Mark,
Thanks for the story. I had exactly the same problem with one of the new repop yellow tops. The car started running rough a few miles from my house right after installing it. Swapped in an original I had on the shelf and problem solved.
Dave
Posts by s2ms
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I'm currently running a cam with .552 int/.568 ex lift but am also using 1.94/1.60 valves.
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Here's the link, check the bottom of the last page.......
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Quote
The coil is a yellow top repo from Dennis Carpenter, which is also new.....why can't someone make a hot yellow top coil?
Keep an original yellow top in the trunk. I have had two repos fail on me including one of the new designs.
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Fred,
Are these the same ones Jim Cowles has just started selling?
Dave
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Sorry to hear about your engine. A reputable builder should stand by their work, have you contacted them about this?
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Duncan, glad to hear the car is doing well. It sure did look, and sound, great on our Morton drive. That Dave Bliss sure knows how to build a motor eh?
And how about a few pics of the vert? OK, I'll get that started.....you can see a pic of Duncan's vert at the link below:
http://www.wasaac.org/gallery/events/morton08/08mort14.jpg
Dave
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Z. Ray has a good point. Try switching the loose nut with a good one, that should tell you if the problem is the nut or elsewhere.
Dave
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Since HiPos have solid lifter cams with adjustable valves the nut is not torqued but tighted to get the correct valve lash. The nuts have an interference fit thread that stays tight but they will back off over time which is why they must be adjusted periodically.
If you have one that is loosening quickly it should be replaced. If you are going to replace all 16 you might as well get polylocks which have a jam nut and will stay tight much longer.
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Quote from Bramick
It's showing it for 67-70. Is that ok?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/catalog_site/M…_Site/00100.htm
I would check with a Ford dealer, they told me that number was used for 65-66. I've been using one for about a year now and it's been great.
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C8AX-6507-B: 65-68 427 Tunnel Port
DOAZ-6507-J: 67-70 428 (non-CJ), standard stem size
Hope this helps, my books don't have any info on the C3AZ valve
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Quote from BlueK
1) noticed very small amount of greyish smoke coming thru my oil filler cap. Is this normal? Suggestions on what the problem may be.
Make sure you PCV valve is functioning properly. If it's clogged crankcase pressure will exit out the breather cap.
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Charging system:
Solid state voltage regulator. These are still available from Ford, FPOZ-10316-A, Motorcraft# GR-540-B. Drill out the cover rivets and attach an AMK or nice original cover for the correct look.
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Here ya go. For orientation, the paint daubs are at the rear of the bottom leaf.
[Blocked Image: http://1965gt350mustang.com/temp/springs02.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://1965gt350mustang.com/temp/springs.jpg]
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Quote from round2K
Beyond bolt on manifolds and the carburetor there is no fundamental difference between an early GT350 motor and a K code; they are the same engine.
The only exception to that I'm aware of would be the 65 R-Model engines, but that's a different story........
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Going from memory so please correct me if I'm wrong, here are a few more changes done to at least some cars:
- Larger Holley 3255 carb, 780 cfm.
- R-Model intakes were not drilled for PCV vaccum fittings.
- Valve covers were standard steel units, each had a breather cap tube
- Electric fuel pumps
- Different camshaft?
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Ring clamps on both ends.
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I bought the one on the right in the pic above on ebay several years ago, it was part of a larger parts deal and got lucky. Took it apart and had the housing replated with a bunch of other stuff.
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Thanks for the info guys. Bob Mannel's book says the casting number may be there but I have yet to see one OE on a 65-66 HiPo. I do have a correct length HiPo spacer with the casting number but bought it at a swap meet so have no idea what it came off of.
