Posts by zray

zray · Vapor Locking ??? zray May 22, 2011 at 8:49 AM

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"................... Today I pulled the fuel filter and it had some sediment in it but not too terribly bad. However there was a fairly good amount of sediment in the bottom of the canister (maby a half a teaspoon) and it was mostly a dark brown power sith something mixed in that appeared to be brass shavings - not a lot but there none the less. Has anyone else experienced this and what did you do to fix it? Is what I describe from the dirty fuel filter or is it vapor locking?

Thanks

Jack

you have really answered your own question. ANY debris such as you describe indicate your ENTIRE fuel system is on need of examination and likely replacement. The most likely place to start is the fuel tank. Drain it and stick a mirror (on a telescoping rod) up into the tank from the sending unit hole. Even tanks that are fairly new can be rusty. I've seen brand new Mustang tanks that were covered with powdery rust inside.

If rust is found, don't waste your time trying to seal it. Buy a new tank, and new fuel lines.

Z.

zray · Radio lamp replacement - zray May 19, 2011 at 10:55 PM

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".................but it is becoming more difficult to find automotive miniature lights as more and more new cars are using LED or other types of lighting technology. A lot of auto parts stores are not carrying them due to limited demand. (why waste shelf space on a slow moving item?) so the suggestion to stock up when you can is probably a good one but not because of this law.

My 2 cents

so far all the NAPA stores around here (TX) have all the small bulbs in stock and available.

Z.

zray · Radio lamp replacement - zray May 18, 2011 at 10:25 PM

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"............... I would also recomend that you get a lot of spare bulbs before the end of the year because an act of a damndemocrat (yes, it is one word) congress made them illegal as of Jan 1, 2012.

Jim

as far as automotive bulbs go, at best, you are misinformed.

Z.

zray · Tri Y Mustang Headers zray May 15, 2011 at 2:14 PM

are they the Patriot brand. (nothing wrong with that). Some of them fit OK, other's needed some "adjustment". Guess all their welding jigs aren't the same. I'm currently using the nickel pllated Patriot tri-y's. They did fit OK, and have lasted 7 years so far.

Z.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 05/15/2011 14:15:40

zray · 5R07K102379 lost to fire zray May 14, 2011 at 7:37 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>"................ Not having a K car anymore, I no longer belong.............Scott

very very sorry about your misfortune, but I have to disagree with your conclusion that you don't belong. You spent 15 years working on that car and have a lot of knowledge and insight that you could share with those in need.

I know you are going thru the seven stages of grief right now (no joke) and your feelings are intense. But as you get some time and distance on the unfortunate event I hope you come to realize that you will always be welcome and needed at the Hi-Po forum.

Z. Ray

zray · Zoom Clutch Kit zray May 11, 2011 at 9:27 PM

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since installing our new CF clutch PP

from NPD

we have also noticed a look more pressure on the clutch pedal

one has to be careful when letting it out!!

iowa

everything else new ? hanger bushings, z bar bushings, etc. ? did you have the flywheel resurfaced ?

usually the centerforce clutches, even the dual friction one, are no more difficult to operate than the stock clutch, and often are easier.

when I was using the dual friction clutch the action was easy enough, but the engagement was sudden. So I had to let it out slowly to avoid a burn out. Is this what you are experienceing ? I attributed my "in-or-out" clutch to the fact that I neglected to have the flywheel resurfaced (supposed to be manditory). After a few hundred miles the action became less severe.

Z.

zray · Zoom Clutch Kit zray May 10, 2011 at 10:20 PM

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I bought one of the Zoom purple clutch setups for my first Hipo Mustang back in 1974 and it was so strong I could hardly push the pedal down, and it ended up breaking the Z bar.......

even the stock clutches were hard on the z bars. many reports in the SAAC registry of GT-350's still under warranty with bent z bars. And later on, once the bushings in the pedal hanger & those in in the z bar began to wear, the problem was even worse.

Z.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 05/10/2011 22:20:34

zray · 271 HP engines in Mercury Comets zray May 8, 2011 at 5:01 PM

here is a nice article for you. A google search of "Hi-Po engine in Mercury Comet" will give you plenty to read.

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/20…n_feature6.html

according to this article, a Hi-Po Mercury Comet Cyclone has not the special identifier letter in the VIN to show if the car came with a 271 HP engine, or not. One must rely on a build sheet.

