti's HiPo steel core ones we may have a winning combination.

Quote from 6hypo5conv

Do you use 2 pertronix units in place of the dual points??

You use only one Pertronix unit. The difference between the single and dual point application is the breaker plate.

Quote from 289kford

they offer 2 models for Ford, single point conversion, and a dual point conversion. I have the Pertronix I dual point conversion. I assume the newer Pertronix II has the same offerings.

The Pertronix II does have a dual point conversion but it can't be used with the steel core HiPo spark plug wires.

I've always just adjusted each set to .020 with a gap gauge and never had a problem.

If you go with a Pertronix carry a spare, or your original dual point setup in the trunk. From first hand experience a Pertronix can die suddenly. I know several people who have had a Pertronix die as well.

Complete set of four NOS C4DZ-16758-B hood bumpers in the original Ford package. $40, price includes USPS Priority shipping. Anyone interested in these before I put them on ebay? **SOLD**

Dave

Yeah, I've seen a number of other HiPo cranks with the polish mark and agree it's usually pretty obvious. The crank did have some scoring from the engine blowup so possibly sections of it were bead blasted to smooth sharp edges or something?

Quote

...To date I have not heard of a documented unmolested 289 HiPo being taken apart and not having the polished spot on the rear counterweight. There can always be a first time, but I have not heard of it...

The original crank from my GT350 did not have a polished spot on the rear counterweight, at least I couldn't find one. The crank had to be turned after the engine blew during a race in 1973 so maybe the cleaning process at the machine shop made the spot somewhat hidden?