What do you prefer? If it helps, this is a factory pony interior car, GT, K code.
Console:
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No console:
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What do you prefer? If it helps, this is a factory pony interior car, GT, K code.
Console:
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No console:
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I have the following and can deliver to Columbus if you decide to purchase. I'm packing the trailer on Wed, so act fast if you want any of this.
NEW (never installed) Front end bra for 65-66 mustang (you can open the hood with this model) - $60 (SALE PENDING)
NEW (never installed) white plug-n-chug dual cup holder that goes into the ash tray piece - $35
Original full length console (no a/c) presently painted white with woodgrain cut for convertible. Good condition, no cracks, wiring intact with working light. All original top metal pieces (manual trans) with some piting - looks perfect from 4-5 feet away and it all photos, but some typical pitting. Have had on my K code for 10 years, and didn't reinstall it when I put new carpeting in. - $425
Extra original console top door in wonderful shape 1-2 very small incospicuous pits, original metal backed woodgrain still in place and perfect. $75
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Looks nice - I wouldn't have advertised the 17K part - makes it sound like a CHEAP corner cut restoration to me...Full floors, new paint, new interior, new engine rebuild, etc....
still, the price seems very reasonable for a finished driveable fastback.
Wow! Can't wait to see the finished product.
glue or velcro?
Cut a swimming pool noodle in half (cross section), and mount it on the inside of your trailer at the door level. Then, if the door opens too far, you will hit the foam noodle, and not the interior trailer wall.. (:
That's interesting. I wasn't aware that any other manufacturer actually makes carpet for our Mustangs. Are we absolutely certain they just aren't reselling AAC carpet?
Quote from s2msquote:
Z.Rays suggestion of lowering the floats is also a good one. Symptoms of a high float level are more pronounced on hard braking.
It would make sense to me that a low float level on a Holley would also cause stalling when braking as the fuel surges to the front of the bowl and momentarily leaves the jets dry.
So you guys are saying 2 very different things?? I wish I knew more about carb tuning, but I simply don't.
Pictures of the carb? How long ago was it restored? Who restored it? How long ago was it removed in working condition, and how was it stored since then? Are all the choke pieces and other correct parts there and in working order?
Yes, still interested in the carb. Condition? Date code? Working? Price?
I'm pretty sure it's the real deal. I spoke to the owner extensively. He had it at the Falcon national convention 2 years ago when it was here in MN, and he was the talk of the show... This guy has a 9.8 second '68 fastback to boot. A whole pile of nice Fords in the stable... One of my fav was the Cali special - Black with Gold stripe. Had a ridiculously fast motor in that sucker - pushing 600 HP. He's a race car builder and knows his stuff.
So what is your favorite 1-2?
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I tried a rebuilt 1.12 Autolite 4100, and it was a nightmare. Sent it back twice and couldn't get it to work. My dad had a similar experience with his, and never got his restored 4100 to work either. Bad luck? I don't know, but it seems with the money these are exchanging hands for, there is a lot of opportunity for bad carbs to enter the market place in hopes of making a buck. The most knowledgable Ford mechanics I know have nothing good to say about the current popular "restored" carbs available on the market, and my own experience is in line with this. Maybe the 3rd time I'll get lucky, but is it worth the chance??
What's an 88 HiPo carb? I may be interested in a '66 4speed HiPo carb. If that's what you have, tell me more about it, and how much you want for it.
Oops - Dearborn, not Detroit (duh!) Thanks for the information. Just to clarify - ALL the Dearborn K codes had VIN stamped trans and engine?
It didn't have a "K" VIN, but it was a factory HiPo car. It was the Ranchero body style (truck)
I saw a Vintage Burgandy Comet/Ranchero HiPo yesterday. I've never seen anything like it. It was a Canadian version with a '66 Mustang style dash cluster, automatic floor shifter, 289 HiPo fender badging, and 8K RPM rally pack. Extremely cool car, and a genuine HiPo. I wonder how rare it is??
Regarding these Kars in '66..
Both had the same style radiator, correct?
Did Detroit Kars have buck tags in '66?
Did Detroit Kars typically have VIN stamped engines and trannys in '66?
Thanks,
Troy
Quote from 65Rangoonquote:
How often would you recommend rebuilding your carb with a kit? Consider a seasonal cruiser with about 1K miles a year....
I did my rebuild back in '99 as I recall inconjunction with the major overhaul of the engine. The car has been on the road since Mar 2000, and driven very close to 20k miles since then. To date, no internal/external leaks, performs extremely well, maintains its' adjustments and there is no rebuild planned anytime soon. I reckon what I'm saying is; I don't consider rebuild a time sensitive necessity. Instead I believe that when its performance starts to degrade, then that is when to act.
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That's AWESOME!!
Unfortunately, it's not an Autolite, but I have a 600 CFM Holley in service on my K. I noticed last season that my car would want to die when braking to a stop at times. It was intermittent, and worse when it was warm. Sometimes, I noticed it was more difficult to start after doing these things as well. I had gone through everything including new points, condensor, plugs, wires, timing, valve adj, and this problem still remains. I'm having a Ford guy go through the carb right now, but am also considering ditching the coil and points and getting new Pertronix units. I should also put an inline fuel filter in there as well. It just pains me to deviate too much from stock, but I do like to drive and enjoy my Kar, and I want it to be a reliable top performer as well.