Charles,
Looks like you have your hands full with that car! Makes me appreciate mine. It's been fun these past few weeks taking all the parts off and stripping them - finding the cool original date coded part numbers and such. I can't believe how complete it still is.
Can't wait to see that Boss!
Just got my order and among other things, I gotta tell you about the paint and my customer service when I called.
Catalog and invoice states:
KR-1612 - Semi-Gloss Black engine paint
KR-1923 Ford Corporate Blue Engine paint
Now we all know part numbers and we all know that Krylon 1923 is Ford Corporate Blue and that Krylon 1612 is Black Semi Gloss.
Their part numbers and descriptions make me believe that they are selling Krylon 1923 and Krylon 1612 paint. What they sell is actually VHT paint - New Ford Blue and GM semi-gloss black.
When I called, the guy who answered was rude and argumentative. A later call with the owner got the problem resolved for me. He's a good guy and easy to talk to. A true Mustang man.
Good pic Charles. I've never actually seen a car done correctly like that!
Thanks for all the help Lyle. I got the proper puller from O'Reily - They rent for free if you return it! Worked great, and it's off now. Thanks to everybody here for your help. Stay tuned as now the real fun begins!
Troy
Actually, I was planning on sanding again with 100, and then 220 prior to primer and paint.
Here are some pics of the firewall with body color and wierd solder stuff. My car's paint code is Y7, which was thought by the PO to be Ivy Green Metallic. Other sources say Y7 is Dark Moss Green metallic. I'm not sure what is definitive, but the current overspray samples and other original paint area like under the cowl brace area when I removed the braces look pretty close to the Ivy Green the car is currently painted. Not sure what the difference is between the Moss and Ivy....
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/firewall/0002.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/firewall/0003.jpg]
The green paint on the firewall is very "slippery??" I don't know how well paint will stick. I've wet sanded it with 60 grit. Should I strip to bare metal?
The lower cowl area as you can also see looks pretty bad, but untouched. I think I will leave it, though I'm tempted just to paint it all black with the rest of the underhood.
Any idea about the solder mess? Should I grind it down as best I can?
I sanded all the runs in the bay to bare metal and feathered the edges. Feels smooth with my hands. Was thinking this was good enough as I also scotch brited the entire compartment with degreaser, power washed, orbital sanded with 60 grit and then hand wet sanded it as well. It's really clean right now. Should I proceed with spot priming the bare metal with etch primer, sand again and then paint?
OK, I stripped off the undercoating goo from my firewall and found body color paint underneath. Is this just overspray from the repaint, or did Ford potentially do this??? I also found some on the frame rail top under the firewall area.
I also have a hunk of welding or soder junk melted onto the middle upper portion of the firewall. It looks terrible, but won't chip or scrape off? Any ideas what this is there for and should I leave it alone?
Thanks,
Troy
Yea, Charles - That's why I changed my mind on the Eastwood paint. I want to try the rattle can approach still. I really wonder about the differences in the Rust Tough Krylon vs the regular vs the engine enamel for the bay...
I'm getting ready to paint my engine bay. I ordered all the Eastwood underhood black paint, but decided not to use it after talking to a friend about paint types and such. I decided I don't want to go with lacquer.
In my area, the "Rust Tough" Krylon and engine enamel Krylon is available. I haven't seen any of the 1612 or 1613 numbers at the local stores. I like the deep black of the Eastwood paint and don't wan't a dull finish. Looking for a good deep black, eggshell finish. Factory correct isn't as important as a good black, durable paint.
Has anybody compared the Rust Tough Krylons to the 1612/13? I believe the 1613 is a bit dull for my taste, but it seems that's what everybody uses. The 1612 probably is too glossy?? Anything in between???
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Lyle,
Nothing would please me more at this point in my frustrations with my current project. This weather screwed my progress up big! I was planning on painting in the bay this week during my week off. I guess I'll be shoveling snow instead.
Let me know what date/time works out for you if the offer is still good.
Troy
Cool. I also have a 66gtk - hence my handle. Welcome to the forum!
Good for you! I'll bet it feels satisfying. I haven't found one on my car yet. Got a pic of where it was?
In the the process of doing the same thing on my '66. Lot's of good info and great people here to help! Good luck! Off to get some Naval Jelly right now...
Troy
Except that I have all the electrical harnesses and accessories already off the car! Thanks for the tip, though. Any other thoughts?
B4 I send off, I need to get it removed! I got the right socket and even borrowed a puller. I can't get the large 15/16 nut loose at all. It feels like I'm about to break something. I squirted PG blaster in there and let it soak. Still won't budge. The whole balancer moves a bit when I try and loosen. I fear I will break something if I continue like this.
Any suggestions?
They can rebuild the Harmonic Balancer? That would be better than getting a new one as they are very expensive and hard to find. Any recommendations on how to locate such an expert?
My 3:50 OPEN rear is matted to a 4-speed. No equalock for my car!
Can't get enough room to paint, so I want to remove my harmonic balancer. Can I do this without having to totally retune the car? I'm leaving my dizzy intact for the detailing. My HB does have a timing mark on it from when my mechanic just tuned it last spring. I was told that it had "spun out a bit", hence the need for him to find a reference point and paint a timing mark.
How do I go about removing this for paint and re-intalling it correctly?
Thanks,
Troy