Z.

zray · Trans oil leak zray May 2, 2011 at 3:47 PM

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"............ and refitted it back with RTV gasket sealant.

I will put back the oil that I took out and let you know what happens.

Thanks

Mark

Mark, if the RTV doesn't work I would try Hylomar. It's a great product, and British like yourself, originally developed by Rolls-Royce Plc Aerospace Division for sealing joints in jet turbine engines.

Over here it is sold under the Permatex label, I haven't found anything it won't seal. Never dries out either. Seals against leakage from gas, oil, hydraulic fluid, transmission fluid & coolant.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Autom…nge_Sealant.htm

http://www.hylomarsealant.com/index.html

On my '66 I've used it on the gas tank drain plug, rear end sealing around the troublesome leaking stud threads, engine gaskets, etc. I've been using it at work (motorcycle mechanic) sealing up leaky old (and new) Triumphs, Hondas, etc. Works every time.

Z.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 05/02/2011 15:47:50

zray · Rear End Noise zray May 1, 2011 at 5:05 PM

you took out the pumpkin and didn't change out the gears while everything was out ? Get ready to do it all over again. No magic fix for howling gears. Even some of the new aftermarket gears will whine. Ford Racing gears are pretty quiet though.

Z.

zray · intake and exhaust option for k-codes? zray May 1, 2011 at 9:49 AM

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Didn't the Shelby's also get the LeMans cam too??

no. Only the 1965 competition models, now commonly referred to as R models (race model GT-350's) received a different cam. It was the S1CR road racing camshaft. The heads were also reworked as well as other engine modifications. The competition models were dyno tested and measured between 325 and 360 horsepower with a single 4 barrel carb.

But they were few in number (only 36 were built). Street GT-350 cams were unchanged.

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........ or a different cam than the standard Hipo unit?

no. Shelby sold various cam over the counter. But they were not installed by Shelby in street '65 & '66 GT-350's.

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" Wasn't the hp on the Shelby's rated at 306?? ..........." <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

yes. increase over the Hi-Po advertised 271 HP was attributed to intake & exhaust system changes. No internal engine changes.

Z.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 05/01/2011 09:51:48

zray · oil additive for cam break in zray April 30, 2011 at 7:40 PM

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I know this topic has evolved. What is the latest consensus on an oil additive to prevent camshaft/lifter failure during initial engine start? Thank you, Paul.

most new cams come with a tube of installation lube like this:

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant…egory_Code=LUBE

that's all I've used.

Comp cams also sells a line of break-in oil & a break-in oil additive. Neither of which I've ever used, or see the need for. If youy do use either of those products be sure to change the oil filter along with the oil at 500 miles (which you should do anyway) because those products are loaded with graphite. an OK lubricant, but it does plug up oil filters pretty quickly.

Z.

zray · Clutch fork finish zray April 25, 2011 at 6:38 PM

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This is not the standard Ford bellhousing but rather the alum Shelby version. Don't have a Ford bellhousing here to compare.

Thanks Ray

are there any casting numbers on it ?

Z.

zray · Distributor Advance Setup zray April 23, 2011 at 8:16 AM

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Mark, Sounds like you need to send your Distributor to Chuck at Distributor Dynamics for a rebuild recalibrate......Chuck is the best on Ford Distributors...

a great fix for certain. Also you can get quality work done at:

http://428cobrajetcars.homestead.com/services.html

or at Jim Cowle's Shelby Parts & Restoration:

http://s247533021.onlinehome.us/catalog/rest.p…4d4b64571fc7614

Distributor (12127)

Disassemble, degrease, restore case, new points, new condensor, rotor & cap. $175.00 Add $45.00 for factory spec. blueprinting! Extra if major components need to be relaced.

But I would try a set of new advance springs first to see if that cured the problem. Cheaper and less down time. I remember seeing a source for the springs somewhere..... but don't recall where.

Z.

zray · Distributor Advance Setup zray April 22, 2011 at 7:34 PM

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Whats the best way to do this ?. Make up a degree tape and fix to the balancer or use an adjustable timing light.

What RPM is best to set max advance at - ie 3000, 3500 ??

