Posts by zray

Quote from r.states

how hard is it to find the tail shaft?

many of the '66 GT-350's came from the factory with the iron tailshaft.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

is the wire going to Radio Supressor Condenser always hot?

mine (on a '66) has battery voltage even when car is off. Is this correct?

thanks,

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from imbett

I would like some help in how you can bench check as to working conditon of fuel temp amp alt guages .I hope someone can help

a C or D size battery can be used to safely check the AMP gauge. Connecting it one way will make the needle swing at least half way. Reverse the leads and it will make the gauge swing the other way.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from SPECIAL ED

I have always been a stickler on staying with the viscosity called out for by Ford. I feel uncomfortable going from 10w-30 to 15w-50 but I guess it is not a big deal. If that is what we need to do to get the ZDDP required then so be it. Someone set me straight on the viscosity thing. Thanks, Ed

a very small percentage of HP may be lost by using a heavier oil. However, for my needs, the higher ZDDP levels plus easy availabilty (of the Mobil 1 15W-50) outweighs the possible HP loss

Please chime in if there might be other negatives that I'm not aware of.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote

........ Would be great if we could all agree on which oil and possible additive is best for our hi-po's..... Thanks, Ed

The fact that we all are Hi-Po enthusiast says that we are also a rare breed of individualists, So much so that we will never all agree on which oil is best. The are many "right" choices

I'm still using Mobil 1 15W-50 for over 17,000 miles without measurable wear or leaks. it's formulated with higher levels of ZDDP needed by flat tappet engines.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…_1_15W-50_.aspx

".... Why are you reintroducing Mobil 1 15W-50? Have there been any changes to the formulation, or is it identical to the previous product?

Mobil 1 15W-50 is being reintroduced based on popular demand. Mobil 1 15W-50 provides higher viscosity, designed to provide extra protection for performance vehicles and vehicles that operate in severe service, such as towing, hauling and racing. Additionally, Mobil 1 15W-50 contains higher levels of anti-wear (ZDDP or Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate) that may be required for certain racing applications and camshaft designs. This is a new Mobil 1 15W-50 formulation and is not the same as the product that was marketed a few years ago. ......"

from: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…x#Mobil_1_FAQs3

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

price ?

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from Kman

My kar ran at just over 2,900 RPM at 60 mph when I was running the Styled Steel wheels with 195/75/14 redline radials. Runing 215/65/15 on 15" Torque Thrusts now and it is just about the same RPM. Never actually checked my gas mileage in the 11 years I have owned the car, but for sure it is much less than 20 mpg at highway speeds, probably closer to 15.

Jack

Several quick question: What year K is this on? what brand tires are you using ? Standard backspacing on the Torque Thrusts ? Did you have to roll the fenders?

thanks,

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from zray

quote:

Auction ended at $10,200 - reserve not met. I wonder what the reserve was?

crazy money, IMHO. Not worth that unless you were putting it back in the original car.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Doofus here !!

I was/am looking at a different auction: SHELBY ENGINE GT350 1966 V8 289 TRIPOWER, (#6R09K1778)

Item number: 180120280636

Quote from 66transam

Auction ended at $10,200 - reserve not met. I wonder what the reserve was?

crazy money, IMHO. Not worth that unless you were putting it back in the original car.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from RPM

If it sells and I'm surprised about the price,WOW you should contact the buyer and see if he wants to buy the flywheel as you'll save him some trouble!

I wouldn't be surprized to see it reach $ 5000 or more. Depends on what the bidders are looking for. If the original GT-350 is still around, having that engine (returned to stock specs) could increase the value of their car by $ 10,000 +/-. Anybody else is taking more of a gamble. Who knows what condition the heads or crank are in, or what the bore is, could be maxed out, and need to be resleeved.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote

........ and no flywheel. The lack of a flywheel will make it probable that the engine would need to be disassembled so that a flywheel could be balanced to match the rest of the assembly. I asked the man about the flywheel and he does not have it. ...........-Fred-

I bought the flywheel & clutch assembly from that engine, (and the top loader he had) from the same seller a while back. I got the people at SAAC talking to the guy to see if they could steer him to the current owner of the GT-350 the engine once came from. Seems like they would be the ones to really want the engine the most. Since it's on ebay now, I guess nothing came of those talks.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from Shelby6t5

I have detailed pix showing size and markings if you need them.

