Good info - thanks guys.
Posts by 66gtk
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What's your budget?
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I would post the VIN of the motor your have - somebody out here may have the car for it. Also post it on SAAC forum or something as it may also belong to a Shelby missing it's motor. Most likely the car may have been destroyed somehow, but they are being resurected now more than ever. If you sell the engine, you could use the funds to purchase a different block (granted you are taking it all apart anyway).
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Quote from 66gtk
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Very few who have experienced an original, well setup K code with the proper C servo C-4 trans would say it sucks. They were very different to drive than a stock C-4.
The only part I don't like is that you never know when it will shift, as in RPM. Other than that, the 'Bow Tie' crowd pretty much are in awe.
Jim
True, usually you can count on a shift (hard) at tire breaking RPM as long as you keep your foot down. To make it shift when you want, just ease up on the gas a little and it will shift pretty much when you want it to. That's been my experience in a GT350H.
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Quote from dunc289
Very few who have experienced an original, well setup K code with the proper C servo C-4 trans would say it sucks. They were very different to drive than a stock C-4.
Amen to that, brother!
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That's great- congrats!
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I'm not badmouthing Kurt in any of these threads - just telling my story about the carb. He's been very friendly and eager to fix it over and over again, but at some point enough is enough. I started with a 4100 1.2 that Kurt provided the core for and it was cloned. There was no slight of hand or anything like that!
Also, I've heard several stories about Pony Carbs not working right, either. Sometimes, the core is simply not a good canditate for resto, no matter how good it looks. My mechanic has had to fix and rework dozens of "brand new" Pony Carbs. For now, I'm keeping my crappy Holley, because it works on my car (with some tinkering).
Troy
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$4500 to "Strip and repaint entire car"??? That seems too cheap. Has anybody seend a KAR paint job? I have not, but am wondering what you get for $4500. For a show paint job, materials for a strip and paint may cost almost that much.
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The carb went back to Kurt today and is no longer available. I'm sure he will try to quickly sell it.
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Holy crap! That's cool - You didn't have to sell the K did you??
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I have a CLONE HiPo Autolite 4100 for a 4 speed car. You can see pictures here:
http://www.customshowboards.com/kcode/carb/
I had this carb restored by KP carbs over the winter and got around to installing it earlier this month. I sent it back to him as there was no adjustment in the A/F mixture screws and Kurt found some debri in the primary booster above the idle circuit, which he repaired, road tested on a car and shipped back to me. I installed it last week, and I couldn't get it to idle correctly. It ran OK past idle, but doesn't want to come off high-idle speed without manual manipulation of the idle arm. I'm not a mechanic and I don't know how to work on these things. I took it to my mechanic and he couldn't figure out the idle problem without taking it apart. Kurt swears up and down that it works perfectly and tested it on a car to determine such. That's all I know about this carb. It's still on my car, but it's coming off if I can sell it quickly. If I knew how to adjust carbs I would tinker with it, but my mechanic is over $100/hour...
Asking $575 plus shipping sold as-is
Here's a pic I took yesterday
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/Kcode/carb.jpg]
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How about the Street Avenger 570 CFM? Will that bolt up with the stock fuel line? It's hard to figure out what comes with that carb as it appears to be a dual feed fuel system. Don't know if one could neatly tuck in rubber lines and hide them mostly under the air cleaner....
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Is there a GREAT aftermarket carb that I can use the the stock fuel line (Pump to carb)?
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The second pic is INSIDE a parking garage at night with the overhead lighting.
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pics taken last night
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/Kcode/rearb.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/Kcode/garage4.jpg]
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I think what's happenning is the area shown here sticks after each accelaration. I can pull it up manually and it idles fine. Once I accelerate the carb, it sticks again. What is this? Of course I have removed the choke cable in this photo to help me isolate if there was any interference or binding? There was no difference in the operation and the choke plate stays wide open.
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/Kcode/autlite.jpg]
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I have plenty of spring tension, I can assure you of that. How do I check for binding?? What area should I look into?
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I installed my new rebuilt 4100 and it runs fine in gear under power/load. Idles good when I start it up. HOWEVER, the throttle is stuck somehow. The throttle rod and spring are new and installed correctly. If I blib the throttle hard, I can make the car idle, but it is racing when I engage the clutch when I come to a stop. The choke plate is working correctly and is all the way open, so it's not that.
Any ideas? I've already sent this carb back to get re-done once and was assured it was tested (again). The first time I sent it back, it was a plugged power booster. This is a different problem, I think.
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In the rear seat of a fastback? Mind doesn't have seatbelts or provisions for one. If yours does, and you can get your hands behind the childseat area where they attach, use that.
In my 'vert I had to replace the rear factory belts with aftermarket ones so I could change the click point off to one side instead of in the center (belly button). No other way to get the car seat in there.