Posts by zray

Quote from garymcgowan

I have a vintage 1966 Hurst shifter on my car now with the Hurst handle(stick) and knob. I also have the complete original Ford shifter that came with my car. If I understand what is being said, It is the actual shifter head that is modified so I would have to buy a new head assembly from David and use my original shift handle and knob, correct?

Gary

you would be using the Ford shifter handle & round knob. However the Ford knob has reverse over and down. THe hurst shifter puts reverase over & up. Kee does sell a knob that looks exactly like the Ford knob but with the correct (Hurst) pattern engraved on it.

Z. Ray

good to hear how it turned out.

Z. Ray

Quote from toffe

Pertronix reccomends to increase gap by .005 compared to stock.

What is stock gap on a normal HiPo?

Hi-Po 289 .028 to .032 per Ford Mustang Shop manual

all other 289 .032 to .036 per Ford Mustang Shop manual

Z. Ray

Quote from toffe

I have just changed to pertronix ignitor and their black coil.

Can anoyone reccomend me a good spark plug for this set up?

Autolite 45

Z. Ray

Quote from 66gtk

'cuz the first 2 went BAD! What a time waster - I also replaced the battery cables - but that alone did not do the trick, either.

I hope you could return those bad parts for some credit. That can get expensive otherwise.

Z. Ray

OK, I'll bite. why did it take three solenoids to fix the problem?

Z. Ray

Quote from SJ65K

I saw a nice 65 GT Conv sell at Silver Auction in Reno during Hot August Nights 2 weeks ago for the high price of 67.5K. This was not a K, but just a nicely restored GT, and not as nice as the one Charles sold a few years ago at Scottsdale. It was nice to see Mustangs may be holding their values in this economy.

Rare, high end and/or high quality cars of many makes are holding steady. However, the merely "nice" cars are going for much less, or not selling at all. Craigslist & ebay are loaded with bargins these days, and many aren't getting ANY bids. People have been using their home equity to generate loans in the past, that's over for now at least.

Z. Ray

http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/804531547.html

SISSY-K

saw these today, had to laugh. any TX K owners looking for vintage plates might consider these, (although they are 1968)

Z. Ray

good luck with your new direction. That 44 IDF price is pretty tempting, I wish the 48's weren't another grand. Let us know how it goes. BTW, the regular 48 IDA's will also fit under the stock Shelby hood, even with the air cleaners.

Z. Ray

I wish their website would have listed the zinc levels somewhere.

Z. Ray

Quote from Noser

Anybody have some tips on adjusting valve lash?

How often does one have to do this on a solid lifter engine?

Thanks.

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…ue&TOPIC_ID=579

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…e&TOPIC_ID=3309

Z. Ray

yes, it was out of the car. So I can't be much help with the difficulty question. Do you have a lift? I'm pretty sure it can be done with the transmission in the car, but laying on your back under a car on jack stands is never that easy.

Z. Ray

Quote from RalphJr

I've got 2 - my original from mid April '65 - short length - and a longer version from an August/Spet "A" code '66 - neither one has any numbers - just a very small logo on the very tip where it goes thru the fan.

same with mine

Z. Ray

Quote from Kman

Anyone have any experience with the David Kee Hurst shifter setup that uses the original style shifter lever? My original shifter is getting to the point that a rebuild would probably be a good idea and I do really like the idea of having a Hurst and still maintaining the original look in the car.

Jack

I'm using it. I put my restored T-10 on a stand & am using a toploader (so I can thrash it) with Hurst shifter w/ D. Kee's adaptor. The shifter adaptor has the right angle built into it so the shifter lever has the same curve to it. So It looks to be in the same place as the Ford shifter. It seemed a little pricey when I bought it, but I'm enjoying it so much that now I realize it was good deal, all things considered.

do you have any idea how long the current engine has been in the car? 20 yrs, 30 yrs. ? At least the current engine has some history with your car. I'd keep it. I don't think a different engine is going to add to value of your car significantly.

Z. Ray

Fred,

You are going to go to Hi-Po heaven for all the work you have done just on this one project alone !

Even though I don't have a pump that I could've sent you for rebuilding, I still want to commend you for helping to keep all these cars on the road & in original condition.

Z. Ray

Quote from round2K

I had a 48 IDA Cobra set up once and by the time I got done buying dyno time, venturis, and jets I needed to take out a second mortgage:)

listen to this man.

Z. Ray

Quote

...........If you have the smaller combustion chamber AFR 165 heads, then you are limited by boost, unless you are running dished blower pistons. ........

The stock Hi-Po heads & the smaller combustion chamber AFR 165 heads will both be fine with stock Hi-Po compression pistons (10:1) and the vintage Paxton supercharger combo. The vintage Paxton will only produce 6 or 7 lbs. of boost at 6500 rpm, even with a smaller pulley. Now the modern Paxton superchargers are different story.

Quote from 65GT350

289kford- that injection setup is something! Looks just like Webers, the price stings though, double what Webers are. So a new 48IDA Weber setup isn't exactly something I can pull out of the box, tune and drive? The car runs good now and we want to keep it reliable. Thanks,

-Greg

if you have to ask that question, do not get Webers. No matter what the vendors tell you about the "plug & play" of their product, Webers will likely take a substantial amount of tuning, preferably on a dyno with wideband a/f capability.

Also, after reading your original post more closely, I see you do not want to change out the cam currently installed. Webers will not tolerate a cam with much overlap. With such a cam they will end up spewing much of the intake charge back out the venturies and run like sh*t.

Z. Ray.

as others have noted, there is no subsitute for the eye appeal of Webber's.

When I was considering going that way I had several conversations with a guy who had tried both the Webber's and a vintage Paxton on his GT-350 in a vintage racer environment. His verdict was the Webbers were nice to look at, but if raw horsepower was your goal, go with the Paxton. Plus the Paxton will work better with a wider variety of cams. That said, he is, or was, still using the Webers on his racer (vintage racing isn't just about maximum horsepower).

Z. Ray