I had KYB shocks and didn't like them - too harsh. Looking for something a bit better/different.
Thanks,
Troy
I had KYB shocks and didn't like them - too harsh. Looking for something a bit better/different.
Thanks,
Troy
Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. I appreciate the offer.
Troy
I need new shocks for my modified fastback for street use. Konis would be nice, but looking for something a little more affordable, but without a bone jarring harsh ride. I'm considering Bilsteins. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Troy
Registry says last known in IA. Owner told me he purchased in 1991 from Telstar Motors in SD as basket case, and has been in MN ever since. Restoration done in 1994. Door tag is as follows:
63A, 4, 26, 22D, 41, E, 5
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/6f09k/medium/_8214831-066.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/6f09k/medium/_8214832-067.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/6f09k/medium/_8214833-068.jpg]
The above photos show the only areas that seemed to be "saved" from the car. The rest of the floors and all frame rails were replaced. Any comments on these exhaust hanger locations or axle snubber thingy..
Thanks
How 'bout the "matching VIN stamped" T10 transmission?!?! He told me he also verified the VIN on the block the other day. I asked him for a picture of this, and he said he didn't take any, but he wrote the VIN down.
Found it advertised locally, so I drove 80 miles each way to take a look thinking I'd buy it if it was as advertised. I was told it was a factory GT and that the VIN was verified to match the car, door tag, engine and transmission. I was also told it was a FACTORY GT, when I directly asked. I asked again when I saw the car, and was then told it was not. I saw it advertised for $35K, but the price changed to $45K when I got there. It was also advertised as a true #1 concours car that would not dissapoint.
I'll let you guys judge for yourself, but what you can't see in these photos is that the rear frame rails are not from a dual exhaust car as I could put my fingers right through the holes where I shouldn't be able to. It's extremely clean, and would make a nice car for most people who aren't careful about what they are getting into. I don't want to use the R or F word, so I won't - you decide.
Coincidently, he had a matching '66 convertible, also for sale. Also, not a factory GT or Pony car, even though I was told it was. Again, rear frame rail on drivers side was replaced on that car, too.
OK, let's all go to K code school here, and have a little fun...
I'm considering purchasing a black '66 fastback with black interior. I think it's a sharp color on a fastback, but I'm not in love with black for a 'vert. I would want to sell this car in a few years down the road, and was curious what you all think of the color for a fastback.
If not black, what do you think IS the most desireable color for an early fastback.
fastastiK !!
Quote from k code 65obviously there cant be too many True Wimbledon White mustangs around ,
Yep! The newer formulas are all too white, I think.
Interesting results so far....
If you were to only have 1 classic Mustang and knew you had to have a K code, what would you rather own right now (assuming you could afford either)
Did they eliminate the lower spring when they went with this spring setup, or did they use both?
[Blocked Image: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/classic-tech/58587d1231606608-1966-289-4-speed-clutch-rod-spring-s-gt-clutch-springs.jpg]
Oh yea, my modified C code '65 Mustang DOES have this Z bar hole, but no mounting tab on the firewall (:
Troy
I have a July '66 Dearborn Kar, and using the photo here as a reference, I have the mounting tab under the master cylinder on the firewall, but no hole provision on my Z bar. Should I have a spring like this, and what if I don't have a z bar hole? Do I have the wrong Z bar for this kar?
[Blocked Image: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/classic-tech/59295d1232326311-1966-289-4-speed-clutch-rod-spring-s-clutch-spring.jpg]
Thanks,
Troy
Yep, I've tried the Zaino. I'm actually using Wizards products now as they are easier to get locally. I'm using the Meguiars Clay bar, but they are all pretty much the same. Learning to polish with the Porter Cable is the key to getting out swirls and such. However, the clay is the key to starting a polish with a good clean surface.
figure 6-8 hours of work...
I used a combination of materials, based on what I had laying around. The Porter Cable did most of the polishing/sealing work. If all by hand, figure 10 hours.