Posts by zray

    Quote from 66gtk

    Does anybody have any experience understanding the difference between one of the Pony Carb "clones" and the real deal? As far as functionality, are they identical? What are the appearance differences? I'm considering purchasing one and don't want to regret it. My car will never be a concours show car, but I do want things to be as correct as possible without spending a fortune. It's a driver. Currently has a Holley, which is easily detected as incorrect.


    Thanks,

    Troy


    As far as function goes, they are identical. They have the same size venturies (1.12 ) & the same jetting. I used one for several years in my '66 GT-350, & was pleased with the carb's performance, and appearance.


    There is a cast in boss for the manual choke stop on the Hi-Po carb that is missing from the cloned version. It's obvious if you know what to look for, but not a distraction otherwise.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from gtinsf

    Is there an easy way to at least see part of the VIN that's stamped under the passenger side fender on a Mustang? Maybe loosening some of the bolts on the fender will gain enough room to shine a flashlight in there? Or does the outer fender absolutely have to come off to see the VIN stamp?


    Thanks

    Steve


    you can try to make a tracing from underneath. Otherwise all the bolts have to come out and the fender pulled forward & to the side a couple of inches.


    Z. Ray


    it's NOT LEGAL over here either!!!!


    ebay prohibits (bans) the listings of : "offering a title without a vehicle" and "Vehicle Identification (VIN) Plates" both of which are in this listing .


    I hate these @***$%%$ crooks.


    http://pages.ebay.com/help/contact_u…em=200139837098


    select subtopic : ebay motors or vehile related

    select: Prohibited (banned) items


    ebay seems to rely on people reporting these listings instead of having software or personel to stop them from ever being listed.


    I notified them of the listing of banned items. We'll see if it is removed.


    Z. Ray


    the auction was never pulled. Winning bid $1913.00


    figures...


    Z. Ray

    Quote from Belmont

    K's are not the only rebody candidates... check this out :


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200139837098&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=010</p><p>
    </p><p>


    I still don't understand how this can be legal. Over here, there is no way anything like this could happen.


    it's NOT LEGAL over here either!!!!


    ebay prohibits (bans) the listings of : "offering a title without a vehicle" and "Vehicle Identification (VIN) Plates" both of which are in this listing .


    I hate these @***$%%$ crooks.


    http://pages.ebay.com/help/contact_u…em=200139837098


    select subtopic : ebay motors or vehile related

    select: Prohibited (banned) items


    ebay seems to rely on people reporting these listings instead of having software or personel to stop them from ever being listed.


    I notified them of the listing of banned items. We'll see if it is removed.


    Z. Ray

    Quote

    .............Quite a few people went and looked at that car three decades ago and it was pretty well known there was nothing left to salvage but the VIN plate and a hood. Today it is a high dollar never been damaged “original”.


    Think what you want but to me that car is a replica at best and somebody paid over $300,000 for a car that ended its existence around 30 years ago. And there are people that don’t believe in reincarnation.


    great story, now lets have the serial number.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from round2K

    I had an early Cobra set-up back in the late '70's with 48 IDAs. You have to get the venturi size and the jetting in the ballpark before you ever put them on. You also have dial in the fuel supply to the appropriate pressure. Once you have those two items solved you need to spend time on a chassis dyno with someone who knows the carbs to get them properly jetted. I owned an auto shop at the time and had a Clayton chassis dyno so I was able to do my own, but it took many hours to get them right. Also, recognize that they are fundamentally racing carburetors and are not street, or low rpm, friendly. One last thing; before you ever start the carburetor process make sure your ignition system is dialed in and you have a decent curve in the distributor.


    http://www.inglese.com/


    Thank for the info, one question; did they stay in tune fairly well?


    One fellow I've spoken to who is currently running a 48 IDA's on his GT-350 race car, says he has great low end, idle at 700 rpm, etc. Other tell me to go for 44 or 48 IDF's. As they are more street-able.


    I think I've got the ignition system (MSD) and exhaust system (2.5 inch MagaFlo) well sorted out. I've got the original Cobra intake on the engine now with a 1967 date coded 715 cfm Holley. Everything is running about the best it ever has. I'm probably crazy to change anything. But I think I'd enjoy the challenge of getting a Weber set-up just right. I have a few decades experience with multiple carburation (motorcycles), so I think I'm ready fora little experimentation. I did run the vintage Paxton for a couple of years, and I'm torn between the unknown Weber induction & returning to the familiar Paxton supercharger.


    Z. Ray

    I'm considering putting a Weber carb induction on my GT-350. I really would like to gather some "real life" experiences beforehand from those who have gone down this path. Anyone who has had personal experiences with this type of set-up, good or bad, please get in touch with me. I am particularly interested in:

    1) direct comparisons between the IDA and IDF systems

    2) comparisons between the original Cobra parallel manifold type and the the newer "mirror image carb mounting" type of manifold.

    3) experiences on small blocks, specifically 289 Hi-Po engines with more or less stock internals.


    Z. Ray

    zrichter@austin.rr.com

    Quote

    ........ Hopin to have it all done by April 15th, I plan on taking it to world ford challenge in Indianapolis in May......


    how did it all turn out ? Can you post any info on the Weber set-up ? Who was the vendor, etc. How much time did it take to get them in the state of tune you wanted?


