Posts by zray

  • Brake Problem

    I don't think such a strategy will save you any $$$. I tried rebuilding mine 8 or 9 years ago. I leaked worse. I sent it to J. Cowles. I'm pretty sure it was releeved by him. It worked, and I haven't had to think about it since.


    Z.

  • Scott Fuller 66 Shelby/Hipo exhaust repro

    Quote from dunc289

    Tri-Y's would probably be louder....the question remains,who makes them that fit, that drop in and don't need to be modified...I bought a stainless set from Cleveland and they were wrong in so many ways, of course they claimed they were a drop-in fit..NOT. So who has found a set that fits and where did you get them.???:D:D


    I have a set of the inexpensive (currently $219.95) nickel plated Patriot Tri-y headers. They fit fine. I bought them from npd about 8 or 9 years ago. Considering the considerable use my car gets, they have held up rather well.


    Previously I had tried a set of plain painted Patriot Tri-y headers that did not fit exactly. They hit the pitman arm.


    Z.

  • Scott Fuller 66 Shelby/Hipo exhaust repro

    Quote from dunc289

    I may be wrong but Tri-Y's would be a serious departure from stock, like a big Holly. My insurance asks if its stock....and the exhaust system, with H pipe , etc., even with different mufflers, would still be stock as long as there were mufflers....my two cents.:D:D

    not stock for you, but stock for me. I was just pointing out that the proposed exhaust system, from headers, or manifolds, on to the end, is going to be serious investment.


    Z.

  • Scott Fuller 66 Shelby/Hipo exhaust repro

    Quote from cobraboy

    I may be, but I have a feeling that it would have to be my only purchase I would be able to make for the car in a given year.


    I don't think there is a projected price for the '66 system yet, but he gets about $2,000.00 for the '67 exhaust system. Throw in a set of J. Cowles Tri-y headers at $995.00 and you are starting to pile up some serious cash.


    Z.

  • steering box on 65 k code

    Quote from garthscars

    Thanks,I figured that it's going to be a relacement of the box..Thanks again Garth


    they can be rebuilt, usually at a cost less than the Flaming River boxes, and at much less cost than the rack & pinion conversions. Once rebuilt, they will last for years, In my opinion a freshly rebuilt Ford steering box compares VERY well with the more expensive rack & pinion systems.


    Z.

  • K&N to fit K code air filter housing # ??

    I'm not currently using one that is the Hi-Po style (am using one on the Paxton) but found this one on summit that is a close match. It is 2.313" x 14". You can do a search on the summit website if that is not close to the original filter size.


    http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Ty…%26N+air+filter


    Z.

    p.s. I have read that using the "K&N power top" can really be a measurable difference in HP on a dyno.


    http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Ty…%26N+air+filter

  • Radio Suppression Condensor

    Quote from bobmannel

    The clicking is probably coming from your ignition wires and not the alternator or regulator. Only way to get rid of it is to use radio interference suppression ignition wires, or add a special kit that put suppressors in line with the wires. Either way, you are adding resistance to the ignition wires.


    thanks for the diagnosis. I didn't provide the full picture of my ignition system, Its an msd system which may be cause of the radio noise. I'm using msd 8.5mm wires, msd dist. & digital 6 msd box. I do know msd makes a noise filter that may be the cure. I haven't tried one yet as the radio noise is pretty far down on my list of items to be addressed.


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8830/


    "..........If you experience radio noise after installing your MSD unit, then you may need to install one of these MSD noise filters. With a noise filter in place, the MSD unit will draw current through the noise filter instead of from the battery, so the unit will not affect any of your 12 V accessories. These filters come complete with a cover and a mounting bracket........."


    Z.

  • Radio Suppression Condensor

    Quote from dunc289

    My 66' has a really noisy am radio/8 track and if I were to get a noise suppressor that worked, where would I find one? Its not internal to the alternator, is it?:D:D. Anyone know someone who can restore this unit?:D:D


    I've bought 3 different used condensers over the years. None of them ever made any difference in the amount of rpm related static. I'd like to try a new (NOS) one to see if there is anything to be done about the click-click-click static that goes up & down with the rpm


    Z.

  • Radio Suppression Condensor

    Quote

    Ford said the external condenser was used until 7/9/65. If you alternator has been replaced, the replacement likely has the internal condenser.


    so after that date the condenser was mounted above the voltage regulator ? Was it the same condenser, only with a different connector?


    Z.

  • Brake Problem

    Quote from hipo_p51

    Just my two cents, but Cobra Automotive makes soem really nice stuff. The parts are on the pricey side, but well worth IMO.

