Posts by 66gtk

Found some snapshots from 1992. Maybe this will help?

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I don't have anything to compare it to, since I never did this before, nor did I have original carpeting that came out of the car to compare it to, either. But for an average Joe (me), and driver/show car (not trailered concours), I think it will pass as good as anything else currently available. I did notice that the center hump seemed a bit wide at the top, but I don't know if I can attribute this to my car being a convertible?

I will say that it looked great when I put it in. After a season of very light use, I will report that it isn't nearly as durable as original carpeting. Some areas are beginning to look a little worn already - especially the matching carpeted floor mats, but still acceptable for what I need it for, especially considering the price.

UPDATE - first carpet install ever review

http://blog.virginiaclassicmustang.com/2008/09/mustan…stallation.html

give me a day or so - I think I have a pic of my dad's Hertz with Polyglass tires...

T-5 transmission!

I'd like to do that setup sometime on my fastback. I have to wait until the kids are older so I don't scare them to death, though. I also wonder just "how loud" they really are and what to do when/if I ever got pulled over. Are these exhaust systems even street legal anymore?

I find it humorous that Jay has a radio with 8 track in his car. As if you could ever hear it over that exhaust note. Must be for when the car is parked only (:

Any interest in a complete convertible manual trans full length console 65-66 with all original metal pieces, wiring lights, etc. in good condition. Currently painted white. I just pulled it from my 'vert and might sell it. Currently has reproduction pony wood grain stickers on it as well. If interested, make me an offer. Attached pic shows the console in my Kar prior to removing it.

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What about the gap??

Wow - good price!

I'm putting a new set of plugs and wires on my fastback - modified 302 with a mild cam, headers, highrise intake, Holly 650 double pumper...

I was thinking .40, is that too much? I'm replacing the plugs with autolite 45s, which is what I pulled out of there (I have no idea how old they were) I have a Mallory Unilite breakerless distributor, 8mm silicone plug wires and MSD Blaster2 coil.

Thanks,

Troy

Well, I took it around the block a few times last night and all is well. Now I have the dreaded lower radiator hose leak at the water pump. Gotta love that (: Of course the hardest one to reach into is the one that leaks! I must have gotten too much paint in that hose area as the worm clamp is tight.

The 1st solenoid was working on the same car before I took it apart. The second was an older one I had laying around that was working when I removed it from my other car last year. You can see why I was hesitant to accept that a third solenoid would work, but it did the trick!

I just put one on that I got at O'Reillys so I could put my concours correct repo back on my convertible. It looks identical to my $40 concours reproduction without the FoMoCo stamp and different lock washers on the side posts. It also has a "Made in the USA" engraving at the top. It was $20. I haven't fired it up yet, but lets hope it still works (:

'cuz the first 2 went BAD! What a time waster - I also replaced the battery cables - but that alone did not do the trick, either.

3 solenoids later and a new set of battery cables did the trick...

I detailed the bay and when I re-hooked up the wires, I made a bad mistake - My '65 has non-stock wiring, and I mistakenly hooked up a ground wire to the positive (opposite side of the Neg bat wire) side of the solonoid in addition to the hook up that's supposed to be there to the engine block front bolt. When I attempted to hook up the neg terminal of the bat, sparks went flying and solder was flinging around. I was lucky enough to get it off quickly, but I may have damaged something? The battery wires were hot, and I smelled a burning type smell (probably from the battery posts...)

I re-looked at my diagrams, I realized the error I made and connected that ground wire back with the other engine block ground as per my pre-dissaembly pictures. I've double and triple checked all my connections, but can't get the car to turn over. Here's what I've done:

I charged the battery, but still no change - get a click sound on the voltage reg when I turn the key to "start" but that's it. I then used the battery from my other car (in case my battery was damaged) and the battery cables and still no change. I replaced the Solonoid and no change, I replaced the voltage regulator and no change.

What else can I do to isolate this problem? Did I fry the whole wiring harness or starter? My lights all work correctly, heater fan, radio, but no start.

Any help is appreciated!

Troy

Can you still have solid lifters with non-adjustable rocker arm studs? You can tell my level of mechanical ability....

Thanks Richard - Are you saying I don't have to adjust the valves on this engine like I do on my HiPo?

These are on my clone - Anybody know what these heads are for - obviously a 302 - any ID on the springs or other interesting parts you can see?

Thanks - Troy

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That's a "3" on the head above

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Looks like a 9H6 casting and a "B"

Quote from 6hypo5conv

Heck, for that kind of money I'd be happy to use a common Motorcraft FL-1A from Wal-Mart & loose a couple of points!

No need to lose points - just paint the sucker with engine color and you are good to go. I always paint my oil filters before installing and it works just great. Better yet, buy a few and paint them all at once.