    Z. Ray

    Quote from duke96

    ok i finally got my car running and the exhaust is all on. but now i have no idea what i should be running for timing. i have the hipo mech dizzy, roller rockers, solid lifters, dual valve springs, slightly higher compression, with a mild cam. i am having trouble getting the car to idle when started, but after it reaches running temp it idles high around 1100-1200 (guesstamate no tach). sometimes after i turn it off after driving the motor will cough once or twice. i tried to time it myself but i need more info from people who have these cars. oh and right now i am running 16 degrees advanced, with a dual feed 750 holley (i know its prob way overkill) . thanks again for all the help all you give me.

    Duke


    first, make sure the timing marks have not slipped. Turn the dampner to indicated TDC and make sure the # 1 piston is at the top of it's stroke. Second, ck. the timing at 900 or less RPM. It should be 6 degres BTDC. Third, adjust the idle circut on the Holley. A vac. gauge will help.


    Z. Ray

    '66 GT-350


    if you're asking if the repro will pass foe an original, no it won't. But they are made well, even so, I covered mine up with a wheelskin leather cover. More because I need the extra grip the cover provided ( arthritus ) than any other reason.


    There are restorers out there that can restore an original wheel. Bill Herndon comes to mind ( Bill Herndon 301-977-0309 Maryland )


    A properly restored wheel looks superior to the reproductions IMHO.


    Z. Ray

    '66 GT-350

    Quote from round2K

    I don't consider Shelbys to be K codes; they are Shelby American cars. They may have started with a special order version of a K on their way to becoming Shelbys, but they ceased being K codes when the VINs were covered with Shelby American VINs. If a car doesn't have a K code VIN it's not a K code.


    Very well put. And although, therefore, I don't have a K code, I treasure the knowledge published on this site by those who do own one.


    Many thanks,


    Z. Ray

    '66 GT-350

    Quote from map351

    quote:

    It it's not a K how can it be correct according to experts?


    I restored a 66 Hertz car for Fran Kress and found a interesting fact. When Fran was in the process of buying car i lifted the Shelby VIN plate to make sure the chassis had the correct ford VIN # under the plate. And to my surprise it was a C code car i contacted SAAC and the verified it was the correct Ford Vin for that Hertz car. I also know of a T code Shelby and verified by the experts. There's a few more Shelby's that are Not K cars but are the correct cars & VIN # . I understand there's a double stamp C&T code and a few A code Shelby around here too..

    Who said all Shelby's were K cars! Don't believe everything you read...


    As the story goes The assembly plant was short on K chassis and the Old Man needed cars so they sent what fastbacks they had...


    here is an email I received from the '65 - '66 Shelby registrar:


    ".........Z.


    The rumor is basically incorrect. There has only been one '66 GT350 that had a "C" code in the chassis with the correct last 6 digits of the Ford serial number. The engine serial number was stamped correctly as a "K". It was simply a chassis stamping error on the assembly line. The car is perfect in all other details. All of the rest of the claims have been BS.


    Howard

    ******************************************************

    On Jul 17, 2007, at 2:50 PM, Z. Ray wrote:


    Dear Mr. Pardee,


    Is there any truth to the latest internet rumor that not all '65 & '66 GT-350's were K codes ?


    thanks,


    Z. Ray ....."


    so there you have it, from the only expert that matters.


    Z. Ray

    '66 GT-350

    Quote from map351

    quote:

    It it's not a K how can it be correct according to experts?


    I restored a 66 Hertz car for Fran Kress and found a interesting fact. When Fran was in the process of buying car i lifted the Shelby VIN plate to make sure the chassis had the correct ford VIN # under the plate. And to my surprise it was a C code car i contacted SAAC and the verified it was the correct Ford Vin for that Hertz car. I also know of a T code Shelby and verified by the experts. There's a few more Shelby's that are Not K cars but are the correct cars & VIN # . I understand there's a double stamp C&T code and a few A code Shelby around here too..

    Who said all Shelby's were K cars! Don't believe everything you read...


    As the story goes The assembly plant was short on K chassis and the Old Man needed cars so they sent what fastbacks they had...


    that's not what you claimed. you first said not all Hi-Po's were K codes. Now you're saying not all Shelby GT-350's were K codes.


    Two different claims.


    Z. Ray

    '66 GT-350

    (also a K code)

    Quote

    ..........

    No such animal as 1/2 M-series and 1/2 plain jane cast iron... at that point, conversation was over.......

    rick


    1997 SAAC Registry, page 431...


    "Transmission (1966): Standard on the early cars was the Borg Warner T-10-M with close ratio gears and aluminum case and rear housing. By mid-production, cars received aluminum cases and cast iron rear housings or cast iron cases with aluminum rear housings. After approx. car #1500, most cars received transmissions with a cast iron case and rear housing. Optional transmission was the Ford C-4 high performance automatic."


    So you see, during the 1966 production run of GT-350's, every possible combination of aluminum & iron cases was used in the T-10-M transmissions from the factory. All would be considered concours correct depending on which was originally installed.


    My serial number is 1117, and has the original Borg Warner T-10-M with an aluminum case and iron rear housing, as delivered from the factory.


    Z. Ray

    '66 GT-350

    Quote

    ....... Do you have a wiring schematic?


    according to wiring diagram I have, it's always hot via a connection at the hot post of the solenoid.

    for some reason, it just struct me as back-assward that it should be hot all the time.


    on to the next mystery,


    thanks,


    Z. Ray

    '66 GT-350