Posts by zray

Quote from cobraboy

My thanks to the guys who sent me info.

I bet you are really looking forward to my next 'quick' enquiry

none of your questions have been boring, keep 'em coming.

Z.

if you have a grand to throw at tires I've heard the Avon CR6 ZZ's are phenomenal. They come in medium and hard compounds.

however in 14", they only come in 185/70-14, which is actually close to the original tires.

http://rogerkrausracing.com/pages/pricing.html

Z.

Quote

".......... What I'm looking for is something that rides well and has a nice look with raised letters. It will be for the 14" rims..............."

in my opinion you can have "rides well" OR "raised (I guess you mean white) letters", but not both. I define rides well as meaning having good to great wet & dry traction. In case of emergency I don't want to hit a person, animal, or object because I bought a great looking tire that didn't have decent traction and handling qualities.

I use and can recommend BF Goodrich Traction T/A's, Unfortunately they don't come in many sizes. I use the 195/70-14 size. I can state for a fact they have better traction & can hold a curve better than 225/60-14 BF Goodrich Radial T/A (raised white letter tires).

TireRack.com has them for $68.00 ea.,

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.js…4TTAT&tab=Sizes

Z.

back to the topic, I wish I could have one of everything that Jim has restored. His pieces are just plain beautiful. I do have a T-10 shifter that he did for me several years ago. I have it bolted in place on the restored, and mothballed, T-10 transmission. It calls to me to row the gears every time I pass by it.

Z.

Quote from cobraboy

quote:

Jim when I think of a gorgeous pair I don't think of backing plates.

Good luck on your sale.

Ray

I guess the same thinking applies on both sides of the pond then

universal language ; )

Z.

Quote from iowa

back to the pressure plate

and disk

i've reviewed this thread

and am more confused than every to decide which way to go

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…1&TOPIC_ID=4251

if i decided on the centerforce system,

would i need the centerforce II system for 10"?

thanks

iowa

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I've used both the Centerforce Dual friction, and the Centerforce 1. For a stock Hi-Po engine the Centerforce 1 is plenty of clutch.

http://centerforce.com/product_detail…number=CF360030

http://centerforce.com/product_detail…rtnumber=280490

or you can buy from summit & save a little cash:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-CF360030/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-280490/

Z.

love the photos, especially the clothes, and the graffiti.

Z.

Quote from cobraboy

Off to Goodwood for the weekend tomorrow, cant wait. Lots of pretty ladies in their finery, Oh and great cars and racing too!

Anyone going ?.

I'm with you in spirit

Z.

Quote

".................... now he's putting in an 'H' pipe

and 'cut out's' on his exhaust system

iowa

ha ha .

cut outs ? does he have a contingency fund for tickets? Oh to be young again.

Z.

Quote

"......................................someone has siliconed this rod into the base of the distr. shaft

is this supposed to be a 'snug' fit?

when one pulls out the distr.

is this rod come out too

or does it stay in the block connected to the oil pump?......................."

thanks

iowa

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To fix it correctly, you need to get the shaft attached securely to the oil pump. Any other solution would be half-a**. It's really not that hard to drop the pan & fix it right.

Z.

I use ebc red stuff pads. very little dust & great bite when warm. I know others have also had good luck with the Porterfield R4-S pads. I used the Porterfield shoes in back & am satisfied with them as well.

Before I found out ebc made a rotor for our cars,I bought some Chinese rotors than I'm less than happy with. Going to get the ebc rotors as soon as I can. Although the photo shows them w/o studs, the ebc people assure me they come with them. Although not an OE rotor as you requested, they are a "performance" part ,as you also mentioned that was something you were looking for.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/red…ads/index.shtml

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EBC-GD7173/

Z.

I hate to think it, much less say it, but I don't think they think anyone (that matters) would notice.

Z.

double damn. love seeing an old Ford blast by the euro trash. No offense Cobra Boy

Z.

Quote from 6hypo5conv

Interesting......I don't really know where my hoses came from....I guess I'd better pinch the lower to see if there is already one in there...

the springs I've seen are so flimsy I don't think you can tell if one is there except by looking inside the hose.

Z.

I put about 30,000 miles on my car without the spring. Plenty of high rpm driving. Never had any indication that there was a problem with the coolant flow. Then I found a spring and put it in the lower hose & added another 10,000 + miles. Same results.

Just an opinion, but I'm thinking the hose material back in the day was NOT the same compound we have today in the hoses. And todays hoses are less likely to deform under a partial vacuum like they did 40 years ago.

Z. Ray

Quote from iowa

hmmm...

i didn't mean to raise a fuss.

i have all the original stamps in my car;

the visible one just medial to the L fender,

and the hidden one's on under both fender's!!

so don't need to stamp anything.

i was trying to imitate the avatar's on this forum

with a personalized one for me.

thus the need to know the font.

thanks for the links tho

will make interesting reading.

iowa

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uhhhhh,, never mind.

Z.

Quote from cobraboy

Another nice pic of the 'scruffy' car

not photoshop, but a nice trick to hide the flaws is the shadows.

Z.

don't know. but I hope you are not planning to stamp the number from your title on any new pieces of sheet metal. If they are not stamped then you have to leave them that way, or have your states DMV do it, & then you will likely end up with a title that says the VIN is state issued, even though it's the same VIN as Ford put on it.

it's a Federal felony to stamp a VIN unless you have a manufacturers license , Yes, even it's your own car. I know people do it all the time, but it's still a Federal & state felony, and could bite you in the ass at a traffic stop, or when trying to sell the car. If it was my car, as long as I had one VIN still in place, I wouldn't stamp a thing.

Hey don't blame me, I didn't write the law(s).

some relevant threads:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustan…ons-1965-a.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustan…er-missing.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustan…vin-stamps.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustan…uy-vintage.html

Z. Ray

Quote from lscman

Sounds like bull to me as my car is July/Aug 1964 built Hipo and distributor in it is C5 numbered with July 64 date and is original to my car so that story don't ad up...Sorry

It's takes more than one specific example to make a sweeping generalization, So your comment "...don't add up.."

Z.

not familiar with edelbrok, but is it possible the carb doesn't match well with the adaptor? If the autolite is handy, I'd try putting it back on to see the difference, if any.

Z.