Thanks

289 Hipo C5OF-E distributor curve

From the1966 Ford Shop manual & identically from the book Mustang & Ford Small Block V8 by Bob Mannel & Ford High Performance Booklet:

This is 289 Hipo C5OF-E distributor curve

The RPM & advancement is at distributor speed & not engine speed. To determine the engine's corresponding values both the RPM & advancement must be doubled.

Initial timing 12* BTDC

Total Advance 40*

650 RPM Centrifugal Advance 2 1/4* - 3 3/4*

750 RPM Centrifugal Advance 4* -5 1/2*

1000 RPM Centrifugal Advance 6 1/2* - 7 1/2*

1600 RPM Centrifugal Advance 7 1/2* - 8 3/4*

2000 RPM Centrifugal Advance 8 1/4* - 9 3/4*

L(limit) Centrifugal Advance 14*

With the aide for a timing light & timing tape you can check for correct distributor function."

in my experience, unless you have reason to suspect the advance unit is not operating properly I would dispense with the timing tape, etc. just set the initial timing at 12 degrees and observe that the timing advances when the engine is revved.

according to above chart, at actual engine rpm of 4000 the timing should be between 28.5 degrees and 31.5 degrees (add the 12 degrees initial timing & double the above numbers).

The factory (manual) does NOT state exactly when full advance should occur. But if you get 30 degrees (average of the timing spec) @ 4000 rpm) then you would think another 1000 rpm would get you the final 10 degrees of advance for a total of 40 degrees.

All that said, most people in the hot rod world expect all advance to be in by 3,500 - 4000 rpm, but not Ford apparently. I expect they are trying to be conservative, as timing that advances too quickly will result in detonation.

Z.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 04/22/2011 20:25:43

zray · Distributor Advance Setup zray April 22, 2011 at 8:56 AM

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What advance setup do you guys like for street use on a K-Code engine that will not see much use above 6000RPM? Would an initial setting of 12° with 24° centrifugal advance (giving 36° total) be good? The engine is stock but built to much better tolerance and balance standards than the production line.

Thanks…

no reason not to go with 40 degrees total advance unless your premium gas isn't high quality. If your cent. advance won't give you 28 degrees like the Hi-Po dist. would, I would start off with more initial advance (15 to 16 degrees) to give you the 40 degree total.

Z.

zray · Running in oil zray April 12, 2011 at 7:17 PM

[/quote]

Thanks

My reasoning for the 30 wt oil is that it is a special running in oil to help the piston rings bed in properly.

[/quote]

in that case I would do without the additive.

Z

zray · Running in oil zray April 12, 2011 at 7:13 PM

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Zray, back when you broke in your engine, the critical breakin additive, ZDDP was in motor oils. .

I have broken in numerous flat tappet (non roller engines) engines in the interim using Mobil 1 15w-50. (289's. 302's & a 351. water cooled, and Triumph, Honda & Kawasaki air cooled engines. No issues with rings seating, leaks or any other problems.

Oh no ! Synthetic oil as a break in oil? Is he crazy ????

Maybe. But it works for me. I am interested in reducing wear, and sythetic oil is far superior to dino oil in that reguard. Many brand new cars come with synthetic oil from the factory & have zero problems with "break-in". Dino oil is for dinoaurs as far I'm concerned.

Z.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 04/12/2011 21:22:46

zray · Running in oil zray April 11, 2011 at 8:00 PM

what is your thinking in wanting to use a straight 30 wt. oil as opposed to a multi viscosity oil like a 5w-30 or a 10w-30 ?

the multi viscosity oil will flow better while the motor is cold, which is when most of wear occurs.

as far as the break-in additive goes, I would leave it in for no more than 250 to 500 miles, and try to get those miles driven in a short time period. Then be sure to change the filter when you change the oil.

Many, if not all, break in additives contain graphite. It can make your oil filter much less effective (plugs it up) and should not be used when normal oil & filter changes intervals (3000+ miles) are employed.

I don't think a break in additive is necessary. Just my subjective opinion. When my engine was overhauled 43,000 miles ago there was a liberal amount of assembly lube put on the cam and lifters. Otherwise, no additives in the oil.

Z.

p.s. nice looking engine by the way.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 04/11/2011 20:04:41

zray · Where are the Koupes??? zray April 7, 2011 at 11:31 PM

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Where can I get a hipo motor and transmission for $3500?

put me down for one of those too...

Z.