Posts by s2ms

My car has both the long 7523 lower spring which attaches to the release lever and the upper 7523.

Mark,

Here is a pic of one of my originals, arrow shows where the part number and date code is. IMO installing a set of Eaton springs and replacing the bottom leaf with the OE leaf is a great idea.

Dave

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/springs02.jpg]

Troy,

I agree with Jim, I remember reading somewhere when the running change was made but can't find the reference at the moment, it was somewhere between Jan - March 66 though. I have the same setup on my late March 66 SJ car. Your July 66 car should definitely have this and is likely missing the OE Z-bar with the hole.

Let me know if you find a source for the spring, I've never been able to find one and would like a backup.

Dave

Dave, the Brinell mark is typically on the rear raised pad, here's a picture. There is also a small BB size depression in the polished area. This flywheel has been rebalanced several times so the balance marks are not as original. Dave

[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/flywheel.jpg]

Quote from CharlesTurner

They were intended to be on all cars at all plants.

Charles, thanks for the info.

Were these OK decals routinely put on all cars or more common at certain plants?

The arm for a HiPo pump, with the seat for the external spring, is stamped 177-226. Non-HiPo pumps do not have the seat and are stamped 177-220. For some reason it seems it was common rebuilding practice to remove the 177-226 arm from a HiPo pump and replace it with a standard 177-220 arm and the extra lever for an external spring and removing the internal spring as Fred mentions.

O-1719 is just the casting number for the pump body which is the same for all pumps this style. The Carter number stamped on the side of the mounting flange will ID the pump. For 1966 standard pumps are stamped 4193S, HiPo is stamped 4201S.

Quote from Mu5tanggt

Here are some pics of the fuel pump off of my Kar, it was leaking so its been replaced with a Carter M6588 for now. This was a Hipo service replacement reman pump purchased from Ford in the mid 80's. Theres no spring under the button, the only stamping left is an S. Any ideas?

The fact that this is a reman pump probably explains the missing spring under the button. What number is stamped in the under side of the arm? Does the lower spring contact the arm directly (OE style) or does it contact a second smaller lever (M6588 style)?

Hi Ralph,

At this point I'll probably keep it if I can't find one with a better date but I'll let you know if I change my mind.

Thanks,

Dave

An original Cobra T-pan will have the S1MS part number cast on a slightly raised pad on the bottom rear.

I have an original HiPo flywheel with a 5C4 date, C3OE-6380-B casting number. The orange paint daub and Brinnel hardness mark are plainly visible. Lot's of material left, don't think it's ever been resurfaced.

Would like to trade for one in like condition with a Dec. 65 - Feb. 66 date code.

Thanks,

Dave

The only difference between a HiPo pump and standard 289 pump is the impeller, the housing is the same.

What year car? While not plentiful, the correct casting number pump housings, whether aluminum or cast iron, are out there. Even one of the major auto supply stores may have what you want if you look hard enough. I would suggest finding a correct casting number pump for your engine, since that is the visible part, and try to find a HiPo impeller to install later if that's important.

I've never seen a C5 with the step down in the outer ring but that doesn't mean it never happened.

Is this a balancer you sent to the Damper Doctor for rebuild or did you buy it this way? If the later I would guess they used an OE C5 inner ring and service replacement C8 outer in the rebuilding process.

Mark,

I had the same problem last year with my car (4sp) not turning off and having to pull the coil wire. It turned out to be the solenoid.

Dave

The HiPo flywheel is counter balanced to 30.4 oz.in.

Early "double hump" style. Would need to be rechromed to be perfect but very nice as is. No dents, rust, or pits. Just some small bubbles in the valleys. Pictures available. $265 which includes shipping.

***SOLD***

Quote from hockeylife

Some would even take an old valve cover and cut the center out to adjust.

I used to use that method, it would help contain oil splash a little, still messy. Having some oil hit the headers and start a small fire convinced me to stick with the engine off method.

There has been a lot of discussion on the SAAC Forum regarding the correct pump for the carry over cars, you need a cast iron pump with a C5OE-8505B casting number.

Quote from CharlesTurner

One on the right has the tang, the other doesn't. I think the original intent of that image was to show that even though there was a change, the p/n remained the same.

I originally posted that photo a few years ago and Charles is correct.

Hi Bo, 5S114 and 5S545 both have plastic rings in period photos. I will ask Mark what 5S284 had since I'm sure they are original. Dave