Mike

can you post those photos, or a link ?

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from 289kford

(resto)modifying a kar does not make it a rebody. repairing a kar does not make it a rebody. equating a new water pump (repair) or changing the paint, changing to dics brakes or rack and pinion (modify) to cutting the VIN out of a car so it can be replaced with the vin from a kar that no longer exists is ludicrous.

exactly. And publishing the VIN in question doesn't make it right either. If all you have is a title & a VIN cut out of an inner fender you could frame them & hang it on your wall. You'd have a real nice conversation piece without all the bother of fabricating an air car.

Z. Ray

Quote

.......... Just my 2 cents and we need to stop hammering people when they come to this site for help and questions! Thanks ! Ron

helping a re-body (scam) artist would be like passing out keys to your home at a burglars convention. just my 2 cents.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from brett1970

Since i seem to iritate the grouchy old men on this board so much, i guess i'll rub it in a little. I also have a K convertible title and tag as well. let the flames begin!!

you belong to the 1% of this hobby that makes it a pain for the other 99%. What goes around, comes around.

Good "luck" in your endevors.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from Shelby6t5

Update - found a minty-mint C4ZE Y2 W-MO 10-64 rad

still looking for 3939s or 3911 s and the KH steel rims

Mike

I'm interested in a set of 15" x 5 1/2" KH steel rims also. Anybody have a source ?

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote

........ Or would you remove whatever you could from the K code and combine it with the donor car and turn it into the K code using the K vin stamped inner fenders and title to document it as a K.......

so you can make a silk purse out of a sows ear after all.

No one is going to change camps on this issue. you either think you can turn s**it into shinola with only a title and VIN stamping to start with, or you are in the other camp, once a shell is toast, it's history. But it is entertaining to see all the different ways of expressing the the basic two opposing views.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote

In a perfect world, there would be no rebuilt/rebodied collector cars. .......... Anyone interested in buying an original K code or Shelby would get educated enough to know they what they are buying. Most people would not intentionally misrepresent or try to defraud anyone anyway.

sometimes the educational process is pretty expensive... or as they say, live, and learn

Z. Ray

"66 GT-350

Quote from 66gtk

How big of a job is it to swap out shifters? I do have a '65 Mustang with a great working Hurst shifter. Where can you get a properly rebuilt shifter? Seems like from reading the thread that some rebuild kits have the incorrect washers/parts.

Hurst rebuilds their own shifters, vintage & otherwise.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350

Quote from 289_HIPO

Did you honestly think someone here would say, "yeah that's fine" ??

LOL

Seriously, the way I see it, if you are only moving the vin, yeah that is a little hardcore. No original K code parts from the car that wore the vin. that's just a little wierd I guess and "feels" wrong although I guess technically it's not especially if you dont plan to sell it.

But I myself certainly do not agree with some of the statements I have read in this thread either. I feel like if you have an original K code mustang and it needed frame rails, floors and several other parts you had to replace anyway, what is the difference in using another mustang you also own. Hell, I have read so many posts (even here) that mustang restorers, especially K codes, factory GT's etc say explicitly you should buy a solid coupe for all your parts in your restoration....parts as in doors, deck lids, etc. so how is the floor and frame (aka body stuff) any different? im my opinion its not. but thats just my opinion. I have even seen in the hipo book some cars say "possible rebody"..come on, that means it was rebodied. And it is cool people took the high road and surrendered that info.

As long as you are able to use the majority of the original parts from the original car and you explicitly state what the car has undergone and it is not original any longer it is no different, unless you are doing all this just to sell it. just my 2cents.. Racool's post seemed to make the most sense to me.

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Re-reading my posts, I can see where they might look a little extreme. I've been screwed by the re-body thing once & the experience has hardened my feeling about the subject, Doing major rust repairs is one thing, nothing wrong with that, & I didn't mean to infer that there was. But when all you've got is a title and vin plate or stamping, and hope to turn that into a car, somebody is going to get the shaft on the deal, sooner or later.

Z. Ray

'66 GT-350