    Bill


    despite my nit-picking, my thoughts exactly. If you are looking for any part more heavy-duty than stock, ask at Cobra Automotive. Also a fine source of information.


    Z.

  • Brake Problem

    I bought a nice one from cobraautomotive.com


    [Blocked Image: http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/zr…-master-cyl.jpg]


    what I like about it: huge reservoirs, & better stopping power from larger piston/bore, although that does require more leg effort. They sell pre-bent lines to match up with your prop. valve and distribution block.


    what I don't like: the m/c doesn't have an internal groove to capture the clip on the rod from the brake pedal. So conceivably the rod might come out of the m/c leaving you w/o brakes. It was easy enough to make a bracket to limit the upward travel of the brake pedal, but aggravating nonetheless. My pedal assembly didn't have an integral pedal stop for the brake, but I think it is supposed to have one ?? Another thing I don't like from the cobra automotive kit is the stainless brake lines. To get them to seal against the stock prop valve & dist. block you have to tighten them way to much for my liking. I prefer the ordinary mild steel lines.


    The RAYBESTOS Part # MC36440 dual bowl master cylinder is suppose to be great replacement for the '65-'66 single bowl m/c. It was original equipment on the '74 Maverick. It might be the one CJ Pony Parts sells:

    http://www.cjponyparts.com/dual-bowl-mast…65-1966/p/DBC3/


    added: looking at the CJ Pony ad, I see they are selling a rebuilt m/c. I would rather buy a new one (The RAYBESTOS Part # MC36440) from a local auto parts store and just get the lines from CJ Pony, or make your own lines.


    Z.

  • Brake Problem

    original proportioning valves are very prone to having pitted bores & a rebuild kit would be of no help in stopping a leak. They need a be rebuilt by a professional. J. Cowles of shelbyparts.com restored mine several years ago, & it never gave me any trouble after that.


    Z.


    p.s. you are lucky that you weren't on a crowded highway when you lost the last bit of fluid. Have you thought about a dual chamber master cylinder?

  • headers for 66 k code mustang

    I went thru 2 sets of Patriot Tri-y headers before I found a set that fit w/o "adjusting" . I got the nickel plated ones. Patriot headers are the least expensive, but mine have lasted about 8 years so far.


    Long tube headers are likely to reduce your low end power, so I would steer clear of them unless that is not a concern for you.


    I think J. Cowles at shelbyparts.com has the best tri-y headers but they are $995.00 a set.


    Z.

  • New behavior shifting into 3rd gear

    Quote from s2ms

    quote:

    quote:

    You are not using synthetic gear oil now are you? I understand from David Kee that the Toploaders don't really like synthetic oil and were not designed to run with it.


    http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com


    they certainly weren't designed for it as synthetics didn't exist back then, but...... When I mothballed my T-10 I put in a toploader that D. Kee had restored for me & initially used conventional gear oil. When it came time to change the trans. oil I decided to try Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil. It works fine for me. The warning from D. Kee states that it does work fine for some people, but not for others. The problem is supposed to be when shifting fast, the synthetic oil doesn't provide enough friction for the gear syncros to work properly. Apparently I'm so old I can't shift fast enough to induce this problem so I'm sticking with the synthetic oil for the reduced wear benefits.


    Z.Redline synthetic gear oils have different formulations for trannys than rear ends. The I've been using their MT-90, GL-4 spec, in my original close ratio T-10 for at least the last 15 years with great results. It has friction modifiers that allow for proper synchro function so (driver) age is not a factor. ;)


    http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7


    the Mobil 1 gear oil also has the friction modifiers that are necessary for limited slip rear ends. I have not had to add any additional friction modifier to make the rear end, a traction lock, to work properly.


    I don't know how that SPECIFICALLY makes it better, or not, for the older transmissions, But as I said earlier it is working OK for me.


    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…_75W-140LS.aspx


    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…e_75W-90LS.aspx


    Z.

  • New behavior shifting into 3rd gear

    Quote from 6hypo5conv

    You are not using synthetic gear oil now are you? I understand from David Kee that the Toploaders don't really like synthetic oil and were not designed to run with it.


    http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com


    they certainly weren't designed for it as synthetics didn't exist back then, but...... When I mothballed my T-10 I put in a toploader that D. Kee had restored for me & initially used conventional gear oil. When it came time to change the trans. oil I decided to try Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil. It works fine for me. The warning from D. Kee states that it does work fine for some people, but not for others. The problem is supposed to be when shifting fast, the synthetic oil doesn't provide enough friction for the gear syncros to work properly. Apparently I'm so old I can't shift fast enough to induce this problem so I'm sticking with the synthetic oil for the reduced wear benefits.


    Z.