Posts by 66gtk

    Thanks for all the info- you guys are all great! Just picked up a '65 shelby clone. This one is special, and has a great motor built to Shelby specs. It has the 4 speed, but only a 3.00:1 rear. Runs great on the highway. Was doing 75 MPH at just under 3000 RPMs and getting 15 MPG on the way home with it. It's a great driving car and is really fun with the Hurst shifter. Sure beats the hell out of my factory Ford shifter on the K.

    UPDATE:


    I had my car road force balanced yesterday. They spent almost 2 hours on my car and here's the best case they came up with:


    1. Suspension looks good

    2. 3 out of my 4 wheels failed the test and should be replaced. 1 of those wheels is a "NEW" styled steel wheel.

    3. 3 out of my 4 tires failed the test and should be replaced. Too bad the good tire isn't mounted on the good wheel (:


    They told me it would be pointless to attempt an alignment and that match mounting them would still yeild a failed result according to the road force computer.


    I think I'm just going to live with this minor inconvenience. Most people wouldn't even notice it. I'll look at replacing tires and wheels together in the future. Not sure where to find true SS wheels, though ):


    Troy

    For that asking price, he should fix many of the glaring problems in the engine compartment and it should be properly detailed. It looks far from an "All original survivor" to me. Just because it has original FOMOCO sheetmetal, that doesn't make it a "survivor". I've also seen quite a few Mustangs with that color combo in both convertible and fastback. All of them were GTs as well. I just can't get over the way some dealers describe their cars...

    So far, 2 very different results. Are you both running the same setup as mine? I'd be most curious as to the 60 MPH RPM and the reultant peak torque area/speed. I'm also very curious about the 70 MPH area as I will be driving the car about 450 miles at that speed in the summer heat this year. Don't know how much more gas I'll burn at 75. I've actually heard from some Mustang owners that their cars get better gas mileage at around 80 MPH than at 70 MPH. Seems wierd to me, but maybe there is something to it...

    I don't have a rally pac, so I can't measure the RPMs.... My brother spent neary $20K chasing a vibration in his corvette with no luck. Rebuilt motor, balanced motor, new exhaust, 3 driveshafts, U joints gallore....I'll have to ask him about a tranny mount.

    This is another case in point as to why I strongly disagree with MCA on reproduction data plates and heavy point deductions for body color that doesn't match the data plate. So much for preserving the history of these Mustangs. I find it ironic that they don't discourage changing the data plate to fit the "taste" of the owner. I feel an owner can do whatever they want to their car, including changing the body color, but they shouldn't get points deducted for doing so if it was available during that year.

    Another update on MY car -


    I rotated the tires/wheels last night (took more time than I had planned). I noticed as I was wheeling one of the front tires to the rear that I heard a rattle inside the tire. It appears there is some debri or small pepple loose in the inner tire area. Nothing big, but very small. Maybe that is causing some trouble? The tire holds air very well and no leaks or punctures I can find.


    So after I get everything torqued up, I take it for a long spin. Here are my impressions:


    1. The shimmy has changed a bit. It now happens at around 60 MPH instead of 55 MPH, and it is not as bad as it was.


    2. If I accelerate steadily through the range to 65-70 MPH, I don't notice a problem at all. When I "cruise" at the 60 MPH range I notice it, but it isn't as bad as it used to be.


    Unfortunately, I do way more driving at 60 MPH than at 55 MPH, so this is still a problem. Do you think, by making the problem change with a rotation has isolated the problem to the wheel/tires? They have been re-balanced a number of times over the years, but never "road force" balanced.


    I also notice that I am in need of an alignment. This was noticed earlier this spring. Should I take care of the alignment before or after I do a road force balance, which will help me identify any wheel/tire issues.


    Any other thoughts?


    Thanks,

    Troy

    Not sure the current condition of your car or your restoration plans, but why not just keep it RED until you absolutely need to redo it due to more complete restoration needs. I would make sure you see a honey gold car in PERSON before making your final decision. I agree that it would be cool to return it to original, especially since it is different. I remember back in the 80's they did a honey gold '65 convertible spread in Mustang Monthly. The car was a 2 page full spread and was drop dead georgeous! It certainly left an impression on me - even 20 years later. I had it cut out hanging up in my room.